[tobym]

ok, got it.

[i.munro]

DB Bent over rows (arms out to side - squeezing shoulder blades together) or Hanging rows

Perhaps you can shed some light here.
My physio is advising me that my rotator cuff(RC) problem is that my shoulder blades are 'winging'.
That is to say (as I understand it) that rather than sitting where they should they are rotated
so that the edge nearest the spine is too far back & the other edge is too far forward.
She also says that this is a very common problem among climbers
& she has told me to do RC work with my shoulder blades apart.

On th other hand whenever you read about this stuff it says the same as you (ie squeeze them together).
Any thoughts are welcome.

[Serpico]

Feet or hands on the swiss ball for the pressups Serpico? )

Both are good, but hands on the ball is a bit easier (for me) and a more rotator cuff specific.

[Serpico]

DB Bent over rows (arms out to side - squeezing shoulder blades together) or Hanging rows

Perhaps you can shed some light here.
My physio is advising me that my rotator cuff(RC) problem is that my shoulder blades are 'winging'.
That is to say (as I understand it) that rather than sitting where they should they are rotated
so that the edge nearest the spine is too far back & the other edge is too far forward.
She also says that this is a very common problem among climbers
& she has told me to do RC work with my shoulder blades apart.

On th other hand whenever you read about this stuff it says the same as you (ie squeeze them together).
Any thoughts are welcome.

Depends on your exact condition. This is pretty common amongst climbers:
http://www.healthline.com/blogs/exercise_fitness/2006/10/thumbs-can-show-tightness-that-leads.html
More stuff here, particularly regarding scaption:
http://www.athletikspesifik.com/climbing-shoulder.html
Stick with your physio's advice, they've examined you and know the specifics of your particular condition.

[i.munro]

Stick with your physio's advice, they've examined you and know the specifics of your particular condition.

Thanks & I intend to. Just pointing out that that 'squeeze' is easy to misinterpret.
(At least for me)

[Paul B]

Definitely not a gimmick, just go into any hospital physio therapy dept.

Cool, I didn't realise your shoulder stuff was for rehab/physio recommended... I've found my core gets hit enough when I'm doing the big lifts as it is!

[Falling Down]

Feet or hands on the swiss ball for the pressups Serpico?  Or feet on one and hands on another 

I do my pressups (3 sets of 20 or 2 sets 6 clappers) with toes on the ball, feet at 90 degrees and really lock my core to stop the ball wobbling.

Supermans with one foot on the ball, the opposite hand on the floor with the other hand and foot both elevated are badass hard.

I'm a big fan of the swiss ball for weights work too.

[richdraws]

[Serpico]

Definitely not a gimmick, just go into any hospital physio therapy dept.

Cool, I didn't realise your shoulder stuff was for rehab/physio recommended...

It's not, things like the push ups on a Swiss are, but I was making the point about Swiss balls generally not being a gimmick and are used extensively by PTs.

[Stubbs]

Yeah went through a phase of using a swissball at the gym when i was working away from home - doing the supermans and swapping hands and feet over after ten seconds and doing three reps each side was one of the best core exercises I did, never thought about it in terms of shoulder stability thought - good shit.

[milksnake]

just got an email saying mine was ready for postage, logged onto the payment site only to find it dosnt accept my shitty debit card... 
dammit, i'm sure we'll sort something out but what a bummer...

[superfurrymonkey]

I'd just like to say thank to Dan etc for the swift delivery of my beastmaker it's up and I'm going to nail myself to the 45 degree slopers as this is probably the easiest way to hang them. 

[SA Chris]

I'd just like to say thank to Dan etc for the swift delivery of my beastmaker it's up and I'm going to nail myself to the 45 degree slopers as this is probably the easiest way to hang them. 

How you going to hammer in the second nail then?

(Neil - young ones - circa 1985)

[milksnake]

yeah, problem solved, should be on its way shortly, 
happy bunny now. I feel like a kid on christmas eve.

[superfurrymonkey]

Good point I'm going to go away and use my head and see if I can come up with a solution  

[milksnake]

perhaps you could modify a helmet so thast it has the head of hammer attached to it, then hammer the nails through you hands before headbutting yourself to the board?

[Falling Down]

I'm at the 7a/7a+ end of the 7a-7c climbers that the board is aimed at and can only do hangs and repeaters on the big slots, 20 deg slopers, big pockets and a combination of the little edges/bigger edge on the bottom row.

I took a spirit level to the board on Sunday after trying to hang the 45 deg slopers and thinking 'That's utterly desperate....'

Turns out the wall/arch I've hung my board on was about 10 degrees overhanging so it's no wonder everything felt hideously tricky.  I've since remounted with shims to straighten the board to vertical and I can now do repeaters/hang on the 35 degree slopers, smaller pockets and the outside edges on the bottom rung.  Still can't hang the 45 deg slopers though.

I've been easing in assisted hangs on the back two on my rock rings and beastmaker and can feel gains already.

[Monolith]

Q for Beastmaker HQ- what are we talking record times for hanging the 45s a)with nestle b) without.

[KH]

Tom,

I want to see this 17 second hang on the 45's.  Get it video'd.

What's you're secret to hanging them then?  I can't even 2 arm hang the 45's, I just keep slipping off!

[Monolith]

Eh up Kev. With nestles it's really not impressive at all and to be honest it's not even really that useful I suppose because a) I climb on grit around 1 day a year and b) I don't think I've ever spent 17 seconds or longer affixed to a problem. The only vaguely comparable sloper I need to hang in the long term is that of The Thing. Pretty sure there's people hanging them with nestles until the clocks go back?

P.S. I hope you don't think I'm one arm hanging them!?

[KH]

No Tom, I knew it was using both arms, but based on the fact that I can't stay on the 45's for a split second, I was very impressed with 17 seconds!

Hope all is well up north!  Will be up to see you all soon.

[Falling Down]

Hope this isn't another faulty powerball incident :-)

[Richie Crouch]

Nah I have watched the Mills in action and its sadly true! I can just about do 8-10 seconds now 

[Andy F]

Surely you can do more than that Rich? I can do 10 seconds on the 45 and I'm as strong as wet tissue.

[Stubbs]

Having hung off several beastmakers now, comparison between different beastmakers seems a bit pointless as they seem to vary so much. Not sure if this is down to amount of use/grain in wood/amount of brushing or what, but I've found a variation from barely being able to hang 35s to being able to hang the 45s for 15 seconds quite easily,