[r-man]

A few from Healey Nab. Some old, some new.

[andy_e]

Nice sequence on that last problem! The 7C looks ace. Is Encore new? That looks good too.

[r-man]

Yep, Encore's new. Decent circuit at the Nab. Still a couple of projects too. 

[GCW]

Interestingly, that's how I did Scrunch rather than your original method.
Encore I was trying with a left heel on the rail and rocking up statically.  Why didn't I just jump?!??

[Chriswo770]

My first couple of projects & my first vid to boot. Some link ups (as suggested on the topo) completed and given a name, a new straight up and the old classic of the crag.

[r-man]

Nice one! I was there recently and saw some chalk on the holds. Well done on the linkups.

On Temple of the Tooth, are you going to the crack hold, rather than up the arete as per Rock This Country?

What did you reckon to Whodunnit? I did it again and thought the grade was too big - how hard did it feel to you? There's also a good move going from the starting Whodunnit sloper to the high crimp. I did problem 6 in the topo too, not much of a line, but something else to play on.

There are some nice problems on the other side of the valley as well - I'd never really given them much time before, but it's not a bad little circuit, if you don't mind doing battle with a bit of heather and a few slopey landings. There were a couple of highballs on the right-most block that I was too scared to do without more pads and spotters. Tried any of these? The ones up the centre look tough.

[Chriswo770]

Cheers (r-)man, had fun working the linkups, good moves & always left me with a reason to go back.

On Temple of the Tooth you're right, I am using the crack hold rather than the arete, the general idea was
Armed to the Teeth & Rock this Country = Temple of the Tooth
Armed to the Teeth & Oli's  Problem = A Better Tomorrow

WhoDunnit was quite satisfying as I'd been close a couple of times before and once I committed it sent quite nicely, I would agree though it felt light for the grade, closer to a 7a me thinks. But i gotta try the sloper to good crimp! - sounds hard.

The only other thing I'm trying up there at the mo is a one mover (aka GhettoGun). Start as you would Oli's problem, hands on downward sloping jug, high right foot on the nice point just left of the large right facing gaston, then instead of throwing yourself at the crimp with your right hand ( as in Oli's problem) go up with the left to a small right facing gaston (part of a small triangular shaped relief on the face) maybe a little higher & right of the crack hold used on Rock this Country, after you latch that and bring the crimp I imagine you'd reach for the top jug ( as in Oli's problem) with your right to finish. Only a one mover but I like the move, feels good as you latch & try to generate the tension between your hand and right foot to keep you on.

Regarding the other side I haven't had a look yet, but by the sounds of it it's worth a shout, so it's on the list, if I work anything of merit I'll post it : )

[r-man]

Lee Quarry additions.

[r-man]

Troy Quarry additions.

[r-man]

A new one from Stronstrey. I think this one is really good. Great holds and quite technical.



The left arete is also good at around 6C+ from sitting, or 7A+ without the big hole (used to be a crimp there but it came out when I wiggled it), and the wall to the left is a pleasant 6Bish sitter.

[GCW]

Should've had another visit, Nik!!

[r-man]

Blimey, competition for a quarry project! It's only taken 7 years since I first had a go...  What sequence were you and Nik trying? Looked like there were a couple of cleaned holds on the rib, though I'm glad it goes straight up as it keeps you over the good landing.

[GCW]

We were going a little further right, matching that sloper and snatching to a sidepull edge out right, then a dyno to the "break".  If my memory serves, that is- Nik?
We left it for a bit when a vital large foothold fell off, making our sequence about 8a.

EDIT:  basically we did what you do up to 0:25 then dropped down to match the sloper by using a decent right foothold low down.

[r-man]

Interesting. I haven't tried but I did wonder if a right hand version might just be possible, from a sitter using the RH start hold of Hellebore for LH. If it's possible, this would probably lead into your finishing sequence.

[nik at work]

What G says sounds right. We went further right. Nice problem, as is Mirth of Ducks and David Vetter. Couple of routes to go there yet as well...

[JamieG]

At the weekend my brother and I went to Stronstrey Quarry armed with GCW's guide and had a potter around. Quite a lot of things were pretty damp so we ended up climbing an arete on the left at the entrance to the main quarry. It is just up the hill from Wurzel Gummidge (I think). It is fairly highball. It think it is possibly Reunion Wilderness on its left. It says it can be climbed on its right as well at (3+) however if you eliminate the big jug at the bottom of the scoop out right. It is significantly harder and leads to some lovely delicate layback climbing quite high above a slopey landing (around 6c ish). Just wondering if anyone else has tried it, since it would make a lovely addition to the crag. Cheers Jamie

[GCW]

Reunion Winderness climbs the left side, the right side has been claimed as Ellie at HS 4a, which I presume wasn't eliminate.

How did you get along with the guide/ Stronstrey?  Has David Vetter returned to its original green state yet?  I think there's a nice circuit up there now.  Repeats and grade comments welcome!!

[JamieG]

Not too bad thanks. Took us a wee while to orientate ourselves, since we only had the low res version of the guide and the printer hadn't helped matters. Nice little venue. A few things for us to have a go at when we go back.

David Vetter was looking pretty green and wet, but looks like a great line. We also scoped out the mirth of ducks, and a few pull ons but it was a bit damp and seems pretty hard. One other thing we spotted was the massive blank slab in the middle of the left hand side of the quarry. The landing has be levelled (patio-ed) quite a bit, but that looks amazing and hard.

You're probably right about Ellie. HS 4a with the jug would be about right. Without the jug though it is a really class problem. Best arete I've climbed in awhile, doesn't feel too eliminate either.

[r-man]

Good effort on the arete. That's a nice fast drying buttress, shame it's not got more lines on it.

The slab goes at 6Cish up decent edges on its left, without the block on the left. I think I have a sequence for the middle, but I haven't been back due to a month of crap weather. Up the right arete would probably be good, but getting pretty highball.

[JamieG]

Yeah good little venue, shame it was pretty damp. Thanks for the knowledge r-man and gcw. Waddage awarded.

I'll have a look at the slab next time i'm up there (and its dry!).

[GCW]

Topo link.  May be better quality?

[andy_e]

The pictures on page 7 and 9 are the same.

[GCW]

Ah, hadn't niticed.  This must be the mid-mid revision.  I'll have to search my hard drive at home at some point.

[r-man]

Turns out I climbed a new one at Cow's Mouth. Nyan Cat, 7A.

Bruce Goodwin tells me this might have been bolted in the 60's and tried in the 70's when the E3 Three Little Piggies (crack to the right) was climbed, but then abandoned as it was a bit too hard. The bolt has long since rusted to a stump, but the climb is well worth doing as a highball/solo. It's a classy leaning crimp path, and fairly safe with the current snow drift. When the snow goes, I imagine the top might be a bit scarier.

[Probes]

That looks good