[stonemonkey]

any beta on this 

[priscilla wimbush]

I asked that same question once- search doesn't throw it up very easily though.
Great problem - how far are you getting on it?

[stonemonkey]

i can throw up high with my left hand for the gaston crimp high  up, hold it and thats it - only had one session on it so far but was really puzzled by it. Heard you had to do a weird heel toe with your left foot above the wall

[thekettle]

I've NOT succeeded on this but Mr Birkett gave me the following beta for the standing start before wandering whimsically up it: Use the RH starting hold as a sidepull rather than crimpy pinch, and get the left heel tucked into the RH end of the vague horizontal ledge above the wall. Then slap serenely upwards, or collapse onto your mat.

[stonemonkey]

i can slap my left hand up, but canr manage to move off that

[Drewski Rootbitch]

Spawned my way up this (and the sitter) just after Dave years ago and haven't been on it since, so forgive any rusty/shit beta.
Standing problem;
right hand in a little triangular side pull, I mono-ed this with middle finger.
Left hand on big slopey arete.
Left foot as heel and (shite) toe cam in triangular horizontal groove above wall.
Can't remember right foot, but... must be fairly obvious (maybe just a smear and a drag up the wall?)
Rock up left over left hand and flick it into a thumb down palm....keep on rocking over and pressing out.
Throw to small crimp with your left just shy of the top, then go again to the good top.
I've probably missed out a move or three, but that all my addled mind recalls at the mo, if I have any flashbacks I'll update.
When you've done it once it become proper auto-pilot.
Good luck.

[stonemonkey]

cheers for that

[andy_e]

I've NOT succeeded on this but Mr Birkett gave me the following beta for the standing start before wandering whimsically up it: Use the RH starting hold as a sidepull rather than crimpy pinch, and get the left heel tucked into the RH end of the vague horizontal ledge above the wall. Then slap serenely upwards, or collapse onto your mat.

Was that you there on saturday?

[tomtom]

Found this if it helps... (backlinked)

[Drewski Rootbitch]

It looks like he's coming into it from the sitter.
The right hand is on the standup start hold (triangular-side-pull-mono-thing), but his left is too low for the standup, needs to be on the arete higher....seem to recall slapping to, and holding this being one of the hard moves from the sitter. But I also recall doing loadsa moves from the big toe hook....Then stack feet and kung-pow the heel&toe over the wall.....
I've confused myself now. Nevermind, forget it.

[slackline]

It looks like he's coming into it from the sitter.
The right hand is on the standup start hold (triangular-side-pull-mono-thing), but his left is too low for the standup, needs to be on the arete higher....seem to recall slapping to, and holding this being one of the hard moves from the sitter. But I also recall doing loadsa moves from the big toe hook....Then stack feet and kung-pow the heel&toe over the wall.....
I've confused myself now. Nevermind, forget it.

Why not use the wall next to it 

[tomtom]

It looks like he's coming into it from the sitter.
The right hand is on the standup start hold (triangular-side-pull-mono-thing), but his left is too low for the standup, needs to be on the arete higher....seem to recall slapping to, and holding this being one of the hard moves from the sitter. But I also recall doing loadsa moves from the big toe hook....Then stack feet and kung-pow the heel&toe over the wall.....
I've confused myself now. Nevermind, forget it.

Why not use the wall next to it 

  thats a line right out of UKC... 

[slackline]

I've confused myself now. Nevermind, forget it.

Why not use the wall next to it 

  thats a line right out of UKC... 

It was 'cause its in the Lakes and people often say similar at the Bowderstone.

[andy_e]

I've NOT succeeded on this but Mr Birkett gave me the following beta for the standing start before wandering whimsically up it: Use the RH starting hold as a sidepull rather than crimpy pinch, and get the left heel tucked into the RH end of the vague horizontal ledge above the wall. Then slap serenely upwards, or collapse onto your mat.

Was that you there on saturday?

Actually, I think I might know who you are now, and if it is you then I was in your living room this afternoon...

[chillax]

[andy_e]

Nothing of the sort, let's just say if the Kettle is the Kettle I know then it involves two babies, two friends, my mother and a trip to kentmere...

[thekettle]

That would be me Andi! Get in touch if you want to combine forces in South Lakes sometime.