[andy_e]

Are you back in the UK now then?

[GCW]

How's Mighty Mouse going, Gareth?.

Done all the moves!  It's really sharp so I only get a few attempts.   Not helped by the footholds having all broken last year.

[r-man]

Yep, back in the UK, though not managing to climb much at the moment. Hopefully get out in the quarries in a couple of weeks.

[r-man]

Finally got round to cleaning the topout in The Pit at Wilton 1. What was once an impassible grass cornice is now a mountable ledge. The two right hand lines both have lovely moves, easier than I thought but still great climbing with high finishes.

Also, I was surprised to discover a couple of decent problems on a wall between The Pit and Snakey B. Still lots to do at Wilton. And there are the trad routes to play on too: Innominate makes a fun highball. I imagine Veteran Cosmic Rockers might, but I hurt my ankle so it'll have to wait - guidebook says start on left then finish on right - anyone have the beta on this?

[andy_e]

I vaguely remember pinching the arete with my left and coming around on to the right hand side of the arete like that. That could be cobblers though because it was ages ago that I was trying this.

[rginns]

Finally got round to cleaning the topout in The Pit at Wilton 1. What was once an impassible grass cornice is now a mountable ledge. The two right hand lines both have lovely moves, easier than I thought but still great climbing with high finishes.

Also, I was surprised to discover a couple of decent problems on a wall between The Pit and Snakey B. Still lots to do at Wilton. And there are the trad routes to play on too: Innominate makes a fun highball. I imagine Veteran Cosmic Rockers might, but I hurt my ankle so it'll have to wait - guidebook says start on left then finish on right - anyone have the beta on this?

Great stuff Robin, and welcome back. Good to see Wilton still giving plenty. I saw you on Tuesday walking in to W1 on my way to work and regretted the fact I had to go to work! Good to see you had a good day. Will have to get on these problems soon...

[Probes]

Veteran... layback left arete at eng 6c and if you rock up right onto the face 'easy' 6b (wilton 6b that is of course)! if i remember   ..

[r-man]

Great stuff Robin, and welcome back. Good to see Wilton still giving plenty. I saw you on Tuesday walking in to W1 on my way to work and regretted the fact I had to go to work! Good to see you had a good day. Will have to get on these problems soon...

Cheers Rick. Hopefully see you out there sometime. I think the righthand pair of Pit problems are really great, so if you have to pick, go for those first. Bring on some dry weather...

Veteran... layback left arete at eng 6c and if you rock up right onto the face 'easy' 6b (wilton 6b that is of course)! if i remember   ..

Guidebook suggests 6b for climbing on left and 6c finishing on right "past a series of dynamic pinch moves". Though the guidebook isn't always right...

[andy_e]

Are those pit problems the ones with the tricky moves into a crack or something that we tried ages ago? Rocking on to a high foothold or something wasn't it?

[Probes]

Great stuff Robin, and welcome back. Good to see Wilton still giving plenty. I saw you on Tuesday walking in to W1 on my way to work and regretted the fact I had to go to work! Good to see you had a good day. Will have to get on these problems soon...

Cheers Rick. Hopefully see you out there sometime. I think the righthand pair of Pit problems are really great, so if you have to pick, go for those first. Bring on some dry weather...

Veteran... layback left arete at eng 6c and if you rock up right onto the face 'easy' 6b (wilton 6b that is of course)! if i remember   ..

Guidebook suggests 6b for climbing on left and 6c finishing on right "past a series of dynamic pinch moves". Though the guidebook isn't always right...

I remember something being the wrong way round for sure.

[r-man]

Are those pit problems the ones with the tricky moves into a crack or something that we tried ages ago? Rocking on to a high foothold or something wasn't it?

Yeah, high rockover from the crack holds. We tried them years ago but couldn't figure out the sequence to get past the overlap.

I remember something being the wrong way round for sure.

Interesting. Think I only needed another move to hit the ledge on the left, but my pads were all in the wrong place.

[andy_e]

Hence why your ankle hurt? 

[r-man]

Some more from Wilton - this time a circuit round the prow. A few new problems, some old ones and some dodgy grades. Of the new stuff: Top Hat climbs the wall between crack and arete, Yoga for Climbers climbs the slab right of the crack, and Sidewalk takes the groove right of Flywalk, without holds left of the arete.

[GCW]

Went back today.  Failed on anything vaguely hard, but in general I'd agree with your grades.

Tried Yoga as a dyno fom the flatties, I'm sure it will go.  Fun move.

I also found an arete right of Remembrance Corner, which isn't in the guides and I can't find mentioned online.  It took ages to clean, so I'm assuming it's new.  Went at about 6c with a fun last move.  There's a sitter awaiting an ascent- I didn't try as I reopened my flapper and had to leave.  Potentially will go on its left side too.

