[r-man]

One for the quarry regulars here. I know there are least 2 of you. What other good problems are there in Wilton 1- here's my list so far

V6? - the line up the shield-shaped bit of rock on Chimney buttress
V6? - Soot Monkey
V6 -Snakey B
V5 - The Hacker start
V3 - The section of the traverse round the arete between Chimney buttress and the outside of the Prow, finishing on the ledge high on the left wall. Brilliant little problem this.
V3 - The line just right of Hacker, reaching into the Hacker ledge to finish (scary if you have to stand on tiptoes)

Oh, there's the 6b thing next to flywalk as well.Haven't tried that. And stuff in the pit -  would be really good with a clean.I tried to get to the top of the wall the other day to clean the top-out, but I just couldn't get past the grass! I clutched it and yanked it and tried to reach beneath it, but eventually I had to give up.

And does anyone know anything about Soot Monkey? Clm? I spent some time today reaching undercuts and being baffled. What are the holds? Are there holds?

[JR]

ffs do some routes, wilton one has routes matching the quality of 3* peak classics.  THe bouldering in wilton is log....

as for flywalk isnt that the direct start.  Goes at about E1 6a for the solo stint.

[andy_e]

you mean you went to wilton and didn't tell me? nasty  :roll:

[r-man]

Routes schmoutes. I don't enjoy faffing around with ropes and cowbells. If I had the balls I'd solo more, but I've already broken my wrist bouldering and I'd rather not break anything else.

Mr E, you grumped at Wilton 1 on Sunday, so I didn't think you'd be interested.

[webbo]

Mr E, you grumped at Wilton 1 on Sunday, so I didn't think you'd be interested.

it looks like you are finally developing some awareness of how good the bouldering is in those quarries Andi. :wink:

[JR]

Mr E, you grumped at Wilton 1 on Sunday, so I didn't think you'd be interested.

it looks like you are finally developing some awareness of how good the bouldering is in those quarries Andi. :wink:

my point entirely

[r-man]

He was grumping about the piece of rock I was getting enthusiastic about  looking unappealing. Surely it's the same for the routes?

Sheesh, all I really wanted was some beta for Soot Monkey. Let me have my fun, damn you. Berate me if I take up smoking or something. Or start killing people. I hear that's a faux pax in some parts. Though I guess I could always move to where Clm lives.

Soot Monkey is a route y'know. I just like the beginning of it...

[JR]

He was grumping about the piece of rock I was getting enthusiastic about  looking unappealing. Surely it's the same for the routes?

well yeah, but the routes are worthwhile and generally really good when you get on them despite the look.  Some of them even look good.

You said it all there, the bouldering is just the sit down start to the routes.... ;-)

[clm]

soot monkey needs an imaginative undercut and very high feet - it is quality.  the rest - you have just listed my circuit.  there are good probs beneath wombat and all.

[r-man]

soot monkey needs an imaginative undercut and very high feet - it is quality. the rest - you have just listed my circuit. there are good probs beneath wombat and all.

High feet eh? I was hpoing there might be a helpful hold somewhere. Ah well, it is supposed t be 6c I suppose...

Have to check out the wombat stuff. Last time I looked it was a bit damp. You ever done any of the stuff in the pit? There are a couple of great highballs up through the massive undercut. And possibly a very hard traverse. Like I said, I tried to clean off the top, but I couldn't get up there. Would be a great bit of rock if the top out was cleaned off.

[andy_e]

the lines may have been quality, but the setting was shit. imagine a fit bird in a ghetto as an analogy.

[r-man]

soot monkey needs an imaginative undercut and very high feet - it is quality.  the rest - you have just listed my circuit.  there are good probs beneath wombat and all.

Hmm, did Soot Monkey today. There's a rugosity you can undercling/sidepull for rh, is that what you meant? Also used a small sidepull for left. Good problem, though with those holds not as hard as I thought it would be.

Did most of the stuff on Chimney Buttress again todayand decided I was wrong about most of the grades before. How about:

The Hacker - V3 6a (it's easy when you know how)
The Hacker sitstart -V4/5 6b (nice move from sitting on the block, using a left hand pinch and right hand crimp, small pebble for right foot and small edger right of crack for left)
Hacker Right - V2 5c (up crack to right, crux reach to ledge of hacker)
Right on Centre - V2 5c (Sitstart right of Central route, up the shield, using good holds on both aretes.) ...still haven't done the problem up here without the aretes.
A Wombat Called Max - V3 6a (Between Max and Wombat Chimney, up to a good high flake)
Soot Monkey - V5 6b

Also cleaned up an arete on the Grey Wall to give a good V1 on the left and a V2 on the right, obviously been done before but both have nice moves. Had a look around there beneath Wombat Chimney - you're right there are several good possibilities. Will go back at some point and clean up a few. You done any before?

[MB]

Sorry r-man still think hacker start is V2. That arete on the grey wall is right of rememberence corner.

[r-man]

Sorry r-man still think hacker start is V2. That arete on the grey wall is right of rememberence corner.

Only cos I gave you such good beta. :wink:  Yeah,you may be right, I dunno. See what clm and andi_e think...

[andy_e]

Sorry r-man still think hacker start is V2. That arete on the grey wall is right of rememberence corner.

Only cos I gave you such good beta. :wink:  Yeah,you may be right, I dunno. See what clm and andi_e think...

it's obvious;y gonna be V2 5c ike everything else.