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significant repeats (Read 4049354 times)

jwi

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#9300 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 02:11:26 pm
Laura Ragora has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's The Bow, 9a+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH7kLYvjUZM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

there you go. A real 9b climber does 9a+ like is nothing special.

Back to Akira. It's apparently a lot easier  if you use kneepads but both the 2nd and 3rd ascensionist refrained

ferret

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#9301 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 02:46:04 pm
Odd to think that Andrada couldn't at least come close to banging out a 7C into an 8b. Didn't he make some comments about Fred glueing the holds on the start to make them smaller? Maybe he just wasn't in to long boulders in caves with short routes at the end. No that doesn't seem right.
Also Phil Gondoux did the fa of Ali Baba the extension to which was Laura Ragoras 1st 9b, so it's all linked....!
Also also does this kneebar info mean we can add another 10 pages to the Hubble thread?

remus

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#9302 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 02:55:43 pm
Odd to think that Andrada couldn't at least come close to banging out a 7C into an 8b. Didn't he make some comments about Fred glueing the holds on the start to make them smaller? Maybe he just wasn't in to long boulders in caves with short routes at the end. No that doesn't seem right.
Also Phil Gondoux did the fa of Ali Baba the extension to which was Laura Ragoras 1st 9b, so it's all linked....!
Also also does this kneebar info mean we can add another 10 pages to the Hubble thread?

If Hubble climbed Akira Total Extension Plus but didn't use kneepads, does that make the grade Seb Bouin or Seb Bouin/+?

gme

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#9303 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 03:04:58 pm
Odd to think that Andrada couldn't at least come close to banging out a 7C into an 8b. Didn't he make some comments about Fred glueing the holds on the start to make them smaller? Maybe he just wasn't in to long boulders in caves with short routes at the end. No that doesn't seem right.
Also Phil Gondoux did the fa of Ali Baba the extension to which was Laura Ragoras 1st 9b, so it's all linked....!
Also also does this kneebar info mean we can add another 10 pages to the Hubble thread?

Its all irrelevant now as its been repeated and downgraded to 9a which sounds realistic and in line with world standards at the time. Good effort Seb as we can put to rest one of the great mystery routes of the last 30 years.

This and chilam done and sorted just one big ? route left to my knowledge and a long list of UK boulder problems all linked to the same person.

ferret

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#9304 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 03:27:32 pm
Good luck getting Seb Bouin over here to try Il Pirata!

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#9305 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 04:23:46 pm
Does this make mutation the 1st 9b in the world?  :worms:  ;D

jwi

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#9306 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 05:49:10 pm
Quote from: Dani Andrada
I almost did it [Akira]. I fell at the last move of the boulder crux. I find that section hard for 7C as Bouin and Martinez have now proposed. It's a boulder of about eight moves, which can be 8A or 8A+ in my opinion. I think the proposal of 9a is correct taking into account that they may have made some moves with kneebars as well. I went 7 or 8 days to try it. The place is quite ugly and I had a hard time finding someone to accompany me. The route is in the same style as Ali Hulk in the Cave of Ali Baba, in Rodellar, but the spot is so ugly that it is difficult to motivate oneself to go there.
via: https://woguclimbing.com/seb-bouin-lucien-martinez-repiten-akira-opinan-9a/

teestub

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#9307 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 06:25:07 pm
I mean yeah thereís a big quarry opposite it by the looks of it but itís not exactly West Vale! Grotte de Vilhonneur (Akira)
Grotte de, Rochebertier, 16220, France
https://goo.gl/maps/4MQAZaZDGgYHKEvj9

jwi

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#9308 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 06:35:07 pm
Andrada lives in Cornudella. He might have higher standards...

dunnyg

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#9309 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 06:40:38 pm
Oi! West vale is a little slice of heaven. If you must lay into a crag, make sure it is one of those lancashire pits made of seepage and burnt out cars (or mixenenden quarry), or that people infested shite that passes for rock in the peak.

