Huntsham Crag, Wye Valley (Read 23346 times)

Bobling · February 10, 2010, 11:23:18 am

Can anyone give me any advice on the access for this area? BMC says (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=920...)

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

It is claimed that the area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. "

grimer · February 10, 2010, 12:16:55 pm

I met the gamekeeper there one time and he said the crags were indeed banned, although they were turning a blind eye to the use of the boulders that lie near the main path (although not the ones down near the river).

Bobling · February 10, 2010, 01:00:44 pm

I have not been yet but am thinking about dropping in this Friday afternoon, so in terms of the problems in this topo here http://www.esotericbouldering.com/wales/huntsman.pdf, do you think I'm likely to get shotgun waving "get orf my land?"

TomP · February 10, 2010, 03:28:54 pm

This used to be my local crag before I moved to Leeds. There never used to be any issue surrounding access and as far as I know all the regulars still boulder there. That's a real shame if there are access issues.

You should be fine where all the good bouldering is (Slug Boulder etc and boulders near the main path).

nic mullin · February 10, 2010, 05:56:11 pm

I'd heard about this and have been there a few times since and had no problems. I've heard roumours of people being asked to leave, but haven't heard of anything arsey/aggressive, so I'd just turn up and if anybody challenges you, apologise, say you didn't know and see what happens.

KH · February 11, 2010, 01:10:32 am

I was there in November/December. It was snowing so we parked on the road / track beneath the slug boulders etc. and went to check out the boulders. They were wet so returned to the car to find that the gate to the track had been locked, even though my car was easily visible from the gate. Luckily, about an hour later, someone from the forestry commission came back and let me out and advised me that his colleague must have locked the gate! Idiots! He told me that climbing there was banned, as there were hunting parties with guns active in the area.

Bobling · February 13, 2010, 12:40:39 am

I asked when I was at TCA and the word there was it was banned :

b3n99 · April 07, 2010, 11:13:24 am

In regards to getting your car locked in the gated area then i don't think this is a regular problem as this is not a parking space that should be used as it is a private driveway and there are notices on the gate. There is parking a little further up the road in a small muddy layby which hardly increases walk in time.
I have been to huntsham 5-6 times since the ban and never had any problems. There is no signage around the area and all cases ive heard of just end with a request to leave, no shotgun waving to be seen. I'd say its definetly worth a visit!

nic mullin · April 08, 2010, 02:33:26 pm

I went up there on Monday - didn't see anybody else, wasn't asked to leave and the circuit was well chalked. Keep a low profile and you'll be fine.

BB · April 08, 2010, 03:46:37 pm

I'm looking for someone to show me round huntsham, will trade a tour for spotting and an extra mat.

steve.82 · May 20, 2010, 01:18:21 pm

Quote from: nic mullin on April 08, 2010, 02:33:26 pm

I went up there on Monday - didn't see anybody else, wasn't asked to leave and the circuit was well chalked. Keep a low profile and you'll be fine.

How do! I just registered here to check access at Huntsham. Still down these parts occasionally then?

steve.82 · May 20, 2010, 01:19:28 pm

Quote from: BB on April 08, 2010, 03:46:37 pm

I'm looking for someone to show me round huntsham, will trade a tour for spotting and an extra mat.

Looks like we might be there Saturday at some point

T_B · April 25, 2016, 11:59:51 am

Does anyone know if the bouldering here is generally dry at this time of year? I've always fancied checking it out and may have the opportunity en route to Exeter this coming weekend. Is there an on-line topo? I have Grimer's guide, but it would be good to know the lines, in particular on the bivi buttress. Ta.

cha1n · April 25, 2016, 12:25:31 pm

The boulder with Ames Low on (best bit of rock there) will likely by dry. Bivy stays pretty dry too. Andy Morris wrote a little blog on it; http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html

Three Nine · April 25, 2016, 12:35:00 pm

Quote from: T_B on April 25, 2016, 11:59:51 am

Does anyone know if the bouldering here is generally dry at this time of year? I've always fancied checking it out and may have the opportunity en route to Exeter this coming weekend. Is there an on-line topo? I have Grimer's guide, but it would be good to know the lines, in particular on the bivi buttress. Ta.

its like churnet but much shitter - you have been warned!

T_B · April 25, 2016, 02:27:18 pm

Hmm looks pretty good to me in the vids (and Mrs T_B likes lowball roofs), though I do like the Churnet for the esoteric nature of it/general feel of the place. And it's always interesting to go somewhere new. Unless someone has a better idea for somewhere between Sheff and Exeter?

Three Nine · April 25, 2016, 02:59:03 pm

Forest rock!

SA Chris · April 25, 2016, 03:00:58 pm

Bathford / Sally in the Woods is a bit of a detour, but traffic not too bad off peak?

Haresfield Beacon! (this isn't serious btw)

tomtom · April 25, 2016, 03:03:18 pm

Churnet

T_B · April 25, 2016, 03:17:41 pm

Quote from: tomtom on April 25, 2016, 03:03:18 pm

Churnet

I reckon it would take the same time to get from the Churnet to Exeter as it would Sheffield to Exeter! Such a pain in the ar*e place to get to/from.

andy popp · April 25, 2016, 03:42:06 pm

Quote from: T_B on April 25, 2016, 02:27:18 pm

Hmm looks pretty good to me in the vids (and Mrs T_B likes lowball roofs), though I do like the Churnet for the esoteric nature of it/general feel of the place. And it's always interesting to go somewhere new. Unless someone has a better idea for somewhere between Sheff and Exeter?

I've bouldered there once and I enjoyed it - I'd go again (then again I do have a penchant for obscure sandstone). I've actually been in Hereford since last Wed evening and its been almost completely dry the whole time). I'm likely here all week and would like to get a chance to fit a session in. I'll update on conditions if I do.

T_B · April 25, 2016, 04:06:01 pm

Cool, thanks Andy. It just looks like a dead nice spot to spend a few hours...

Fiend · April 25, 2016, 04:07:41 pm

Pretty good highballs there aren't there?? Will suit you perfectly TB

T_B · April 25, 2016, 04:15:11 pm

Yeah just watched and started having flashbacks

andy popp · April 25, 2016, 04:26:03 pm

Yeah, I've enjoyed one day routing there as well. I didn't try Appointment with Beer but the E5 that goes straight up from just left of its start is super soft and on genuinely good rock. Seaside Stroll (E5) at nearby Coppet Hill also looks like it would make a very good highball. Its possible I might still around at the weekend. As you say though, it is a really nice place to spend a few hours.

If you've not been then the bouldering at Nesscliffe is excellent, though it would be quite a detour.