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Yes, FFA. Didn't McClure basically do it with a fall and yo yo? I would have thought the 'crux' with a route like this is getting a partner to climb all the approach pitches and hang in hanging belays, for you to take the glory on the roof pitch!

I've only been to Pabbay once and despite it being an absolutely stunningly beautiful place, I found the climbing a bit boring. I know that's not a very fashionable thing to say, but most routes we did involved jug pulling up a steep wall/crack. You don't seem to get many technical moves. The best route we did was a FA through the right side of the Great Arch, which involved some weird roof coffin block traversing action and was mildly terrifying.
 
Is this the same place as that OTE article which was supposed to be an attempt on the Nose but weather/birds prevented it so they sacked it to Pabbay? The cliff looks absolutely fantastic! Good effort Dave Mac.
 
T_B said:
Yes, FFA. Didn't McClure basically do it with a fall and yo yo? I would have thought the 'crux' with a route like this is getting a partner to climb all the approach pitches and hang in hanging belays, for you to take the glory on the roof pitch!

That's what it says on the blog. Maybe his partner had had enough, hence no desire to have another shot. I think they were time restricted.
 
SA Chris said:
That's what it says on the blog. Maybe his partner had had enough, hence no desire to have another shot. I think they were time restricted.

Time/other priorities (he and Lucy Creamer preferred to spend their last day "climbing in paradise" rather than redpointing the pitch).
 
andy_e said:
Is this the same place as that OTE article which was supposed to be an attempt on the Nose but weather/birds prevented it so they sacked it to Pabbay?

Sounds like you might be confused with one of my articles on Strone/ Lewis?

Been on a boat trip around Pabbay/ Mingulay but not managed to climb there yet. Looks incredible.

Still waiting for Dave Mac to pay a visit to Eigg - could be a weekend hit from where he lives...
 
T_B said:
I've only been to Pabbay once and despite it being an absolutely stunningly beautiful place, I found the climbing a bit boring. I know that's not a very fashionable thing to say, but most routes we did involved jug pulling up a steep wall/crack. You don't seem to get many technical moves. The best route we did was a FA through the right side of the Great Arch, which involved some weird roof coffin block traversing action and was mildly terrifying.

I think it's a reasonable assessment. I love the place but I can see how you could say that about the climbing. In some ways I love it for the fact that's the case. You can push your grade in amazing situations with that slight added security of knowing there should be good holds ahead.

I have very fond memories from all three trips out there but not many memories of specific sequences or moves.


Surely the roof could be onsighted? I'd love to see that in the news some day!
 
Buster Martin has done Bat Route 8c at Malham today, no stopping these youths, youngest Brit to climb 8c at 16 not 17 till later this month. Well done Buster, lets see a few more hard routes go down this year.
 


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