[shark]

oh almost forgot my most important short-term goal of ranking above shark on the 8a.nu routes table

I suddenly seem to have regained my motivation. Kalymnos here I come..

[JamesD]

Sunday my bottom went into overdrive, this is an ongoing situation. Sounds like a tip for weight loss Shark if you're interested?

I'll pass on that...

I once had a weight loss competition with a lodger - a chocoholic pharmacist. She resorted to laxatives to win until I cried 'foul'.

Some interesting examples of structural permanent weight loss. Keith Sharples 'permanently' lost a few kilos following a stomach bug in Thailand and Lance Armstrong famously came out of chemo after hormone replacement therapy (steroid therapy) with a different leaner body shape.

Fixed 

[Stubbs]

Aims:
Be the best climber in Suffolk
Regularly burn off Cockerneys at the Westway
Zoo York
Do some planning to get in good shape for Magic Wood trip in summer

M: Still a bit tired from Font, about 50 pullups
T: Beastmaker, slopers, dragging and pockets
W: Beastmaker as above
T: Nowt climbing wise
F: Drive to Leeds, drink some cider and Whiskey
S: Raining (booo) Depot (yay!) did ok. Lack of steep wall climbing showed but fingers felt good. Thai food and lots of booze.
S: Drive to London away from beautiful weather. Go for a nice walk.

No mid week drinking, but too much at the weekend. Feeling improvements on the Beastmaker, think I'll prioritise that for a few more weeks.

[Fiend]

Goals:
Climb on something other than bloody Central Highlands schist.
Find someone to actually go climbing with over the easter week.

This week:
Mon - 10 minute run (5/1/5), tired and hungry, theraband + stretching.
Tue - n/a
Wed - n/a / very reluctantly join FuckingCuntBook to try to solidify climbing contacts.
Thu - n/a
Fri - 2 hours hard thin bouldering, no upward progress but good training I guess, finger okay / 15 min run (5/1/5/1/5), hard but managed it / theraband and stretching.
Sat - 1 good trad lead, 1 hour hard dogging, finger sore from pressure in pocket and then thin moves, shoulder fine / theraband and stretching.
Sun - n/a / theraband and stretching / pancakes / coffee.

Comments
A very mixed week that was initially dismal. My mood is consistently low at the moment which makes it hard to do much let alone train well on my own. Things obviously improved at the weekend, I'm consolidating trad fine which is nice, I just want to apply it to some more exciting places. My finger is still problematic, much more so with pressure on it than with actually crimping. I will have to be more diligent. Shoulder still gets achey from sleeping on it funny (poor mood - poor sleep) rather than climbing, but the theraband is helping.

[webbo]

STG
recover from back injury
LTG
not have a back injury
Mon beastmaker repeaters 2x 5 diffrent grips
Tue drank beer
Wed bouldering rockcity climbed ok to say i've not climbed for over 2 weeks.a bit anxious jumping off.
Thu drank wine
Fri short session rockcity repeated everything i did wednesday and worked a couple of harder things.
Sat leeds wall on way to visit my mother. flashed most of the stuff i'd done 3 weeks ago.so quite pleased.
Sun cycling 3 hours 10 mins.i've been lent a bike to try by rockcity.one of only a handle of lapierre road bikes in the uk.got a bit carried away drafting a tractor backed off when my heart rate hit 187.
back now feels ok still doing lots of stretching.

[roddersm]

2010 Goals:

Trad: Onsight lots of E2s (including left wall if i get to wales), several E3s and possibly a couple of E4s, Boulder 7a+/b , sport onsight 7a (spain). Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.

Mon  Running 48 min approx about 5.7 miles
Tue   Climbing wall sesson 1.5 hrs bouldering and some stamina circuits       
Wed  Bouldering at Fairhead 3hrs or so- did a few laps on a 5c and a 6c and sieged a hard 7a and fucked up my finger
Thur  Rested: depressed for fucking up finger.
Fri     Ran 48min approx: about 5.7 miles
Sat    Ran 1 hr 8 min 8.5 miles; Watched ireland loose to scotland in rugby and drank beer.
Sun   Did tommy caldwell workout 20 min (sets of 5 pullups, 10 push ups, 15 sit ups with no rest) managed 11 sets and almost die. Go running 44 min about 5.2 miles. Some stretches.     

[Adam Lincoln]

Are you still keeping the weight off ? Any tips on how to stay motivated ?

Well i let it all go back on in the New Year so i could train heavy. It's coming off a bit now though. Going to keep it at 10st 7 for a while as that is easy to maintain. If needs be i can shed more for hard projects.

[Doylo]

Are you still keeping the weight off ? Any tips on how to stay motivated ?

Well i let it all go back on in the New Year so i could train heavy. It's coming off a bit now though. Going to keep it at 10st 7 for a while as that is easy to maintain. If needs be i can shed more for hard projects.

