[Johnny Brown]

That's what Rob Napier did. Are my feet in the right place to do it statically?

There is a slightly better right foot slightly higher, and a much better left well left. But you're on the 'normal' feet for the old pebble sequence.

[Nigel]

I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.

[Doylo]

I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.

Especially for a sport climber... Show some decorum Shark ffs

[shark]

I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.

Especially for a sport climber... Show some decorum Shark ffs

Just trying to fit in - I thought that's what you boulderers did. Will resort to type

As for dignity and decorum I think that's well beyond recovery.

[Kingy]

Looking good! Yes I used the crimp below the jug when I first did it. Shark the boulderer! 

[SA Chris]

Never get too blase about climbing over barbed wire fences. The trousers were on their way out anyway (were my favourites once ) and the wounds will heal. Nice bit of bouldering though.

[kelvin]

First groundfall outside yesterday, so sat in bed with a tweaked left ankle and the other heel well sore rather than still being up in the Peak climbing. Could have been worse I guess but bruised heels and me take a while to heal.

1 - learn to jam, learn to jam, learn to jam but not on lead

2 - less rope out and near the wall belaying in future

3 - learn to jam

[rginns]

I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream.

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....

[tomtom]

I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream.

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....

I've tweaked stuff in my wrist before and its cleared up pretty quick.. though sounds like yours is pretty painful

[Fiend]

I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream.

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....

I did something like that: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html , got one reply but that reply doesn't sound that similar (i.e. I get general pain not sharp ones).

[pyrosis]

Crazy mid back spasm halfway through my workout yesterday, just lateral to the spine and just below the shoulder blades. Continuing my campus training didn't seem to make it worse, it hurt like hell regardless of training or not, so I continued. Anyway today feels like a knife in my back, catchy and worsened with deep breathing or certain movements. Any advices?

[SA Chris]

Go see a specialist.

I have a muscle between my shoulderblades that goes a couple of times a year. Usually very painful at first, then I normally rest it for a day or two, then a climbing session seems to fix it.

[Doylo]

Something similar happened to me scraping the windscreen on Boxing Day. Had to take it easy for 2 weeks in my case

[rginns]

I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream.

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....

I did something like that: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html , got one reply but that reply doesn't sound that similar (i.e. I get general pain not sharp ones).

Thanks Fiend
Needless to say it's still buggered. So as to not be  I'll reply on the other thread

[andyd]

Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times

Puncture on way to work on Tuesday. Turns out it was a Stanley knife blade buried in the tyre...

[blacky]

Knob jockey. Hope you told the cops?!

[Sloper]

Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times

Puncture on way to work on Tuesday. Turns out it was a Stanley knife blade buried in the tyre...

Tried to send this as a pm but you've blocked me, so here we go. It took me a moment to realise why and then the D dropped.

Stuff like that can be a pain and very difficult to resolve, one way of dealing with it is to find out if the neighbour is renting and use their landlord as the leverage, all you need to know is the neighbour's name and the address & postcode (which should be straightforward  and then check on the  Land Registry for the owner, who can always be contacted via the lender (also listed on LR).

If you can't sort this yourself drop me a pm with details and I'll get my property dept to do it.

If they own the place, good luck.

Just be careful about escalating the tension, I used to see all sorts of horrible shit arising from non issues between neighbours when I worked for the old bill.

The advice stands but you can sort it our yourself.

[Bubba]

Would installing some discreet but not that discreet CCTV cameras help or just escalate things further?

[Sloper]

Escalate things further, lead to complaints of harassment (init) breach of human rights, perving at the kids etc, in situations like this the police will be useless, the only hope is that the landlord doesn't want the hassle and tells them to f--k off.

But then the lefty would say it's all society / Thatcher's fault eh

[cjsheps]

Think I fractured my coccyx two weeks ago after coming off a problem and missing a pad. I've been very limited in terms of the training I can do, as even on the campus board, any movement involving a lower body "initiation" is painful. After two weeks of fingerboard and limited campussing, it doesn't seem to be getting better. NNFN. 

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me please? I've been reluctant to stop training entirely, as I've been making great gains recently and the weather's just starting to get nicer.

[tomtom]

Shit Andy that's rubbish.

He's a bully and that makes me want to teach him a lesson - so god knows how you must feel! If you've not done this already I'd write down every incident in a diary/logbook - and update it. Its not the same as having things on film but does provide a record for the old bill/council etc..

Bubba has a point - in that a sneakily placed cctv (in an upstairs window with a good view) might provide some evidence - but you've got to then be prepared to use it.

I hope they're renting - as Sloper said - at least then you have some leverage/point of call against the landlord (who may not give a shit - but probably doesnt want a wanker living in their house though..)...

[andyd]

I've got no evidence. He owns the place and I rent. He's tried to sell and he can't as four bed town houses are going up all over in our area. He's a single guy, mid 30s who own the place outright. He hasn't been to work in 15 months and I'm guessing he feels pretty trapped in his (shitty) existence.

Sloper is right(!) as I've got nothing to gain from even talking to the guy. I might look at some discreet CCTV motion sensor thing if anything suspect happens again. It bothers me that he'd interfere with a car that I drive two kids around in. I guess for now I need to be content in the belief that his world's a whole lot less happy than mine...

Blacky. Spot on. Not called the fuzz yet as the folks are over. I reckon we'd take him though if you're up for it?

[Luke Owens]

It's basically sport season again and I got out today on the Orme in full hope of ticking something. Got powered out beyond belief over and over again... So much for the winter training!

Should I just become a boulderer? It seems like less hassle! 

[SA Chris]

Think I fractured my coccyx two weeks ago after coming off a problem and missing a pad. I've been very limited in terms of the training I can do, as even on the campus board, any movement involving a lower body "initiation" is painful. After two weeks of fingerboard and limited campussing, it doesn't seem to be getting better. NNFN. 

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me please? I've been reluctant to stop training entirely, as I've been making great gains recently and the weather's just starting to get nicer.

Go see a professional, get it X-Rayed and confirm at least. COuld just be badly bruised.

[kelvin]

Doh - Finally catch the small edge, foot pops and I jaw plant on the large hold below on another problem. One chipped tooth and a tongue clean bitten through.

I hate salt water in my mouth.