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significant repeats (Read 5003812 times)

shark

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#9325 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 08:39:04 pm
Past it

Adam Lincoln

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moose

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#9327 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 09:56:05 pm
 I now feel slightly less emasculated by the memory of him as a 12 y.o, stepping in to climb on my draws, and rinsing my multi-year project in short order (I really wish I'd taken up climbing before I was 27 yo... then I might only be crap...).

cheque

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#9328 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 11:13:22 pm
I really wish I'd taken up climbing before I was 27 yo... then I might only be crap....

:boohoo: I can only assume you’re working off the “having the most fun” measurement of being a good climber here.

remus

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#9329 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 11:16:20 pm
Waddage! 2 new entrants to the 9a club in the space of 4 days!

Nibile

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#9330 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2020, 08:39:06 am
Gioia for Niki Ceria.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIyIHSCDGpL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
On his own, doin' his thing. Legendary.
With some thoughts on kneebars.

teestub

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#9331 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2020, 08:56:45 am
He’s hoovering up all the hard stuff in Swizzy and Italy, so impressive and such a great climbing style.

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#9332 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2020, 08:17:05 pm
Repeat of Sleepwalker V16 by relatively unknown Nathan Williams:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJWnAMFDVYO/?igshid=16ugrv8ddqdtr

turnipturned

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#9333 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2020, 09:43:47 pm
Ah awesome. I climbed with Nathan in rocklands years ago, he must have been 14 or so and was very impressive back then!

Ross Barker

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#9334 Re: significant repeats
December 28, 2020, 10:42:32 pm
Another ascent of sleepwalker is mint, the sequence looks amazing on it.

According to UKC's 2020 roundup, Micky Page has got the second ascent of The Boss, as well, which is fantastic.

Teaboy

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#9335 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 12:55:10 pm
I know grit head pointing is a bit passé but surprised this hasn’t been mentioned. Harder Faster strikes me as one of the most terrifying routes around and grit E8 by a woman still very thin on the ground. Repeats by James Pearson (Harder Faster) and Caroline Ciavaldini (Gaia) for anyone who doesn’t want to click on the link

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/12/hard_grit_repeats_by_james_pearson_and_caroline_ciavaldini-72675

shurt

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#9336 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 02:57:08 pm
Harder Faster is a total and utter chop route, fair dos. Amazing.

bigironhorse

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#9337 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 05:19:17 pm
That footage of Harder Faster in Consumed (?) always gives me the willies.

Fiend

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#9338 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 06:56:35 pm
That footage of Harder Faster in Consumed (?) always gives me the willies.
Yup Consumed, it's brilliant that. The grey day and the eerie background noises.

I don't think headpointing scarcely repeated E9 death routes is *that* passe. It's hardly a sort of send-train bellend low-hanging fruit tick sort of route!

Has anyone looked at the true direct finish to Gaia i.e. keeping teetering up the groove to the bleached arrow head lip above??

remus

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#9339 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:03:24 pm
Is it definitely consumed? I had a quick flick through it on yt and couldn't spot it (there's is some fairly harrowing footage of Gaia on there though). Would love a timestamp if anyone can be bothered.


Fiend

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#9340 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:07:17 pm
I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:


cheque

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#9341 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:17:50 pm
When I was making Stonnis I couldn’t find anyone who’d entertain the idea of Harder Faster, even people who’d climbed that grade and had tried it on toprope. One told me that trying it had given them nightmares and someone else (I forget who) told me that there’s a good argument for it being closer to E10.

Wood FT

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#9342 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:28:41 pm
I’ve heard the same.

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#9343 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 07:38:18 pm
I remember watching Toby do it in 2003 and he made it look pretty casual. I remember the weather was shit as it was a bit drizzly and my camera lens was getting damp, plus it was going dark... He just romped up it. I can remember so clearly how he stood on top and flexed. RIP my friend.


Teaboy

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#9344 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 08:10:44 pm
I remember watching Toby do it in 2003 and he made it look pretty casual. I remember the weather was shit as it was a bit drizzly and my camera lens was getting damp, plus it was going dark... He just romped up it. I can remember so clearly how he stood on top and flexed. RIP my friend.

Do you have any photos of his ascent?

I'd not seen the footage posted above and it looks harrowing as I imagined, seems like harder version of Thin Air with a much bigger ground fall and no feet.

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#9345 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 08:29:23 pm
I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:



Dan filmed it but using my camera. Irish Si did Gaia same day then the mist came in.

36chambers

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#9346 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 08:43:33 pm
I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:


I'm pretty sure it was in Shock of the New, the other feature length that used to be on the crimperE6 youtube channel. I can't find it at the moment, must have been taken down :(

Fiend

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#9347 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 09:03:46 pm
It was definitely one of the two then ;)

MaxiMuscle t-shirts and flexing on top, I bet Keenus didn't do any of that....

shark

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#9348 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2021, 07:20:27 pm
When I was making Stonnis I couldn’t find anyone who’d entertain the idea of Harder Faster, even people who’d climbed that grade and had tried it on toprope. One told me that trying it had given them nightmares and someone else (I forget who) told me that there’s a good argument for it being closer to E10.

Was it Seb as he wondered that when we were chatting shit a couple of weeks ago?

Also Franco has confirmed on ukc that Adam Watson repeated it 8 years ago which I don’t think was reported at the time.

remus

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#9349 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2021, 07:49:17 pm
Seb's left a comment to that affect in the ukc logbook so could well be.

 

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