Quote from: SA Chris on May 08, 2009, 10:15:44 amHow do you fill a board with beer?They do a complete range of boards for home brewing and fine dining: The YeastMaker and The FeastMaker.
How do you fill a board with beer?
What this thread needs is more SCIENCE, what top end climbing training needs is more science.
Quote from: carlisle slapper on May 07, 2009, 04:45:27 pmWhat this thread needs is more SCIENCE, what top end climbing training needs is more science. More SCIENCE:http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/a2_pulley_biomechanics.pdfhttp://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/a2_pulley_friction.pdfhttp://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/lumbricals.pdf
Serpico, what do you think of that 'turntillburn' thing, as a training aid? (apologies for thread-drift!)
he has the board hanging at just less than vertical so that when you hang, the flex/stretch/creak brings it to just vertical.Although I'm not sure he has done this deliberately - that would be quite a lot of forethought for someone so blonde.
Also, I have never said thanks for the Lagers. So... THANKYOU!
9 sessions in 3 months? Without knowing more about your climbing/training patterns it sounds to me like your not doing enough volume on the finger board to see progression?
is a little bit of everything the main factor here? Gains are going to be very slow if you're doing so many different things. Some of which no doubt hinders recovery and progression in others. Hasn't it always been suggested to prioritise deadhanging in periods?
Quote from: stom on May 09, 2009, 12:02:48 pm9 sessions in 3 months? Without knowing more about your climbing/training patterns it sounds to me like your not doing enough volume on the finger board to see progression? Counting it up 10 fingerboard sessions in 10 weeks - so about once a week as part of a mixed bag of systems training, outdoor redpointing, indoor bouldering and a little campusing. The fingerboarding is the only activity where I havent seen gains. I expected to be a able to have completed all the sets and making it more difficult by now rather than being stuck at the same number of reps. Would you not expect to make gains if you did it once a week (as part of a bunch of other stuff) ?
Assuming 'repeaters' are a kind of lower end power endurance exercise there's that one. I've read that the jury is out on the merits of that exercise compared with the regime advocated by Goddard and Neumann, 25-40 second hangs to failure followed by up to a minute rest, repeated 12 times or so. Anyone got any experience of the effectiveness of either, or should I just settle for using the board to train strength and try to gain some endurance as best I can at a wall / through climbing?
I can't be arsed to read 8 pages)
Has anyone got/had metolius simulator and bought a beastmaker?How much better is it really? Are the slopers that delicious?
The slopers are awesome, but I am really stuggling to hang the second set; The third set ... forget it .