[Moo]

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[Resonate]

I watched Scott climb this:
09/02/17       steep arete problem                          Albarracín / aeroline                                                ***

The SDS is one more move which he did a few times seperately but none of us saw him link it as we all got cold and left.
make your own mind up

[dave]

whereabouts at albarracin is that? i can't picture it from that description alone.

[Resonate]

It's right next to the road (probably the closest boulder problem to the road in the whole place)

now i've thought about it i also saw him climb this:
09/02/17       ??       Albarracín / SOL         amazing moves!    ***

amazing looking problem , on that big free-standing boulder.

i didn't see him do any of the other albarracin 8s.

[dobbin]

What did you think about the grades?

[dave]

It's right next to the road (probably the closest boulder problem to the road in the whole place)

I know the one. looks like a great problem, i think banks nearly did it when we were there.

[Resonate]

I can't comment on grades, much too hard for me.
The one by the road had one long hard move which looked nails even when he got it.
The other (at Sol) was more sustained and was climbed really well so was made to look easy.

[dave]

now i've thought about it i also saw him climb this:
09/02/17       ??       Albarracín / SOL         amazing moves!    ***

amazing looking problem , on that big free-standing boulder.

I didn't think there were any 8s on that boulder, at not on any top i've seen. one or two 7c+s maybe. I presume you mean on of the sitters on the back face, which one?

[Resonate]

The left hand sitter moving up and slightly right. Pretty sure it was 8a in the guide book we had (general spanish bouldering book, albaracin was only one section listed), could easily have been re/down graded since that went to print (don't know how old it is).

[dave]

on this face then? maybe #57 by that description?

[r-man]

I didn't think there were any 8s on that boulder, at not on any top i've seen. one or two 7c+s maybe. I presume you mean on of the sitters on the back face, which one?

It's the line that starts as for Karmansia SD but goes straight up instead of traversing right. It's right of the 7c SD on the left. Scott used a different sequence to the video I saw, but hey, he climbed it. Gets 8a in the latest guidebook (Eblock).

Resonate, I didn't realise you saw him do that arete at Aeroline. Shame you didn't film it - I know Scott was keen to get some pics, but we were all too busy doing our own thing.

What did you think about the grades?

I didn't try any of the harder problems Scott tried, so I can't really say, but most of the problems I did were about right, maybe a few soft touches, but that's the same wherever you go (except the peak).

So I've no reason to doubt anything he did at Albarracin. We saw him climb two hard problems, and he looked capable on others. Of course, climbing 8a/+ is a long way from doing the Ace, but there you go. My only experience of Scott climbing is that he did get up some hard stuff. He also struggled on some easier stuff, though he rarely attempted problems below 8a.

[dave]

I didn't think there were any 8s on that boulder, at not on any top i've seen. one or two 7c+s maybe. I presume you mean on of the sitters on the back face, which one?

It's the line that starts as for Karmansia SD but goes straight up instead of traversing right. It's right of the 7c SD on the left. Scott used a different sequence to the video I saw, but hey, he climbed it. Gets 8a in the latest guidebook (Eblock).

word, looking at that photo above looks like theres some chalk dabs on this.

[r-man]

Photo? Not visible for me.

[Duma]

pic is here

[r-man]

Those lines don't tally with my guide. There is a 7c that goes to two lip holds right of the tree, then up. Then there is a line that goes to the start of the traverse, then comes back left (the 8a). What Scott climbed is nearest to line 56 in that pic (though this line isn't in my guide). Like I said, he didn't use the sequence I saw in the video (which also used the chalked up holds a little further right) but he climbed the most obvious sequence to the top. 

[dave]

i wouldn't lose sleep over that topo photo, it just happened to be the most easily accessable photo i could find on the web that showed that face of the boulder. 56 is that 7c, but they havent swerved the line left enough at the first lip.

[Steve R]

I think some of the slagging off of red-tips is pretty out of order tho, Scott needed putting straight but it seems like they are just psyched young climbers who just seem very immature to us old twats

I don't think it is. I'd also like to put it all down to youthfull exuberance and a big psyche but as has been said before, would you have come out with half the shit they do when you were their age or younger?

Hillwalking/dabbing aside, I've heard a report that Scotty might not be the only red-end with integrity issues... So watch this space?

Just read that back and sorry for such a negative post but hopefully this whole saga can act as a simple lesson for keen youngsters - don't lie  or else

[Resonate]

My only experience of Scott climbing is that he did get up some hard stuff. He also struggled on some easier stuff, though he rarely attempted problems below 8a.

This is true. He was focussed on the bigger numbers.

[grumpycrumpy]

This whole tale is very sad ..... I can't help but feel sorry for the lad .....   

[JohnM]

Just a thought on line 56 on that Albarracin topo.  If you do go direct without traversing into Karmansia it is about 7c.  Really nice problem with nice holds.  Got 7c+ in my topo but certainly wouldn't get that in Font or the UK. 

[jameslime]

right, i am new to this forum thing and i have been reading alot of your comments, i have also been on this 'red-tips'  site and personally i give the kids respect, as the behaviour i have seen on here in way makes me feel ashamed that fellow climbers would slag off younger climbers 'psyche' as it is called well in my case alot younger climbers, i will probably stay away from climbing on the internet, thanks. I just think you should all think. This is the next generation of climbers, shouldnt you be motivating them rather than slagging them off.

[andy_e]

The problem is not with their pysche but with the direction of their psyche surely? And surely this is also motivation to prove us cynics wrong?

[stom]

liam   ?

[jameslime]

i understand entirely where you are coming from but i just think you could be a little bit harsh, when it all comes down to it they are kids, just give them a break, i will not be on this website anymore so goodbye guys, just think before you write again

[grumpycrumpy]

little bit harsh,

Harsh ?..... And there was me thinking how everyone was being rather nice and understanding for a change .... Harsh bah , you ain't seen these fuckers being harsh 'James ' .....