As Lincoln says the best way to stay motivated to lose a bit of weight is not to do it all year. If you have to suffer a bit of short term torture to get some good ticks then its a lot easier to shun that chocolate eclair. Trying to maintain a below average (for yourself) weight just makes you miserable and your body soon adapts to its usual strength anyway. Everytime you fancy soemthing a bit naughty just imagine getting to the end of that project and the elation you will feel when you get there.

[shark]

Good advice - I can incorporate with a seasonal plan:

Dec/Jan/Feb     Brrr..too cold/wet: Train like your hair's on fire
Mar/Apr/May    Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes
Jun/Jul/Aug      Too warm/humid: Train like your hair's on fire
Sept/Oct/Nov   Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes

...and repeat for 10 years

[BB]

STG get the knee back to normal following the op.
Goals for the year: another f7a, an E1 and a 7A.

M - knee exercises followed by 40 mins gentle traversing and some light bouldering at Swindon
T - Knee Exercises
W - Physio on the knee in the hydro-pool followed by 40 mins gentle traversing and some light bouldering at Swindon
T - Knee Exercises
F - knee exercises followed  by 40 mins gentle traversing and some light bouldering at Swindon
S - rest
S - slightly more intensive Bouldering at TCA

The knee feels good and I've already cycled the 2 miles to work and back twice this week on the single speed. Desperately trying to get the strength back for April long weekend in the Ariege.

[Doylo]

yeh and make sure you eat lots of cheescake in the 'train like your hairs on fire' periods

[lagerstarfish]

M - sick
T - sick
W - sickish; out on grit, climbed like shit, skin like baggy tissue paper due to dehydration
Th - aching joints and sore skin
F - coffee and croissant for breakfast, got 1000 words closer to Nobel prize, steak and eggs for lunch and then took baby and travel cot to trackside boulder for a quick circuit
S/Su - monopoly, cycling, wrestling

forgot to add

weight 14st 5lb

body fat 29% 
below 30% for the first time in 2 years (peak was a scary 38%)

[andybfreeman]

Th – planed to rest but decided to do a proper Caldwell 20 min session (5 pull ups, 10 press ups, 15 sit ups repeat with no rest until the buzzer goes) made it through did maybe 30 mini-sets

Are we permitted any kind of warm-up before the Caldwell sets? For the less-young, it sounds to me like a perfect recipe for badly buggered elbows?

not sure what's allowed but after wrecking myself last thursday i reckon some form of warm up might by a good idea!
i'm tempted by the mcginley routine that stevie haston mentioned in climb as an alternative - 1 pull up, 3 press ups, 2 pull ups 6 press ups, continue to 10 pull ups and 30 press ups, as that seems to have an element of warm up built in

[Norton Sharley]

Good advice - I can incorporate with a seasonal plan:

Dec/Jan/Feb     Brrr..too cold/wet: Train like your hair's on fire
Mar/Apr/May    Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes
Jun/Jul/Aug      Too warm/humid: Train like your hair's on fire
Sept/Oct/Nov   Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes

...and repeat for 10 years

Where or what are Diet & Crush routes?  Is that like short routes for people who can't do the full power versions?

[SA Chris]

Groundhog week! Goals blah blah

M - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Dug dumbells out and did some bicep curls.
T - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Did some rows.
W - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Did some things with dumbell behind head (no idea of name) until triceps hurt. weekly with in - 14st 3/4 lb - NNFN - alarm bells.
T -  Car in garage, got bus. - did some bicep curls.
F - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Did a bit of therabanding.
S - did a bit of work about house. started feeling dodgy.
S - felt like crap, eye of needle bug. Did some gargening and then lay down and slept. Bugger.

[shark]

Good advice - I can incorporate with a seasonal plan:

Dec/Jan/Feb     Brrr..too cold/wet: Train like your hair's on fire
Mar/Apr/May    Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes
Jun/Jul/Aug      Too warm/humid: Train like your hair's on fire
Sept/Oct/Nov   Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes

...and repeat for 10 years

Where or what are Diet & Crush routes?  Is that like short routes for people who can't do the full power versions?

As opposed to routes for short people who can !

Come on its time for you to post and boast otherwise I'm outing you...

[duncan]

Thanks for the nudge Simon

STG: E3 / climb El Cap.
LTG: E5

M - Shoulder stability stuff.
T - Shoulder stability stuff.
W - 7 mins. x F5 warm-up. 
T - Shoulder stability stuff.
F - Collapsed in a heap (see other news)
S - Shoulder stability stuff.
S - Climbing partner cancelled so... 9 mins. x F5 warm-up. 

In other news, I submitted my PhD thesis, my PhD supervisor was made redundant (no connection, I think...) and my other research collaborator in the department was forced into early retirement.  Quite hard to focus on training with all this going on.

[mark s]

Summer goals-do some upper french 7's again.
Also get some fitness in the bag for some of the dovedale classics this summer.
Mon-wall,stamina
Tue-wall,fast up and down circuit
Wed-roaches for a potter
Thur wall,steady mess around.
Fri,nothin
Sat cwif,more of a social and bit of a mess around.didn't even pull on most probs.cracking day out tho.
Sun-roaches for a play around with andi.

