[r-man]

Yes, I tried it briefly. Like I said, I think it's still doable. Very rough guess - 7C/7C+, but I could be wrong.

[GCW]

I feel a re-match coming on.......

I thought RoB 7b+/7c. Linking into Jump Arête felt 7c/7c+. So maybe now everything is a tad more tricky!

[r-man]

Get that woody built!

By the way, I don't think the foothold loss will have changed RoB for me, ie. my grade guess is not a guess at difficulty change, just a guess at difficulty. Good effort climbing it! I'd be keen to have a proper session on it when the midges have gone away. Cleaned up a few other projects at Cadshaw too, so there should be plenty to do when it comes into season.

[GCW]

I think it's rather morpho.

I'd be keen to get on Rick's Arête, the groove over the river and the river block stuff.

[rginns]

Went down very briefly yesterday, midges were hell.

Brian Jacques first move feels significantly harder than it was I'd say...

[GCW]

Where do you put your feet now?

[rginns]

Where do you put your feet now?

Instead of pulling up straight to the RH sidepull with LF in the crack, I used a tiny crimp out left for the RF and pasted LF on the wall, sort of swinging right to the same sidepull. Feels nails, but that could just be me.

[GCW]

Is that the little dink I use for my left foot on RoB and Jump Arete?  Tiny thing that!

[rginns]

Is that the little dink I use for my left foot on RoB and Jump Arete?  Tiny thing that!

yes, your starting LF.
Annoyingly it would be better if it were a little further left, pulling up on the LH is a bitch, and you're sort of already facing left, which makes the whole sequence moving right a bit cacky. Ah well...

[GCW]

Stronstrey bouldering:

[r-man]

Nice. I like Stronstrey. Did you do TREEEOH recently, or is this all old footage?

[rginns]

psyched.

[GCW]

It's all old stuff I'm afraid.

I like Stronstrey too, has a really nice feel about it.

[rginns]

It's all old stuff I'm afraid.
I like Stronstrey too, has a really nice feel about it.

+1

What's the landing like on Mirth of the Ducks Gareth?

[r-man]

It slopes downwards from the rock a little, making the problem feel higher than it is. I found that one folded pad for the dip + one pad on top worked well.

[rginns]

It slopes downwards from the rock a little, making the problem feel higher than it is. I found that one folded pad for the dip + one pad on top worked well.

Thanks Robin

[GCW]

Yes, it's an OK landing with a couple of pads but it feels oddly high!

[gardinrm]

Was at Cadshaw again today and find Brian Jacques hard, though the broken foothold isn't the issue for me. I am finding it really tricky once you have the arete and the RH crimp to pull up without swinging off and then to lock the RH to take left hand off the Arete and reach up to the next hold. I know Gareth ignores the crimps and goes straight for the higher hold with RH but i can't reach that far. Any ideas? Don't reckon the fact it was the hottest day of the year helps.
Next i went up towards the River blocks because i knew it would be cooler and also to have a look at a line i had spotted last time i was there. It's a block actually in the river just below the other river blocks and has a lovely looking overhanging arete. It looks to me like someone had piled rocks up so it's dry which makes me think its been climbed before. I was having a great time trying it, but it needs a good old clean because it's absolutely filthy. I'll go back next time with a proper brush and have a go, but it felt pretty nice. Sorry i didn't take a picture. Does anyone know what i mean?

[r-man]

Was at Cadshaw again today and find Brian Jacques hard, though the broken foothold isn't the issue for me. I am finding it really tricky once you have the arete and the RH crimp to pull up without swinging off and then to lock the RH to take left hand off the Arete and reach up to the next hold. I know Gareth ignores the crimps and goes straight for the higher hold with RH but i can't reach that far. Any ideas? Don't reckon the fact it was the hottest day of the year helps.
Next i went up towards the River blocks because i knew it would be cooler and also to have a look at a line i had spotted last time i was there. It's a block actually in the river just below the other river blocks and has a lovely looking overhanging arete. It looks to me like someone had piled rocks up so it's dry which makes me think its been climbed before. I was having a great time trying it, but it needs a good old clean because it's absolutely filthy. I'll go back next time with a proper brush and have a go, but it felt pretty nice. Sorry i didn't take a picture. Does anyone know what i mean?

No midges? I've been staying away because they are usually awful in summer. Good effort if you just ignored them - I looked like I had measles when I went a few weeks ago.

Anyway, on BJ I lock off for the sloper just right of the arete - have you tried that? You can probably do it fairly dynamically, it's quite a good hold. Then a high foot and rockover.



As for the river boulder, I've been there a few times this year, cleaning it up and making a dry landing. I pulled a giant loose flake off once which was quite exciting - really wouldn't have been fun if that had landed on you. I'm sure it could use some more cleaning. So no, not been climbed, haven't actually tried it yet, but go for it, I'd be psyched to hear it's been done.

[GCW]

I have also done Brian Jacques via Robin's sequence but it felt tough at the grade for me.  Really bone that right hand edge!!

Did you try Rivers of Blood or Jump Arete?

[gardinrm]

Thanks again guys. Reckon if i can't climb Brian Jacques i don't have a shot at the others. It was very warm so i couldn't get much out of the crimp. The river block problem looked pretty good. I'm not exactly sure what to so, but i was avoiding holds because they were dirty so i'll try give it a proper clean and get back to you. Talking of first assents, i'm going up to the very north west of scotland for some adventure bouldering next week. So the midges at Cadshaw were pathetic. Just bath in joungle formula, thats the secret. That being said, my brother and i tried the Wiltons the other week and it was so bad we had a strop and little girl argument.

[gardinrm]

Went to Cadshaw again today and just climbed 2 little problems on a small pyramid shaped block just before the main blocks at the river blocks. I cleaned away a bunch of moss and vegetation and reckon they're pretty nice. Left hand arete is very easy but nice climbing. The right hand is harder because there is nothing for your feet. Had to just pull up on the slopey arete to put right heel straight on, then could move up the arete and eventually catch the left hand arete to top out. Nice little problems made more tricky by damp mud still on the blocks. The main project i wanted to do is below this again in the stream but the mud that was there last time was now damp after the rain. I had a good old clean up of it tho so hopefully it will be ready for a climb soon. I'll post a video when/if i do it and add it to the ones i climbed today.

[r-man]

Good stuff! There will be a decent collection of problems around the river when they all get cleaned up.

Is this the hanging block in the river bank, left of the project steep arete? Or something else?

[gardinrm]

It's something else, it's actually in the river. I'll post the video when i do the problem and if i don't do it soon i'll post a picture.

[gardinrm]

Here is a very short video of 2 new little problems at Cadshaw River blocks. Quite fun really.