You could easily break a leg as the landing is sloping and you're over 15 foot up when you pull onto the upper arete after gaining the big hold after all the hard climbing.... I wonder if there is any value in flagging this up in the next guide?
Quote from: Kingy on February 23, 2009, 09:55:25 amYou could easily break a leg as the landing is sloping and you're over 15 foot up when you pull onto the upper arete after gaining the big hold after all the hard climbing.... I wonder if there is any value in flagging this up in the next guide?Something along the lines of: "Warning: the top out of this boulder is just as high as it looks from the floor and should you fall, the landing is probably just as bad as it looks."
This then extends itself in to the even more worrying practice of missing out a few moves at the beginning or end of a problem because “they’re easy” and it doesn’t affect the grade. No, it starts there and finishes there so you need to do that for the tick. Some things I’ve heard / seen:- persons starting staminaband 3-4 moves in- starting la proue in cresciano 1 move in- starting mushroom roof in hueco missing the whole original traverse out- generally missing out easy starting bits of problems and taking half a grade less.- sometimes this is done out of a lack of knowledge rather than cheating / short changing yourself quickly becomes the norm.OK it’s a route but the worst example I’ve seen was a top german climber who crusied the hard bit of a bouldery 8b route and the moment he hit the 1st jug he started to shake violently and lose all composure. He layed one on for the next jug, clipped the bolt & claimed the tick. He forgot to do the 6c bit at the top which was “really easy” as he’d have surely fallen off.Standards seem to be sipping in search of the mighty grade and the quality ascent of old seems to be biting the bullet
OK it’s a route but the worst example I’ve seen was a top german climber who crusied the hard bit of a bouldery 8b route and the moment he hit the 1st jug he started to shake violently and lose all composure. He layed one on for the next jug, clipped the bolt & claimed the tick. He forgot to do the 6c bit at the top which was “really easy” as he’d have surely fallen off.
Standards seem to be sipping in search of the mighty grade and the quality ascent of old seems to be biting the bullet
Some thoughts on this on a specific problem at Font (Surplomb de la Mee) from the man in the forest.
would you tick remergence if you hadn't topped it out? (does it depend if you have a bouldering guide or routes guide with you?)
I suppose it does to a degree. If I was routing and wanted to climb remergence and take an E4 tick. Then I would have to top out.If I was bouldering and wanted to climb the start to remergence and take the v4 tick I would probably refer to the guide/person next to me/my mind and work out where there is a logical place the boulder problem start finishes and the route continues.My logic is probably flawed but there you go.
Quote from: Plattsy on February 25, 2009, 01:42:59 pmI suppose it does to a degree. If I was routing and wanted to climb remergence and take an E4 tick. Then I would have to top out.If I was bouldering and wanted to climb the start to remergence and take the v4 tick I would probably refer to the guide/person next to me/my mind and work out where there is a logical place the boulder problem start finishes and the route continues.My logic is probably flawed but there you go.Ergo its completely arbitrary whether you top out or not and your stance that topouts are required to validate an ascent is dependent on whether you're ticking the arbitrary placement of point B that you are trying to reach from point A.
Dunno about your logic but your choice of grading system is completely flawed.
For me a problem is from A to B. Misunderstanding/not knowing where A and B are is forgiveable but once known for sure there is no excuse. If you don't start from A and finish at B then you haven't done the problem/route.
If I was bouldering and wanted to climb the start to remergence and take the v4 tick I would probably refer to the guide/person next to me/my mind and work out where there is a logical place the boulder problem start finishes and the route continues.
Each to their own really.