[Monolith]

Monday - Uni
Tuesday - Uni
Weds - Uni
Thursday - Got up at 6am, ran til 6.35, then hit fingerboard hard for 40 mins and finished with 100 crunches and a butt load of press ups. Got to uni for 8.45 and had a very productive way. Realised this has to be the antidote to avoid feeling tired in evenings and getting home too late to train.
Friday- Uni
Saturday - Felt sore.
Sunday - Played 80 min 11 a side football with 6 min half time. This was exhausting but we stuffed the toffs from the department in a 4-3 victory. Played left back and put in some proud tackles. Thought of Kuyt as my work ethic inspiration all game. Playing again soon.

A good week. Worked out it has to be early doors training which then sets me up for getting into studio before other s arrive and distract. Off out 6am again tomorrow. Must get on project asap...

[Charles]

Belated posting and struggling to remember what I did last week due to 4 days in Prague this week (its tapering - honest).

Short term goal: Climb 7a every day on Font trip (End of March)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Get fit for Mallorca > Powerband (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Monday - Climbing Works. Felt weak and rubbish.
Tuesday - Matrix.
Wednesday - Worked
Thursday - Matrix. Really good session. Did 10 problems at 7a or above including a 7b+. Went out for a couple of drinks. Got carried away.
Friday - Complete write off. Remember getting a taxi door opened on to my left hand. Said hand now swollen.
Saturday - Try to play on basement board. Left hand feels weak and painful and swollen. Rest and Ice.
Sunday - Day one of Prague. General debauchery.

Was slightly annoyed that I couldn't train Friday and Saturday as it meant extended lay off time. Hopefully I won't have got too fat from Prague and the week rest will do me good before Font on the 27th!

[richdraws]

Weight - 76kg up by 2kg in a week!
Goal weight - 70kg
Boulder 7c+
Do some sport climbing

Mon- Lunch gym session. 2x Javorak DB complex No1. 2x Javorek wrist exercises. 3sets of 2rep deadlifts with 160kg.
Tue- Fingerboard mostly unweighted and campus stuff.
Wed- sat on train to London drinking alcohol with work mates. Went out in London drinking.
Thur - 8 hours of Hangover sat in a cinema learning the finer points of animation from some nice geek from pixar. Followed by Italian and drinking.
Friday - 6 hours of Hangover sat in a cinema learning the finer points of sotry/character development from some less interesting Pixar geek. followed by drinking and a train home.
Sat -right off but managed a bit of fingerboarding
Sun - Went to Stanage planning to do get some technique back doing problems I have done previously and do some mantles and topping out! Did the mantle/straight up on green trav, did cpt hook (the top out felt the hardest part), a few other bits and bobs then thought I would get on Brad Pitt. 1st go matched on ramp set for top - fall, 2nd go same. 3rd go couldnt get off the deck but stupidly kept trying for 30 mins. Watched a strong frenchy flash it and a few other strong frenchies not flashing it at all. Went home pleased and skinned.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Cheers for the nudge Simon, no idea where this week's gone

Goals: F7c this year, Font 7B again, F8a before 2014, recover from current injury.

M: Nowt
T: Physio - Got new excercise plan... Said my upper bod's well strong (but lets face it any climber is probably stronger than the grannies they mostly see) but my legs and core are somewhat lacking.. So play to my (meagre) strengths and Campus and Fingerboard  @ The Works:
13531351 x 4 (big rungs) leading alternate arms, 14141 x 4 (middle rungs) leading alternate arms, 1434343 x 4 (middle rungs) leading alternate arms. Repeaters + 5kg on slopes, Encores + 5kg half crimp, Encores + 5kg front 3, Repeaters + 5kg front 2 on pockets, Repeaters + 5kg mid 2 on pockets. Assisted 1 arm hangs on 2nd smallest campus rung x 6 alternate arms - 18kg - DDDDestroyed!
W: Did new core and physio excercises - OMG!! Double destroyed!
T: Resumed building on woodie..... 3 panels to go!
F: Nowt
S: Dranks booze and ate cakes.
S: Went to Caley, did zigzag crack and pine tree arete... Not done either before so was nice. Good to see how hooking with the right leg held up on the arete - all moving in the right direction.

All good... Font is looming so just gotta keep on keeping on.

:D

[Jim]

wow, you lot go climbing a lot.

weight at start of week=90kg
stated diet thursday properly
currently tipping the scales at 88.5kg so showing some improvement despite being called a pregnant horse!
Target weight<80kg

tues-light garage session, good to get back in there. really enjoyed it
wed-cave, good session. need to get some fitness & strength back.

hopefully get the ladder up tonight & tomorrow night for some reps

[shark]

Jim's in.. 

[Jim]

ladder session tonight - epic fail
hopefully tomorrow night