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significant repeats (Read 4178157 times)

Fultonius

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#3875 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 01:16:03 pm


I've only been to Pabbay once and despite it being an absolutely stunningly beautiful place, I found the climbing a bit boring. I know that's not a very fashionable thing to say, but most routes we did involved jug pulling up a steep wall/crack. You don't seem to get many technical moves. The best route we did was a FA through the right side of the Great Arch, which involved some weird roof coffin block traversing action and was mildly terrifying.

I think it's a reasonable assessment. I love the place but I can see how you could say that about the climbing. In some ways I love it for the fact that's the case. You can push your grade in amazing situations with that slight added security of knowing there should be good holds ahead.

I have very fond memories from all three trips out there but not many memories of specific sequences or moves.


Surely the roof could be onsighted? I'd love to see that in the news some day!

SA Chris

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#3876 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 01:20:56 pm
Could it? Yes. Will it? Depends what Caff is up to! :)

slackline

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#3877 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 03:28:18 pm

ian dunn

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#3878 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:02:10 pm
Buster Martin has done Bat Route 8c at Malham today, no stopping these youths, youngest Brit to climb 8c at 16 not 17 till later this month. Well done Buster, lets see a few more hard routes go down this year.

Wood FT

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#3879 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:13:45 pm
Nice one Buster! Strong in name and muscles

cowboyhat

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#3880 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 12:32:45 pm
Buster Martin has done Bat Route 8c at Malham today, no stopping these youths, youngest Brit to climb 8c at 16 not 17 till later this month. Well done Buster, lets see a few more hard routes go down this year.

Good effort!

For the sake of record/ pedantry; didn't Matt Donnelly do Make It Funky when he was 16, in 1996...?

Davo

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#3881 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 01:01:34 pm

For the sake of record/ pedantry; didn't Matt Donnelly do Make It Funky when he was 16, in 1996...?
[/quote]

I believe you will find that is a bit of sore point for Mr Donnelly! Close but no cigar for him, still he made up for it with Mecca Extension 16 years later!

rosmat

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#3882 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 01:48:24 pm
How old was Tom Bulger when he first climbed 8c - must have been around 16?

Adam Lincoln

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#3883 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 05:36:18 pm
How old was Tom Bulger when he first climbed 8c - must have been around 16?

Tom Bolger? About 20 i reckon.

rosmat

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#3884 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 06:16:33 pm
I thought Bolger had done 8b+ (Mecca?) at 16 but not sure after that?

Could well be wrong though..... :shrug:

Adam Lincoln

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#3885 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 06:22:19 pm
I thought Bolger had done 8b+ (Mecca?) at 16 but not sure after that?

Could well be wrong though..... :shrug:

Don't think he has done Mecca?

JackAus

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#3886 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2013, 07:08:29 am
Alex Megos has just done The Wheel of Life..

Doylo

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#3887 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2013, 08:29:08 am
Alex Megos has just done The Wheel of Life..

That'll be down to that training day he had in Parisellas ....

andybfreeman

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#3888 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2013, 08:40:52 am
Alex Megos has just done The Wheel of Life..

What a wad!! I missed seeing him boulder but the campground chatter was that he made very light work of ammagamma

JackAus

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#3889 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2013, 11:21:27 am
Alex Megos has just done The Wheel of Life..

What a wad!! I missed seeing him boulder but the campground chatter was that he made very light work of ammagamma

And he did Stimulation (V13) an hour later....

tomtom

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#3890 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2013, 08:53:47 pm
From Twitter, looks like George Ullrich and James McHaffie have repeated Indian face

http://twitter.com/CalumMuskett/status/354679924109496320/photo/1

(sorry if I've gone all UKC)

kelvin

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#3891 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2013, 09:35:12 pm
From Twitter, looks like George Ullrich and James McHaffie have repeated Indian face

http://twitter.com/CalumMuskett/status/354679924109496320/photo/1

(sorry if I've gone all UKC)

A lad I know watched it... top work.

Adam Lincoln

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#3892 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2013, 10:08:33 pm
Fair play getting on that face again after having a bit of an epic years back.




Johnny Brown

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#3893 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2013, 10:19:01 pm
Looks warm!

From Twitter, looks like George Ullrich and James McHaffie have repeated Indian face

Do you get more kudos for seconding it now?

tomtom

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#3894 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2013, 10:29:20 pm

From Twitter, looks like George Ullrich and James McHaffie have repeated Indian face

Do you get more kudos for seconding it now?

*yawns* I don't know - why don't you ask on UKC? :p

Their brief description is on the tweet linked.

leeroy

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#3895 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2013, 10:32:19 pm
Do you get more kudos for seconding it now?

gets plenty of kudos for belaying in my book!

another big repeat, e9s falling like flies for caff!

andy popp

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#3896 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 06:38:17 am
Do you get more kudos for seconding it now?

gets plenty of kudos for belaying in my book!

I belayed Johnny on an early attempt and can confirm it wasn't a super-fun experience.

Seems James' was an 'in a day' ascent - just incredibly impressive.

Luke Owens

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#3897 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 09:04:06 am
Respect to Caff, it was damn hot yesterday!

T_B

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Doylo

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#3899 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 11:35:08 am
Masters Wall epic is harrowing

 

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