[r-man]

Sorry, did that arete before with Mike Binks. Sequency, I vaguely remember. easier on the left than the right. Think we cleaned enough up to top out, but perhaps it's overgrown again. Didn't do the sitter though. There is more potential in the trench to the right, which I have recently cleaned up a little, but it usually seeps.

Beneath Deception was actually the slab without the arete - though it uses a sidepull very close to the arete, so I can see how that might have been confusing. Clamp was an eliminate, not using the big edges on the easy problem up the left, but perhaps it makes more sense as a non eliminate (I was looking at it as a seperate problem, but maybe that's daft of me).

Did you try Flywalk slab? The Yoga dyno looks huge.

[GCW]

Wow, that arete was so dirty it must get drainage or something.  I'll get back for the sitter at some point.  V2 seems a bit harsh thoiugh!!

BD- ah, didn't watch the video closely enough.  Won't make much difference to grade though.

Clamp seems more sensible as a non-eliminate, surely?

Flywalk Slab I got nowhere with.  Felt nails.  Yoga felt hard too, couldn't get that left foot in before the step up.  The dyno is hard, mainly as it's diffiocult to get any momentum.

[r-man]

V2 could be all wrong, but I don't remember a big move for the finish. I have an old video somewhere, perhaps I can dig it up.

BD is a grade or so harder without the arete (I thought arete was 5) - I think both versions are worthwhile.

Let's have Clamp as a non-eliminate then. Had my blinkers on there.

Flywalk Slab took me longer than I thought it would, though it's over after the first couple of moves. At uk6b I would have expected it to be easier than ft7A, I was guessing it might have been a grade for tall people - but maybe not if you find it hard too. Will have to get back and see if I can do it quickly now that I know the footholds.

Yoga can also be done with the same foot sequence, but left hand on the heigher gaston/crimp rather than the low razor edge.

Did you try Top Hat? Nice thin finish with just enough height to add interest.

[GCW]

I'll have to head back and have another try sometime, at all of them.

How did you do the V2 Arete thingy last move?  Couldn't see any other way of doing it.

[r-man]

How did you do the V2 Arete thingy last move?  Couldn't see any other way of doing it.

Dunno, it was about 6 years ago. Might be able to find the video, but might not.
_____

Over the road at Wilton 2, I did a really nice quarried arete, with some interesting positions and tenuous smears. Purple Feel, 7B. Only had my phone, so the quality isn't so good. The 2nd problem might only appeal to esotericologists, but I suspect that describes most people who boulder in the quarries.

[GCW]

Headed over to W2 today.  Purple Feel felt hard, although it was in the sun.  The first moves I can do from the low feet, it's the next move to the slot/ crimp that got me.  One to go back for, nice moves.

I did The Down Low via a different sequence- lanky keep the left heel on thingy, easier than 7a for me.  I added a lower (!) left start that felt 7a to me.

[r-man]

Nice - though does it blur the two problems somewhat - arete on left and arete on right? Will try that sequence next time.

Extension looks like it adds some good wrestling - shame this boulder isn't larger, those slick arete holds are great.

Purple Feel low feet - you mean the smears, or are you heel-hooking on the arete?

Standup is somewhere around 6C/7A maybe, move to crimp uses a high smear that for me only worked when I turned my knee to one side. After the crimp the rest is steady.

Is there such a thing as too lowball?

Maybe... A few metres left of The Down Low, before the Swine, are two more. One is a not very good tiny wall, with a one move lock off, 6C. Right of that is an undercut boulder started from the boss and solved by a dynamic mantleshelf manoeuvre - Rollover Jackpot - 7A?

[GCW]

Nice - though does it blur the two problems somewhat - arete on left and arete on right? Will try that sequence next time.   Extension looks like it adds some good wrestling - shame this boulder isn't larger, those slick arete holds are great.

I did think that, but it seemed slightly daft to do such a short arete on both sides, unless you avoid the heel out left.  The extension is fun, all in the feet.

Purple Feel low feet - you mean the smears, or are you heel-hooking on the arete?

I kept LF on smear, RF hooking arete and slapped up twice to get the good RH arete hold- you do extra foot moves for this.  I was then being a dunce about getting the slot. 

[GCW]

A couple of things on that block opposite The Prow.  Easy, but quite pleasant and quick drying:

[r-man]

A couple of new problems on the small roof in Wilton 3 - on the left as you enter. I dug out the top a few weeks ago, did the easier problem, but left the harder one alone after a few failed sessions on hot days. Yesterday it felt ok, so not sure about the grade.

The Starship Wilton, 7C
Sitstart at the slot, lurch to the lip and head for a finish up the slab, staying right of the good face holds to the left. The footledge is in, but if you are tall enough to keep your feet on it for the crux, the grade will be lower.

Scuffle Bucket, 7B
Sitstart at the lip of the slab and power upwards via the arete crimp.

[GCW]

R-man and I did a couple of new things today. The Arete left of Fingernail at about 6b. R-Man did the wall to the right, name and grade to follow.  I did the wall further right at about 7a, the hard bit being the sitter.