UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4381428 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#6275 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2015, 01:36:10 pm
Surprised this hasn't cropped up anywhere else (that I've seen)

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/andy-kirkpatrick-solos-sea-of-dreams-on-el-cap

Significant and a bit bonkers!

Edit - was reported on UKC

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5541
  • Karma: +347/-5
#6276 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2015, 01:40:24 pm
Here ya' go.  This is an incredible achievement - typical of the Brit scene to know nothing about it.

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/isabelle-faus-sends-amandla-v14?A=WebApp&CCID=5851&Page=2&Items=500

Also - I was wondering where Fred had got to.  Looks like he's up to his old tricks again.

I've always thought this looked like a really beautiful thing; the epitome of a boulder problem.

CJDavies

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Crimp Brusher.
  • Posts: 38
  • Karma: +2/-0
  • Crime: Not owning a video camera.
#6277 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2015, 02:27:54 pm
Your not wrong Andy.  It's awesome - a proper finger test.

That guy looks like Leroy Desroy, who I think may have sent this some time ago?  I could be wrong about that.  They should get him over to Pex - he'd have a great time.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#6278 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2015, 03:00:52 pm

That guy looks like Leroy Desroy

It's Nacho Sanchez, who lived in Sheffield for a while?

Durbs

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1009
  • Karma: +33/-1
#6279 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2015, 05:25:40 pm
Good effort Ms Faus, whoever she is.

I thought she was DG's missus, but appears to be Chad Greedy's lady. Not that I wish to in anyway identify a lady by who she is going out with, but she climbs in strong circles :)

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1685
  • Karma: +154/-4
#6280 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2015, 05:44:25 pm
Good effort Ms Faus, whoever she is.

I thought she was DG's missus, but appears to be Chad Greedy's lady. Not that I wish to in anyway identify a lady by who she is going out with, but she climbs in strong circles :)

DG's girlfriend isn't quite a wad, she climbs around 6C

peewee

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Wilko Baggins
  • Posts: 477
  • Karma: +75/-1
  • If in doubt, Lock it out (Dynamically)
#6281 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 11:14:07 am
Think it's worth a mention that James Noble has done Golden Shadow in Rocklands  :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench:

bendavison

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 338
  • Karma: +19/-0
#6282 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 11:16:13 am
Beast!

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1690
  • Karma: +63/-1
#6283 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 11:18:30 am
Alex Megos repeated Ondra's "Thors Hammer", 9a+, in the Flatanger Cave yesterday.

Said it felt hard compared to other routes of the grade.

Source was his facebook which I can't link to at the moment. Reported on UKC also.

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1838
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#6284 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 11:47:22 am
Think it's worth a mention that James Noble has done Golden Shadow in Rocklands  :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench:

With the original (better and harder) left hand finish too.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#6285 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 02:20:44 pm
Hard for 9a+! Great comment

Go Joble  :strongbench:

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4240
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#6286 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 03:17:33 pm
Alex Megos repeated Ondra's "Thors Hammer", 9a+, in the Flatanger Cave yesterday.

Said it felt hard compared to other routes of the grade.


Quote from: Alex Megos
BÄÄÄM!!! First repeat of "Thors Hammer" 9a+ in the Flatanger Cave is done! Felt harder then the other routes I've done in that grade. Took me 3 days to link the over 60m pitch which is always between 55 and 85 degrees steep! 38min climbing time... felt like a 10k run! [...]

Source


SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#6287 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 03:45:52 pm
3 days - hardly a siege!

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#6288 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 04:26:40 pm
What a pic!

dave

  • Guest
#6289 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 07:41:23 pm
That stamina gonna pay dividends on the Joker for sure.

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2933
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#6290 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 08:14:34 pm
Alex Megos repeated Ondra's "Thors Hammer", 9a+, in the Flatanger Cave yesterday.
Said it felt hard compared to other routes of the grade.

looks like we might have to wait a while for Change to be repeated then?!

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#6291 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 08:25:03 pm
Why's that? He did a hard 9a+ in 3 days. He's not scraped the surface of seiging yet.

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2933
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#6292 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 08:53:10 pm
true, though I suspect that it's a non-linear case of effort vs reward to make that step up.  Also didn't Ondra say that Change was pretty much perfectly suited to his style and flexibility - the most Ondra-esque route possible - so it might be even harder for the grade.

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#6293 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 09:01:38 pm
Well I'm guessing Megos wouldn't mind doing a few 9bs first.  If he can be arsed spending more than 3 days on something.

bigtuboflard

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 584
  • Karma: +26/-0
#6294 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 09:19:11 pm
I'd be well chuffed if 9a+ felt like a 10k run....

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13453
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#6295 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 09:31:13 pm
You need to get worse at running then!

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1690
  • Karma: +63/-1
#6296 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 10:21:39 pm
The other channel reported that ondra had said it could be "easy 9b" so perhaps the three days are justified...

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#6297 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2015, 11:18:51 pm
I'd be well chuffed if 9a+ felt like a 10k run....

I'd be well chuffed if a 10k run took me 38 minutes!!!!!!!!

bendavison

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 338
  • Karma: +19/-0
#6298 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2015, 09:16:44 am
true, though I suspect that it's a non-linear case of effort vs reward to make that step up.

I think it took Ondra more than 3 days to do Thors Hammer, which he did the same year as Change.

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#6299 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2015, 09:31:29 am
Different doing a FA tho

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal