[joeb]

I have a trip lined up for around christmas, and was wondering how people would train between now and then. Am pretty good at 4 to 6 week turn arounds for sport but struggle to break down my bouldering in the same way. I have a beastmaker and 35 degree board at home and train at least 3 times a week, I climbed my first font 8a in january but have since had our first addition to the family who is now six months. In other words i need to be specific and effective with the time I have, ideas suggestions would be superb 

[Jeff25]

Hello Joeb,
I would be interested to hear what the well informed on here have to say so hope you get some worthwhile replies.
Im in a similar place, but with sport climber background, and I found periodzation planning worked really well for routes. I now want to do a grit headpoint this winter so looking to adandon the rope and purely work strength and power (where im pathetic) - and im struggling to work out how the periodization works for this and if its as applicable. My current plan is...

- Aiming for peak performance at start of December
- 3 phases between then and now. Strength 5wks, Power 5 wks, Combination, 2 wks.
- Split strength and power between fingers and back.

1. Strength phase
- Fingers. Will be using Beastmaker for finger (currently rock rings) but want an additional finger strength area of exercise (thinking of finger rolls but dont have facilities) - would do 10 move boulder problems if i had a 30degree wall.
- Back/arms. I will be doing weighted pull ups (5 reps).
2. Power phase
- Fingers. Campus laddering, progressing to touches (or whatever theyre called), progressing to double dynos
- Back/arms. Footless bouldering on large ish/ spaced ish holds (if i can get facilities)
3. Combined phase
- Not really sure yet.

Two footnotes:
1. Will be interupting the above with as many trips to grit at weekends as i can
2. Am tempted to bin the whole periodization thing and combine strength and power training in a 'complex training' type schedule as per Eric Horst.

[joeb]

jeff, that looks like the kind of thing i was after and very similar to what i had written down. Not sure about the effectivness of weighted pull ups all i found it did for me a couple of years back was make me heavy. Much more effective in my opinion to work one arm sets of 3-5 with as little assistance as possible. They look like good tactics to me especially laying off the fingers the closer you get to the end of your cycle. I was hoping for a little more input but best of luck to you keep me posted.

[shark]

(currently rock rings) but want an additional finger strength area of exercise (thinking of finger rolls but dont have facilities)

You could attach the rock rings to weights and do finger curls

[mrjonathanr]

Where's the adaptation phase?

[joeb]

Good point about the adaption phase was thinking at least one week of active rest, ie one third volume between phases. Then around 10 days before the trip itself, does this sound right ? I used to have very short adaption phases but as i get older notice the power coming through later and later.

[mrjonathanr]

I'm no expert, it's just an observation.
Someone was discussing the merits of 2 weeks power/2x p-endurance/1x adaptn. (40% effort and volume) as a good structure but it depends entirely on what you're trying to achieve.
I'm willing to believe an adaptation phase is an integral part of the process but mine are usually a month off with injury every so often so can't talk from experience...