[travs]

Well I did a couple of new problems at Aparant North a week or so ago. They are located on a narrow wall, about 6ft wide about 20m right of Hamper's Hang. The wall looks really small until you get up close and you realise there's another 4ft of climbing hidden in a bit of a pit formed by 2 big boulders left and right. The left arrete goes at about 6a and the right rib goes at about 7b but you have to be strict about feet not passing the edge of the rib. Both problems climb really well although Percy might not think so since I pulled off a fairly important pebble after climbing the right hand line. Names are 'Pit Trip Left Hand' and 'Pit Trip Right Hand'.

[Percy B]

The crag is spelt STANAGE, and the area is APPARENT north.

Bloody hell, you've been there enough times even you should be able to spell it by now!

 

[Sloper]

do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?

[tc]

do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?

One 'd' in pedant, I think you'll find. 

[Percy B]

 

[Jim]

where abouts are these? have climbed or tried to climb nearly everything I could find round here. anywhere near the slopey traverse?

[Sloper]

do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?

One 'd' in pedant, I think you'll find. 

Quite.

[Drew]

do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?

One 'd' in pedant, I think you'll find. 

Irony, I think you'll find. 

[Johnny Brown]

Any chance of a pic, these sound familiar?

[travs]

Sorry I haven't got a pic at the moment, but they are way before the slopey traverse. After 'Black Car Burning' the crag steps up the slope and then comes back down again. The problems are about 10m right of where it comes back down but you sort of walk rightwards around the boulders and back in again. I'd be suprised if they've been done before as they were as dirty as hell and needed a good clean.

[Johnny Brown]

Sloper made the same assumption about his 'new' stuff not far from here. As long as the likes of Bighands and Farrar are at large I think its safer to assume anything at Stanage below 7c has been done before.

[Percy B]

I don't reckon these have been done before. Obscure, and very hard to find unless you accidently fall into the pit. To esoteric for Farrah (words I thought i'd never type, but there you go). Slopers stuff on the other hand is just the continuation of the edge past the cowperstone, and I would have been very surprised to think that they hadn't been done years ago (which they have).

[travs]

Sure, but if we assume that then nothing new will ever get done and apart from that they obviously haven't done everything under 7c. Also if people can't be bothered to claim first ascents then they shouldn't bother retro claiming them when people do make the effort of cleaning problems and writting them up. If it wasn't for people cleaning problems, claiming ascents and pointing people to new problems there wouldn't be guide books nor the possibilty of going out and trying something new. This is all very similar to what happened when I wrote up 'A Tricky Traverse' at Secret Garden. OK it's not the best problem but it's certainly worth doing, but the immediate response was Oh I'm sure Zaff will have done this, he's done everything at Secret Garden, he used to crawl all over that bit of rock. Well I met Zaff at Secret Garden about 6 weeks ago and we showed each other various eliminates and he confirmed that he hadn't done this problem. So all I'm saying is that it's all very well acting as a spokesman for somebody else but unless you definitively know that they have done something don't just assume that they have.

[r-man]

Travs (and others), don't be put off from posting your finds on here. It is appreciated. Whether it has been done before or not, at least you're making the effort to share it with everyone else.

 

Would be even better if you got some photos! Best way to spread the pysche and get people interested...

[LucyB]

I don't reckon these have been done before. Obscure, and very hard to find unless you accidentally fall into the pit. Too esoteric for Farrah (words I thought I'd never type, but there you go). Sloper's stuff on the other hand is just the continuation of the edge past the Cowperstone, and I would have been very surprised to think that they hadn't been done years ago (which they have).

Sloper, can I borrow that outfit for Font, please? 

[Johnny Brown]

Sorry, I don't want to put folk off reporting stuff but on this kind of stuff I think some humility would go down well on the claims, ie 'I did this, its good, anyone know more?' rather than reaching straight for a NEWS thread.

[LucyB]

Depends if you think 'News' includes 'new' stuff or not. The answer seems to be in the title, to me. No-one is claiming it's ground-breaking, just new.

