[Bobling]

Can anyone give me any advice on the access for this area?  BMC says (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=920...)

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

It is claimed that the area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. "

[grimer]

I met the gamekeeper there one time and he said the crags were indeed banned, although they were turning a blind eye to the use of the boulders that lie near the main path (although not the ones down near the river).

[Bobling]

I have not been yet but am thinking about dropping in this Friday afternoon, so in terms of the problems in this topo here http://www.esotericbouldering.com/wales/huntsman.pdf, do you think I'm likely to get shotgun waving "get orf my land?"

[TomP]

This used to be my local crag before I moved to Leeds. There never used to be any issue surrounding access and as far as I know all the regulars still boulder there. That's a real shame if there are access issues.

You should be fine where all the good bouldering is (Slug Boulder etc and boulders near the main path).

[nic mullin]

I'd heard about this and have been there a few times since and had no problems. I've heard roumours of people being asked to leave, but haven't heard of anything arsey/aggressive, so I'd just turn up and if anybody challenges you, apologise, say you didn't know and see what happens. 

[KH]

I was there in November/December.  It was snowing so we parked on the road / track beneath the slug boulders etc. and went to check out the boulders.  They were wet so returned to the car to find that the gate to the track had been locked, even though my car was easily visible from the gate.  Luckily, about an hour later, someone from the forestry commission came back and let me out and advised me that his colleague must have locked the gate!  Idiots!  He told me that climbing there was banned, as there were hunting parties with guns active in the area.

[Bobling]

I asked when I was at TCA and the word there was it was banned :

[b3n99]

In regards to getting your car locked in the gated area then i don't think this is a regular problem as this is not a parking space that should be used as it is a private driveway and there are notices on the gate. There is parking a little further up the road in a small muddy layby which hardly increases walk in time.
I have been to huntsham 5-6 times since the ban and never had any problems. There is no signage around the area and all cases ive heard of just end with a request to leave, no shotgun waving to be seen. I'd say its definetly worth a visit!

[nic mullin]

I went up there on Monday - didn't see anybody else, wasn't asked to leave and the circuit was well chalked. Keep a low profile and you'll be fine.

[BB]

I'm looking for someone to show me round huntsham, will trade a tour for spotting and an extra mat.

[steve.82]

I went up there on Monday - didn't see anybody else, wasn't asked to leave and the circuit was well chalked. Keep a low profile and you'll be fine.

How do! I just registered here to check access at Huntsham. Still down these parts occasionally then?

[steve.82]

I'm looking for someone to show me round huntsham, will trade a tour for spotting and an extra mat.

Looks like we might be there Saturday at some point

[T_B]

Does anyone know if the bouldering here is generally dry at this time of year? I've always fancied checking it out and may have the opportunity en route to Exeter this coming weekend. Is there an on-line topo? I have Grimer's guide, but it would be good to know the lines, in particular on the bivi buttress. Ta.

[cha1n]

The boulder with Ames Low on (best bit of rock there) will likely by dry. Bivy stays pretty dry too. Andy Morris wrote a little blog on it; http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html

[Three Nine]

Does anyone know if the bouldering here is generally dry at this time of year? I've always fancied checking it out and may have the opportunity en route to Exeter this coming weekend. Is there an on-line topo? I have Grimer's guide, but it would be good to know the lines, in particular on the bivi buttress. Ta.

its like churnet but much shitter - you have been warned!

[T_B]

Hmm looks pretty good to me in the vids (and Mrs T_B likes lowball roofs), though I do like the Churnet for the esoteric nature of it/general feel of the place. And it's always interesting to go somewhere new. Unless someone has a better idea for somewhere between Sheff and Exeter?

[Three Nine]

Forest rock!

[SA Chris]

Bathford / Sally in the Woods is a bit of a detour, but traffic not too bad off peak?

Haresfield Beacon! (this isn't serious btw)

[tomtom]

Churnet

[T_B]

Churnet

I reckon it would take the same time to get from the Churnet to Exeter as it would Sheffield to Exeter! Such a pain in the ar*e place to get to/from.