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#9310 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 07:16:18 pm
I mean yeah thereís a big quarry opposite it by the looks of it but itís not exactly West Vale! Grotte de Vilhonneur (Akira)
Grotte de, Rochebertier, 16220, France
https://goo.gl/maps/4MQAZaZDGgYHKEvj9

Does Akira sit within Franceís equivalent of Leicestershire?

webbo

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#9311 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 07:25:12 pm
No itís in the bit that was part of the English empire.

jwi

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#9312 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2020, 03:06:41 pm
The difference in opinion a between Martinez/Bouin on one hand and Andrada on the other hand on the boulder grade of the hard bit of Akira is probably down to unclear communication via instagram...

Lucien Martinez has written a fairly long article on their ascents, with a lot of breakdown of the difficulty at https://www.grimper.com/news-25-ans-apres-akira-enfin-repetee-etions that seems to agree completely with Andrada's opinions.


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#9313 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2020, 03:16:48 pm
Did he basically say the start is a 7B boulder straight into a 7C adding up to around 8A+ in 15 moves, followed by an 8b route or long 7C boulder (followed by some easy climbing)? Not got translate option on my phone!

Sounds like a great effort from Rouhling at the time.

nai

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#9314 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2020, 03:35:03 pm
Quote
It starts with ten movements in 7B block followed by a very physical 7C block of 5/6 moves. The total could be worth 8A + block over about 15 moves. Small relaxation hung on a ferry and it left for a little fifteen moves, still in the ceiling, gymnastic but less hard, which could be compared to something like an 8b lane or a very long 7C boulder. Exiting the roof

They avoided knee pads but were prepared to use a ferry

jwi

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#9315 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2020, 04:02:58 pm
Did he basically say the start is a 7B boulder straight into a 7C adding up to around 8A+ in 15 moves, followed by an 8b route or long 7C boulder (followed by some easy climbing)?

Yup.

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#9316 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2020, 04:24:42 pm
Did he basically say the start is a 7B boulder straight into a 7C adding up to around 8A+ in 15 moves, followed by an 8b route or long 7C boulder (followed by some easy climbing)? Not got translate option on my phone!

Sounds like a great effort from Rouhling at the time.

So it turns out that Phil's breakdown of 8B to a crap rest to 8b (assuming I likely mis-interpreted/remembered the 8B-8b) was not far off the mark then

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#9317 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2020, 05:23:52 pm
On the subject of Rouhling Routes, this was at the bottom of the same article:



Drilled pockets, controversy, blah blah, still can't argue with the flamboyance of the route nor the shapeliness of the buttress.

submaximal gains

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#9318 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2020, 11:36:45 am
Seb Bouin repeated another of Red Rhouling's routes 2 days ago, The other side of the sky (De líautre CŰtť du Ciel) 9a, also at les Eaux Claires https://www.instagram.com/p/CIIK9Rsj_sc/

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#9319 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2020, 11:55:41 am
On the subject of Rouhling Routes, this was at the bottom of the same article:



Drilled pockets, controversy, blah blah, still can't argue with the flamboyance of the route nor the shapeliness of the buttress.

That is probably the most quintessentially French clip of climbing I've ever seen. Allez allez allez, clipping with no feet on, flamboyant jumping between pockets. Great stuff.

ian dunn

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#9320 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2020, 09:03:27 pm
Rainshadow 9a for Toby Roberts (15) in December too battling short days and cool conditions

dunnyg

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#9321 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2020, 09:34:18 pm
Sounds more fun than school.

spidermonkey09

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#9322 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 04:42:02 pm
Josh Ibbertson has done Rainshadow now as well. Beast.

shark

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#9323 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 07:08:06 pm
Wow. Heís about the same age as Toby too.

Adam Lincoln

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#9324 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2020, 08:22:07 pm
17 in spring

 

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