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News from Scott in Wales (Read 59259 times)

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News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 06:02:51 pm
From the Copley log:

"My dad returned from the shop and I said ''I'm going to Wales with Scott for 5 days'', he was fine with this and then I started to get excited. I got a lift to the train station and I was away! all within the space of 2 hours. The feeling of ''adventure'' (as some might describe it) felt slightly new but refreshing. At around 8pm that day we set of to Wales, LLandudno to be precise, or actually even more precise, Parisella's Cave"

"Basically.........I slept in a van with Scott and Martin for 5 days in North Wales, I flashed a 7a and did a 7b and got really close on two 7c's. Scott did 3 Font 8a's and one Font8b/V13, which was Malcs Start next to Jerry's Roof, however there has been some people, as usual, doubting that he actually climbed it, so if you are one of those people and you are reading this, you kinda need to just calm down because I saw him do it. All in all, despite being crammed in a van with two oher people and eating porridge without milk or sugar every morning and not having any dinner and waiting all day everyday till the evening to eat again, it was a really awesome trip, my most favourite so far, Wales such a nice place, and I want to go back soon, back to the training for now, after at least 2 days of hardcore resting!"


Oli

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#1 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 06:06:22 pm
Nice one.
Good to see that Liam still considers himself a trustworthy source.  :dance1:
« Last Edit: April 13, 2009, 06:27:27 pm by Oli »

cofe

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#2 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 06:53:18 pm
"eating porridge without milk or sugar every morning"

now that is hardcore. proper dry mouth scene.

Doylo

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#3 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:10:50 pm
Somone should give the lad a 8b+ tick for climbing it without chalk, not one spot of chalk on the top out of Pools. Not even in the pocket. I want to know how long Malcs start took him.

JohnM

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#4 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:14:53 pm
Is this bull shit?  I don't know how someone can struggle on a basic powerful 7c, namely Rock Attrocity but do an 8b in what I guess was a session or two.

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#5 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:17:03 pm
A couple of points to add here:
I was at the cave on their first day, 2 young lads rock up, I don't know who they are. they both try rock atrocity, one lad (who I now know to be Scott) gets half way along it, goes bright red and comes off spent. I think good effort, he'll probably get that in a couple of goes. He then starts trying Louis armstrong and I think, what's he trying this for? its obviously way out of his league, why doesn't he concentrate and tick the cave right of passage classic rock atrocity? He then spends ages trying the slap move to the Lou ferrino ramp, doesn't really get close and tells me he is shit on undercuts. Asks kook for some beta for the other moves at the start but doesn't really seem to be getting anywhere close to them either.
Anyway, I think nothing of this till later when I speak to Doyle and he tells me who the lad that was trying Louis armstrong is and then tells me he told pritch he'd done all the moves on Louis armstrong!
Bearing in mind that pritch left the crag before me and that I hadn't left the cave at all whilst I was there (apart from a quick piss next door) I find all this completely unbelievable.
I've climbed with a lot of 8a and above climbers and they have, even on bad days, burned me off without much trouble. However I was firmly of the understanding that I could probably burn this guy off and I'm no were near climbing font 8a, let alone flashing some and doing some 8b's.
Also the word on the grape vine is that Scott climbed the problem called cable guy and not malc's start although I haven't had this confirmed to me first hand so take that one as rumour.
My first hand experience combined with what a lot of my friends have told me (including one of them seeing him working but not doing the joker!) leads me to only one conclusion that Scott hasn't done these really hard problems he claims to of done. He seems like a nice enough lad and a decent climber although no where near a world class boulderer that his ascents would suggest he is

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#6 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:18:38 pm
Of course the light was too bad for photo's or am I just being a cynical old git?

I do hope so, so let's have a photo of the lad on / past the crux.

Otherwise, I'm afraid the doubters will be in the majority.

robertostallioni

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#7 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:22:21 pm
There's ane Xtreme weather warning tonight over Wales...

Doylo

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#8 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:25:54 pm
A friend of mine was at jerrys with them a few days ago and Scott pointed out what he'd done not even knowing it was Malcs start. He didn't even know what Pool of Bethesda was even though he'd done it. What a load off shit.

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#9 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:33:23 pm
i am just a random italian in love with climbing, and with uk climbing especially.
you know why this scotty thing really pisses me off?
because, i want to believe.
i love climbing monsters, esp the joung guns. they make me happy. i see them climbing and destroying things and this makes me happy because it's a step forward.
so i want to believe to scott, i need it, but every time it's more difficult.

