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Stone Farm Boulder (Read 14543 times)

ian h

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#25 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 14, 2009, 09:43:04 pm
Like st hubbins said

Pz climbed pretty much most of the harder boulder problems on SS

Bum dragon
slow pull
nightfall
turning the leaf / tusky
sit start to kinda lingers
yankee affair
the lemur
magnetic
Also the brenva ss which he also repeated without warming up , in bare feet after not climbing at all for 18 months.

Ian stronghill was wrongly credited with stinging nettle in the guide

Just had another quick look at the video of finger fow , does not really look as though Andy is going off left. As i remember it is quite independent of torque wrench. Although i must say i have not been down there in some time.


Averageman

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#26 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 14, 2009, 10:22:19 pm
Take your blinkers off Averageman, these problems are lines NOT eliminates......
That is what i said from the the start, they are independent lines, its interesting to note here that the new guide book shows stinging nettle coming in from the left.
well said
and i thought andy was the walking guide book
Interesting theory Neil, not sure how much thinking went into that one.
Like st hubbins said

Pz climbed pretty much most of the harder boulder problems on SS

Bum dragon
slow pull
nightfall
turning the leaf / tusky
sit start to kinda lingers
yankee affair
the lemur
magnetic
Also the brenva ss which he also repeated without warming up , in bare feet after not climbing at all for 18 months.

Ian stronghill was wrongly credited with stinging nettle in the guide

Just had another quick look at the video of finger fow , does not really look as though Andy is going off left. As i remember it is quite independent of torque wrench. Although i must say i have not been down there in some time.


Very impressive for sure, i cant believe i never came across this chap before, as for fingerflow, i started the same as you, then moved into the thin flakes and went direct to the top, keeping the flakes directly in front of me, the guide book (maybe wrongly written) does say "climb the flakes".

ian h

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#27 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 14, 2009, 10:50:33 pm
He only climbed on SS for a couple of seasons before settling down with family commitments.

Finger flow : what ever way it goes , I always considered it the best problem on the boulder , class climbing up that section of rock . Guide i would say is correct looks as though both ways use the flakes there is probably just more than one way to do the last couple of moves . :shrug:

Averageman

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#28 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 14, 2009, 11:14:16 pm
He only climbed on SS for a couple of seasons before settling down with family commitments.

Finger flow : what ever way it goes , I always considered it the best problem on the boulder , class climbing up that section of rock . Guide i would say is correct looks as though both ways use the flakes there is probably just more than one way to do the last couple of moves . :shrug:
Fair comment, when i tried it, i was having a few problems so i tried going left and found it very reachy, so persevered with the direct, and it paid off.
The problem to the right up the blank wall i found harder and its supposed to be easier.

ian h

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#29 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 14, 2009, 11:29:01 pm
He only climbed on SS for a couple of seasons before settling down with family commitments.

Finger flow : what ever way it goes , I always considered it the best problem on the boulder , class climbing up that section of rock . Guide i would say is correct looks as though both ways use the flakes there is probably just more than one way to do the last couple of moves . :shrug:
Fair comment, when i tried it, i was having a few problems so i tried going left and found it very reachy, so persevered with the direct, and it paid off.
The problem to the right up the blank wall i found harder and its supposed to be easier.

Thats the way it is with SS i guess

orc

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#30 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 16, 2009, 06:17:32 pm
Captain Kirk, Spock and I did them both with our anti-gravity boots fifty years ago, both were easy. Stop bickering you lot.
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neil h

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#31 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 16, 2009, 08:10:47 pm
he's alive .................................

what you doing on this forum

Dr T

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#32 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 20, 2009, 06:04:47 pm
ok - right...

so had a yyfy moment today, well 2 to be exact.

did both versions of Stinging nettle and though I might as well put my thoughts down on paper, as it were, just in case anyone gave two shakes of a whatists dooda

The Left hand start (did this one first)

4 hand movements, before the match and top out
first 3 all relatively straight forward, followed by the crux slap for the top
with the feet starting on the left brings the foot block into play which makes life easier (for me)

The Right hand start

3 hand movements, before the match and top out
1st hand move big blind slap for a crimp, admittedly the right hand is good but the starting hold for the left hand is poor before you make the move
2nd move is simple and the slap for the top is the same as for the Left hand start
big difference is both feet are essentially on the roof (right foot was a toe not a heel so not much purchase) so the initial pull on and slap are a lot more strenuous than from the left when feet are on the foot block

so that said I felt the RHS had 2 equally taxing moves to the LHS's 1 which would lead me to say that the RHS is a half grade harder than the LHS

now admittedly I have a very dodgy lower back so pulling straight onto roofs is hard for me but those are my thought for what they're worth.

neil h

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#33 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 20, 2009, 08:45:13 pm
spot on mr t

I agree that the right hand version is a tad harder than the left, 7a for left 7a+ for the right.....

good effort for soing both and clearing things up



stay strong  :)

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#34 Re: Stone Farm Boulder
July 22, 2009, 02:24:57 pm
ok - right...

so had a yyfy moment today, well 2 to be exact.

did both versions of Stinging nettle and though I might as well put my thoughts down on paper, as it were, just in case anyone gave two shakes of a whatists dooda


Good work Dr T  :thumbsup:

 

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