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significant repeats (Read 2884656 times)

Scouse D

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#3875 Re: significant repeats
June 29, 2013, 11:14:23 pm
Well done Matt!

MattD

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#3876 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2013, 12:27:36 am
Cheers boys ;) might even stop lurking...

Doylo

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#3877 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2013, 02:05:22 pm
Nice one Matty D

youngy

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#3878 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2013, 10:06:44 pm
Ye top effort Matt  :great:

JackAus

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#3879 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2013, 02:33:48 am
Jimmy Webb has flashed Sky in Rocklands. 8B+! Fuck!

Dexter

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#3880 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2013, 06:22:50 pm
 :jaw: damn that's pretty strong

masonwoods101

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#3881 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2013, 08:19:09 pm
It's not even as if its a problem you have to just pull hard on... It's accuracy and precision... Impressive...

T_B

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#3882 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 09:34:12 am
Macleod has freed the Arch on Pabbay (technically a first ascent):
http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/

SA Chris

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#3883 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 09:47:35 am
FFA?

(And no UKCers in this context that doesn't mean First Female Ascent).

Great news. Still need to get to Pabbay.

T_B

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#3884 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 09:59:07 am
Yes, FFA. Didn't McClure basically do it with a fall and yo yo? I would have thought the 'crux' with a route like this is getting a partner to climb all the approach pitches and hang in hanging belays, for you to take the glory on the roof pitch!

I've only been to Pabbay once and despite it being an absolutely stunningly beautiful place, I found the climbing a bit boring. I know that's not a very fashionable thing to say, but most routes we did involved jug pulling up a steep wall/crack. You don't seem to get many technical moves. The best route we did was a FA through the right side of the Great Arch, which involved some weird roof coffin block traversing action and was mildly terrifying.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2013, 10:04:20 am by T_B »

andy_e

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#3885 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 10:06:27 am
Is this the same place as that OTE article which was supposed to be an attempt on the Nose but weather/birds prevented it so they sacked it to Pabbay? The cliff looks absolutely fantastic! Good effort Dave Mac.

SA Chris

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#3886 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:05:09 am
Yes, FFA. Didn't McClure basically do it with a fall and yo yo? I would have thought the 'crux' with a route like this is getting a partner to climb all the approach pitches and hang in hanging belays, for you to take the glory on the roof pitch!

That's what it says on the blog. Maybe his partner had had enough, hence no desire to have another shot. I think they were time restricted.

slackline

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#3887 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:36:36 am
That's what it says on the blog. Maybe his partner had had enough, hence no desire to have another shot. I think they were time restricted.

Time/other priorities (he and Lucy Creamer preferred to spend their last day "climbing in paradise" rather than redpointing the pitch).

Johnny Brown

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#3888 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 12:37:15 pm
Is this the same place as that OTE article which was supposed to be an attempt on the Nose but weather/birds prevented it so they sacked it to Pabbay?

Sounds like you might be confused with one of my articles on Strone/ Lewis?

Been on a boat trip around Pabbay/ Mingulay but not managed to climb there yet. Looks incredible.

Still waiting for Dave Mac to pay a visit to Eigg - could be a weekend hit from where he lives...

andy_e

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#3889 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 12:59:58 pm
Ah yes, sorry! Great article, that one!

Fultonius

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#3890 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 01:16:03 pm


I've only been to Pabbay once and despite it being an absolutely stunningly beautiful place, I found the climbing a bit boring. I know that's not a very fashionable thing to say, but most routes we did involved jug pulling up a steep wall/crack. You don't seem to get many technical moves. The best route we did was a FA through the right side of the Great Arch, which involved some weird roof coffin block traversing action and was mildly terrifying.

I think it's a reasonable assessment. I love the place but I can see how you could say that about the climbing. In some ways I love it for the fact that's the case. You can push your grade in amazing situations with that slight added security of knowing there should be good holds ahead.

I have very fond memories from all three trips out there but not many memories of specific sequences or moves.


Surely the roof could be onsighted? I'd love to see that in the news some day!

SA Chris

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#3891 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 01:20:56 pm
Could it? Yes. Will it? Depends what Caff is up to! :)

slackline

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#3892 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 03:28:18 pm

ian dunn

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#3893 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:02:10 pm
Buster Martin has done Bat Route 8c at Malham today, no stopping these youths, youngest Brit to climb 8c at 16 not 17 till later this month. Well done Buster, lets see a few more hard routes go down this year.

Wood FT

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#3894 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:13:45 pm
Nice one Buster! Strong in name and muscles

cowboyhat

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#3895 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 12:32:45 pm
Buster Martin has done Bat Route 8c at Malham today, no stopping these youths, youngest Brit to climb 8c at 16 not 17 till later this month. Well done Buster, lets see a few more hard routes go down this year.

Good effort!

For the sake of record/ pedantry; didn't Matt Donnelly do Make It Funky when he was 16, in 1996...?

Davo

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#3896 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 01:01:34 pm

For the sake of record/ pedantry; didn't Matt Donnelly do Make It Funky when he was 16, in 1996...?
[/quote]

I believe you will find that is a bit of sore point for Mr Donnelly! Close but no cigar for him, still he made up for it with Mecca Extension 16 years later!

rosmat

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#3897 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 01:48:24 pm
How old was Tom Bulger when he first climbed 8c - must have been around 16?

Adam Lincoln

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#3898 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 05:36:18 pm
How old was Tom Bulger when he first climbed 8c - must have been around 16?

Tom Bolger? About 20 i reckon.

rosmat

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#3899 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2013, 06:16:33 pm
I thought Bolger had done 8b+ (Mecca?) at 16 but not sure after that?

Could well be wrong though..... :shrug:

 

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