[andy popp]

Hmm looks pretty good to me in the vids (and Mrs T_B likes lowball roofs), though I do like the Churnet for the esoteric nature of it/general feel of the place. And it's always interesting to go somewhere new. Unless someone has a better idea for somewhere between Sheff and Exeter?

I've bouldered there once and I enjoyed it - I'd go again (then again I do have a penchant for obscure sandstone). I've actually been in Hereford since last Wed evening and its been almost completely dry the whole time). I'm likely here all week and would like to get a chance to fit a session in. I'll update on conditions if I do.

[T_B]

Cool, thanks Andy. It just looks like a dead nice spot to spend a few hours...

[Fiend]

Pretty good highballs there aren't there?? Will suit you perfectly TB

[T_B]

Yeah just watched and started having flashbacks

[andy popp]

Yeah, I've enjoyed one day routing there as well. I didn't try Appointment with Beer but the E5 that goes straight up from just left of its start is super soft and on genuinely good rock. Seaside Stroll (E5) at nearby Coppet Hill also looks like it would make a very good highball. Its possible I might still around at the weekend. As you say though, it is a really nice place to spend a few hours.

If you've not been then the bouldering at Nesscliffe is excellent, though it would be quite a detour.

[Fiend]

Andy could you give Shadowlands a good scrub when you're warming up lapping it please 

[cha1n]

It would be a travesty not to do Ames Low whilst you're there (if you go). Worth checking out if the dartmoor and surrounding areas are any good. I've only been to Bonehill and that was disgustingly sharp granite in a nice (but exposed) setting, I probably wouldn't rush back there.

The view from Bivy buttress is really nice if you're into that sort of thing, pay close attention to the walk-in directions as it won't be that fun if you get lost.

[T_B]

Going to Dartmoor on the Sunday with a big team so saving skin for that

[andy popp]

Andy could you give Shadowlands a good scrub when you're warming up lapping it please 

Yeah, right ...

[BrutusTheBear]

I've only been to Bonehill and that was disgustingly sharp granite in a nice (but exposed) setting, I probably wouldn't rush back there.

I'd get yourself a taster for your pasties if you are planning on coming back to Devon!

[Duma]

Nows a good time for Huntsham, gets very overgrown by the summer. Please don't go to Sally in the woods instead, it's terrible in comparison! Bivi buttress is a lovely spot with some testing roof problems, though Squire's Goliath got a second ascent the other day so you'll have to settle for third! Once you're at sliced slug Bivi buttress is fairly easy to find, just up and left.

[cha1n]

I'd get yourself a taster for your pasties if you are planning on coming back to Devon!

That'll be those famous 'Devonshire Pasties' then?

Hey, I said it was a nice place with disgusting, sharp granite. Fair comment? I'm pretty keen to check out some of the other crags if they are better though.

[SA Chris]

It's all granite on Dartmoor. Of various degrees of sharpness. Need to adopt different style to get stuff done.

[Duma]

It's all sharp, except the metolius bits. Cha1n is a pussy though.

[Three Nine]

The moor and the woods are fuckin brilliant in so many ways. Yeah its abrasive, but there are so many good problems. Huntsham is a bit of an esoteric shithole, and fairly nasty on the skin too in places (peckett roof anyone?!).

Cha1n is a man who cried off outdoors on Sunday cos of a bad finger, but then went on the moon board. His opinion on this matter counts for 

 

[PipeSmoke]

Huntsham is awesome, appointment with beer well worth doing, its not sketchy at all, well not as sketchy as it looks. Alex's roof, Ames low, porthole, loads good to go at
Spoke to the hunter bloke a few times now , he was pretty relaxed with it all, just said if you can hear a hunt on then leave and also park in muddy verge/layby. Met another guy with a shotgun as well on the way up the path , he was fine with me climbing on the boulders near the path but not near the river. I think a combination of several cars parking in turning circle and climbing when they are hunting has led to this "access" stuff

[duncan]

Unless someone has a better idea for somewhere between Sheff and Exeter?

