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[Lancashire] [Various] [6C - 7B+] Various (with video) (Read 137184 times)

GCW

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A much better line than Careless Torque.

clm

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A much better line than Careless Torque.

That problem basically is careless torque, just with a sit start.

GCW

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Does anyone know anything about Parbold Quarry?  It's pretty close by for me, and I've just noticed there's been some bouldering done there according to the pics on UKC.  Is it worth a look?

BenF

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I'd say its worth a look.  Only know a bit about the routes there and haven't been for many years, but I vaguely remember that the rock is pretty good in places.  Do check it out and report back.   ;)

GCW

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Yes boss!!

May have a look sometime, bit busy over the next couple of weeks though.

EDIT:  Just found this old thread.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2012, 01:15:44 pm by GCW »

r-man

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Seen those ukc photos before - a few straight ups from 7a-7c, and still a project or two. Got to be worth a look. Googlemap tells me I can get there in 23min, so give me a shout if you head down.

Recent ukc thread suggests someone has been giving it some attention recently - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=498356&v=1

Looks like you'd want the problem descriptions from the crag page, not just the photo topos.

James Jennings seems to have developed all the harder stuff a year ago, so I guess it should still be fairly clean.

GCW

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I'll text you if I am heading over there.

Big Dave

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It looks a lot cleaner since I last went there (top roping 18 years ago!)

GCW

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Been to Parbold today.  It's OK, one wall (mentalist) is nice, and currently clean.  It's a little manky in some of the slots. I personally think the grades are a little soft.  Worth a visit if you're local.


r-man

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Good effort checking it out. The main wall looks alright. What did you reckon to the V9? And the project?

Looking at the pics and descriptions, I think both Vesuvius problem rock round the arete lower down, then finish up the slabby side.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=187340

Quote from: GCW's blog
I had a look at Parbold Hill Quarry, which isn't in the Brick that I've found

Think it's in the Merseyside and Chesire guide, not the brick, dunno why.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2012, 12:02:01 am by r-man »

GCW

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Oh.  The description for Vesuvius BC just said use the fatty and corner of arête only. Didn't mention going round right?  I have messaged James for info.

The V9 direct on Mentalist felt about 7b to me, although the way I was trying it was via lank. I think it may have been done using a crappy undercut side pull thing.

GCW

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Re-reading the descriptions Vesuvius Base Camp is what I thought I'd done.  Vesuvius apparently does as you say, and round the arete to finish up the wall.  In which case feet would be on the bottom block for the last bit so eliminating the back wall like I did would seem silly?   :shrug:

r-man

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Hmm. Looks to me like VBC is just an eliminate on V, also finishing round the arete.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=170084&lgn=9810

GCW

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Not sure.  I wonder if Vesuvius stays lower?  I just did what seemed logical at the time.

Mentalist wall is better for independant lines.

Big Dave

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Think it's in the Merseyside and Chesire guide,

It is, but no bouldering, just routes from what I remember, will check later...


r-man

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Did a few things on the pinnacle at Lester Mill. Easier stuff probably done before. Approach: follow the main path to the left end of the quarry, then turn uphill on a steep track. The pinnacle is on the left. Two pads recommended.




r-man

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Just to keep everything in one place...New topo and a little video for Crag Stones in the Forest of Bowland. Thread here - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20114.msg362704.html#msg362704
« Last Edit: May 19, 2012, 11:43:01 pm by r-man »

r-man

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Did a good trav at the Cadshaw River blocks. These are bone dry right now, and stay cool due to the nearby water and perma-shade. A good place to escape the heat. Catches a breeze so not particularly midgey either.



GCW

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Looks interesting.

Did you try Rivers of Blood sitter?  Make sure you match the face crimps!!

r-man

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No, had limited time, but it's on my list. Why match the face crimps - is it eliminate? Thought it was just the wall without the arete. Looking at how stretched you are in your vid, I suspect I might need to do some jumping. Guess I'll have to try it and see...

GCW

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Yes, it's utterly full stretch for me.  I found after that you can get the crimp I use for the left hand with your right and dyno to get the good edge with your left.  Still hard though.  My project link of RoB sitter into Jump arete will stop any of those shenanagins!!

It's only eliminate in that no arete holds are in.  I'd be interested in your thoughts on grade,  i found it hard.

r-man

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Cleaned up a nice collection of problems in the mighty Hoghton yesterday. Good place to escape the sun. If anyone fancies a bash, there are two weeks left till access is closed for the year. Still the odd line left to do, and if any frankenjura fiends are reading, there's a possible rising traverse on drilled monos that will be super hard. Anyway, here are a few of the problems...


Fiend

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Some of those look pretty good lines!

r-man

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Weird that no one has bothered before (apart from some easier stuff on the lower tier). Though I have to admit, the trad there does look amazing. I read somewhere that Hoghton is the highest grit crag in the country. Impressive place, and good effort to people for cleaning it up despite restrictive access periods.

I like this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=179295&lgn=9810

r-man

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Here's a small venue I discovered on googlemaps, about 30 problems, mainly sitters, in a scenic location next to reservoir. (Just down the road from Summit Quarry, between Todmorden and Littleborough).



 

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