[r-man]

Humility schumility. The FA of a mid 7 in the peak isn't exactly important. So what if someone did this earlier - if they didn't feel the need to claim it, why should they care if someone else claims it instead?

What's more important is that the discovery is shared and that there are more things for everyone to climb. Like LucyA says, if it's new to most of us, it's news.

[Sloper]

Adding my 2p to the pot,

The things I uncovered were very, very dirty including heather growing from some of the holds and the rock was very very scrittly but soon brushed up and is now nice and solid.

I'm quite happy to accept that some one else has been there and done the problems J L (who ever you are) says him and some others did just that, as a non sponsored non hero I'm really not that upset one way or the other but as Travs says if you can't be bothered to write stuff up or publicise it then don't later seek to take the glory when someone else does.

There is still plenty of rock with worthwhile stuff to do on it out and about and the approach of 'well joe brown must have cracked that one off' does little to motivate people to out in what can be considerable time and effort.

Anyway, here's another one for the retroclaim brigade; a few years ago I did the undercut arete at Baslow to the right of 'manian bilberries' or what ever that weird slab is on the crag about walnut whip, it felt about font 6b and quite scary. Anyone else know this problem?

[Johnny Brown]

A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen. I don't think there's a need to describe every problem either, is everyone desperate to be spoonfed?

For some of us there's an enjoyment to be had from going to areas and discovering stuff for oursleves. Others don't claim these things so that others can have that too. The more folk claim, name and grade every last gap the harder that is to do. To me the more popular the area and the lower the grade the more claiming seems like gratuitous willy-waving. I'm sorry, but to me new to r-man and friends should not equal news.

[cofe]

Anyway, here's another one for the retroclaim brigade; a few years ago I did the undercut arete at Baslow to the right of 'manian bilberries' or what ever that weird slab is on the crag about walnut whip, it felt about font 6b and quite scary. Anyone else know this problem?

it's this thing. although you'd be forgiven otherwise thanks to the terrible description. i assume this guy means climbing it on the right. the left would be pointless.

[Fiend]

For some of us there's an enjoyment to be had from going to areas and discovering stuff for oursleves. Others don't claim these things so that others can have that too.

That is a good point.

[Sloper]

I totally agree about the thing about going to new areas and just finding stuff out and doing it which is why I don't really use climbing guides, other than to find where to go and how to get there.

If people were claiming some uber trivia on the face of business at the plantation eg ** top then I'd tend to agree, but what are nice independent lines on good rock in out of the way places, is I think quite different.

I do however think we've missed that nice relaxed, informal clique vibe by about ohh 40 years and for me the higher the grade the more appropriate the 'willy waving' is.

[r-man]

A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen. I don't think there's a need to describe every problem either, is everyone desperate to be spoonfed?

For some of us there's an enjoyment to be had from going to areas and discovering stuff for oursleves. Others don't claim these things so that others can have that too. The more folk claim, name and grade every last gap the harder that is to do. To me the more popular the area and the lower the grade the more claiming seems like gratuitous willy-waving. I'm sorry, but to me new to r-man and friends should not equal news.

Indeed, why don't we burn all the guides, that way Johnny Brown and friends will have more fun.

Better still, maybe you could just ignore threads that don't interest you, and allow others to share info about bouldering. Please allow us to pretend this a bouldering forum where people like to hear about bouldering...

Thanks awfully, r-man and friends.

[Sloper]

Anyway, here's another one for the retroclaim brigade; a few years ago I did the undercut arete at Baslow to the right of 'manian bilberries' or what ever that weird slab is on the crag about walnut whip, it felt about font 6b and quite scary. Anyone else know this problem?

it's this thing. although you'd be forgiven otherwise thanks to the terrible description. i assume this guy means climbing it on the right. the left would be pointless.

I don't think that's it at all, although it is a pretty unclear definition.  This starts on the very left of the wall, right by the descent gully and climbs the undercut arete via some unhelpful rugosities on the side wall and weird holds on the arete.  I know I can't grade for toffee but english 6a would seem a bit on the low side, who knows it might be 6b-