Biblins Cave? May-September only. I've not been - too hard for me - but it looks good.

[SA Chris]

It's quite a detour isn't it? Does look great if you are operating in that range. Given it's start of access season it might need a bit of a clean?

[Duma]

Biblins is a nice spot, but much less to go at than Huntshams. Bit more of a detour than Huntshams too. I think Alex's Roof has broken, not tried it since though. Appt w/beer is great, and about 6B+

[T_B]

So is like Appointment with beer fairly positive and doesn't suffer from some heinous slopey top out?

[BrutusTheBear]

It's all sharp, except the metolius bits. Cha1n is a pussy though.
Cha1n is a man who cried off outdoors on Sunday cos of a bad finger, but then went on the moon board. His opinion on this matter counts for 

It's all clear now.  Real rock hurts your poor soft fingers and you would prefer to pootle around inside on crispy clear sunny days. Must be some kind of vampire with skin issues.

[cha1n]

It's all sharp, except the metolius bits. Cha1n is a pussy though.
Cha1n is a man who cried off outdoors on Sunday cos of a bad finger, but then went on the moon board. His opinion on this matter counts for 

It's all clear now.  Real rock hurts your poor soft fingers and you would prefer to pootle around inside on crispy clear sunny days. Must be some kind of vampire with skin issues.

The issue is that I have really weak pulleys that get injured when I even look at a crimp. Dartmoor lured me in with its beautiful, sloping features only to turn out to be boning down on razor sharp crystals - grim. I don't think you can like any sharp granite bouldering without having very strong fingers, same reason I think Peak lime is shit init.

I know it was only banter, but regardless, I only had the briefest of plays on the moonboard and the rest of the time was spent getting pumped on easy circuits. It's a pinky injury, so I can be selective when bouldering but when I'm pumped and scared on a (sport!) route, I'll just bone down on whatever I'm holding to avoid falling off because as Duma said, I'm a pussy.

[PipeSmoke]

So is like Appointment with beer fairly positive and doesn't suffer from some heinous slopey top out?

Top is slopey but completely fine , give it a go

[fatneck]

How banned is Huntsham?

i.e. is a quiet approach with pads (but no dogs) likely to arouse an angry shotgun wielding local and an arseful of shot?

[andy popp]

That used to be the deal, but I've no idea now - it's a long time since I've been.

[Fiend]

Boulders are well hidden in the jungle these days if that helps, more likely to get an arseful of stag antlers.

[Hacker]

No personal experience but the recent accents feature on the other channel has some accents if that helps. Expect a low profile as you suggest would be best.

[cheque]

Basically, try not to sound too scouse Fatneck. 

[joeisidle]

How banned is Huntsham?

i.e. is a quiet approach with pads (but no dogs) likely to arouse an angry shotgun wielding local and an arseful of shot?

Officially it's still banned but in reality if you keep a low profile it'll probably be fine - I haven't heard any reports of anyone being collared by the landowner in recent times. RAD and most guidebooks suggest avoiding deer staking season (November to March) though, and given the softness of the rock and the crag's aspect avoiding the wetter months is probably a good idea anyway.

[Goat]

We were told to leave by the gamekeeper before we even made it to the main track. This was a year and a bit ago during the deer stalking season. (Probably a bit unfortunate.)

[fatneck]

We had a good day there on Saturday and came across three other small groups but no game keepers or any hassle. More overgrown that we had anticipated but a really good set of problems in a brilliant location. Very keen to return and take in some of the other areas and Staunton Woods in particular. We also visited the Three Rocks area on Friday and were very impressed with the quality of the sandstone. Worth a visit if you're local but not a patch on Huntsham.

Also visited Sally in the Woods yesterday and it was much better than we anticipated!

Finally, new Esoteric Bristol guide is excellent!