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#10 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:42:58 pm
Indeed, likewise; young climbers, fast repeats, unreal strength are all really invigorating.
Bullshitting little cowards who won't even "man up" and prove the doubters wrong are the very antithesis of this.

If Scott is bullshitting, as is suggested, perhaps he can take up golf where no one really cares f you did kick your ball out of the rough.


Fiend

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#11 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:45:11 pm
"eating porridge without milk or sugar every morning"
now that is hardcore. proper dry mouth scene.
Actually, not wanting to throw a spanner in the works, but I've often had porridge with just cold water. It's a weird thing to do, but unlike anything else surrounding the current crop of teenage imbeciles (I mean "them lot", not Scott per se), it is feasible.

JohnM

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#12 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:45:48 pm
To say he did all the moves on Louey Armstrong is absolutely rubbish.  Fair play he looked reasonably strong on some of the moves but he didn't manage to do what I would consider to be the easiest moves on it after the crux and I was the last person in the cave that day.  However rather than berating him for being a liar someone should probably encourage his friends to keep an eye on him in case he is becoming a fantasist.

Jim

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#13 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 07:56:06 pm
I think its too late for that!

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#14 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 08:11:50 pm
Apparently word from scott is that he tried to repeat malcs start for the camera but couldnt. However even seeing failing footage would help!

And wales was beautiful this weekend besides all this bullshit.

Doylo

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#15 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 08:14:53 pm
Personally i would be happy just to see some evidence of Font 8 strength, and i mean pics and vid.

robertostallioni

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#16 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 08:18:04 pm

nodder

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#17 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 08:23:59 pm
ok, dont like to get involved with stuff like this, but i will anyway...

If you can apper in the pass and do malcs start then you will be able to climb through to at least hitting the porthole again, and again, cos this bit aint that hard.  Pools is nails but slightly body shape/knacky, I know a guy who did the move to the pocket numerous times before ever ticking his first 8a, so its possible he's telling the truth.  The moves on Louey, if you done the move to the ramp, this is pure power and you will be able to do it again.  I will chip in 15 pounds for fuel, for his next visit and they can all stay at my house as long as I can come to the crag and witness the fitness.  Nobody needs this sort of bullshit, if your real shut them all up if not, train hard and fast cos the pack is hunting you down and shit sticks.

CJD helped me with this dave age 30 and a half

Percy B

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#18 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 08:24:06 pm
not wanting to throw a spanner in the works

Too right you won't.....thats my job.

a dense loner

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#19 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 08:31:02 pm
too true nodder, with help from cjd.

this stinks, but i'm also glad he's coming onto your turf now so you can appreciate what we've had to put up with in and around the peak. just wait till you see him climb. unbelievable is quiet an apt word.

lee, aged 37 last friday

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#20 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 08:34:06 pm
Personally i would be happy just to see some evidence of Font 8 strength, and i mean pics and vid.

Agreed!!!

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#21 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 09:02:00 pm
someone should probably encourage his friends to keep an eye on him in case he is becoming a fantasist.
Therein lies the problem really. I can't think of a less reliable bunch of cretins to have fallen in with. Shouldn't Tommy be mentoring him still??

P.S. Percy I hope you're using the spanner to concote yet more gruesome volume contraptions...

GCW

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#22 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 09:33:37 pm
You bunch of cynics.  lol

I've seen on RedTips climbing that it's all true:  lol

Quote from: RedTips Gayers
In a recent trip to North Wales, Scott Mclellan climbed 3  Font 8a's,

 

    * Diesel Power
    * Sub Society
    * Unnamed Problem

And Malc's Start, which is Font 8b / V13, which has had few repeats. All problems are at the Cromlech bouldering in the LLanberris Pass. Scott also tried an un-climbed proect, which comes in from the right and climbs the same top section of 'Malc's Start. He made good progress on it, however he didn't manage to send it.


Liam Copley, Red-Tips site owner  flashed Pillbox Original Font 7a, and climbed Clever Beaver Font 7b, both in/near Parisella's Cave. He also got very close to climbing Jerry's Roof and Rock Atrocity, both Font 7c.

lol  Stop your whining, for the truth is there!
« Last Edit: April 13, 2009, 09:51:52 pm by GCW »

Fiend

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#23 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 09:39:57 pm

Stop your whining, for the truth is there!

....in dense's posts, in this case  :thumbsup:

GCW

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#24 Re: News from Scott in Wales
April 13, 2009, 09:45:54 pm
Someone should post a news article on UKC.  How many repeats has Malc's Start had?

 

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