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significant repeats (Read 2443475 times)

dave

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#1525 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 05:10:03 pm
that guy's on




Probes

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#1526 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 05:36:30 pm
Oouff. Crikes. Great stuff.

Richard Sharpe

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#1527 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 10:06:01 pm
is this the first flash of an E9?
amazing effort, cant believe anyone would think about trying something like that without practice! just shows the level Ryan is working at (well above almost everyone i guess)

dave

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#1528 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 10:16:50 pm
is this the first flash of an E9?

Assuming its still E9 after the event then it might be.

Richard Sharpe

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#1529 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2010, 10:17:18 pm
 :beer2:
some stuff says E8??? either way E8 flashes aren't very common
he will probably say it was easy and not scary at all, but i wont take his word for it and go jumping straight on!!!! beast

Jim

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#1530 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 01:24:44 am
er no, he said he was scared. I thought it was e10? ;)

Richard Sharpe

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#1531 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 09:27:34 am
Origionaly given e9/e10 but I think after a Few ascents and some falls onto the gear it's considered E8 maybe E9 if you place the peg on the lead ( think you have to do another start or something to do that and that may be another route or am I thinking of something else??)

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#1532 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 10:15:20 am
I know Nige was planning to place the pegs on lead and I dare say Ryan will have done the same with the beta. You don't have to do the LH start (as per Born Slippy) to get the gear in. You do the route the original way and make a traverse left to reach down and place the lower gear (peg and friend). The lower gear is good but low, the higher peg (which you can reach whichever way you do it) is so so but at a better height.

cofe

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#1533 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 10:24:59 am
Let's not forget that, grade aside, he climbed a serious route with this much history and fame/infamy, bottom to top, first go.

Johnny Brown

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#1534 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 10:55:15 am
Word to that. Standards are certainly moving on, even if the grades aren't.

Nigel

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#1535 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 11:33:37 am
Just to clarify, as the situation with this route is not cut and dried as with most routes. We started up Knockin', made a short traverse left to the bomber gear in a hole just beneath the lip (which Born Slippy climbs a variant start to reach, not really required), then came back along the traverse and finished as per usual, hand-placing a peg on the way (on lead). I believe Alex Honnold headpointed the route a similar way although without the hand-placed pegs and reckoned E8 6c. Both myself and Ryan think that is about right. You could argue that should the hand-placed peg hold then its more like E7 6c, but its far from a certainty and its probably sensible to assume it will rip, hence the back-up plan of the Born Slippy gear, which would almost certainly prevent a groundfall with a decent belay. Also, for the hypothetical "onsight" (an unlikely prospect) you would not be able to "guess" what type of peg to place, or how to place it. You may also be too short - its the limit of my reach, I'm 5'9". As you can probably tell I spent a lot of time trying to make this route as safe as possible and think this makes for a fairly sensible way of doing the route. As per usual with some of these hard grit routes the biggest obstacle to the flash/onsight/ground up is the wierd or hard to place gear (as happened on Braille Trail). Ryan certainly wouldn't have tried to flash it without the good low gear, although the way to reach it isn't obvious. It was a fantastic effort by Ryan, especially given his recent grit experiences, i.e. none! (think this might have been his 2nd time on grit since last winter).

It would maybe be E9 or 10 to solo onsight but who's going to go for that?

Drew

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#1536 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 11:48:37 am
Kudos to you both  :bow:

Doylo

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#1537 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 11:52:43 am
He's such a talented all round wad. 8c+ crimpy lime and E8 slab flashes!  :o

Richard Sharpe

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#1538 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 01:04:57 pm
Cool seems to have cleared that up, top effort to both you guys, sounds like a pretty serious route. You say no ground fall but let's not forget with such big falls ropes and gear can and does fail, and I'm guessing from the consumed footage it wouldn't be a very nice fall anyway. Well done guys. Keep on crushing, I'm sure everyone is now expecting big things this winter after such a good start, this and end of the affair getting three ascents in an hour!!!!

Doylo

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#1539 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 01:16:01 pm
i was belaying the fall in consumed. Nver wore those trousers again......

SA Chris

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#1540 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 01:19:25 pm
Very wise, they clashed with your top.

Fiend

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#1541 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 03:23:25 pm
Good report nige. Sounds like the optimum balanced way to do the route.

topcat

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#1542 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 08:38:21 pm
Tim Palmer did Keen Roof today. Took him two sessions.  :bow:

aly

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#1543 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2010, 09:33:40 pm
Brilliant effort  ;D 
Just to confirm what Nigel said, when Honnold got home after doing Knockin' he said he wasn't too sure exactly where it went so he climbed the arete of Elder Crack up to the slot on the lip (which seemed logical to him with no topo), placed the Born Slippy gear and then climbed up the slab from there with no more gear.  The gear is good and he reckoned it was totally 'safe' with that gear, which is what I reckoned too (not that it would make the fall any less of a 'brown trouser moment').  I'd always assumed that the Born Slippy gear was out for the true line of "Knockin'" but as you say, it's a bit of weird one given the various gear permutations available. 

Getting the peg in felt very hard (also 5' 9", would have given my favourite beanie for a few more inches!), and it wobbled all over the place.  You also have to do the moves up to there above just the sideways pecker (this was the original 6c crux before the hold went wasn't it?).  Awesome to see it flashed in whatever way, must have been intense!  Very very impressive  :bow:

Adam Lincoln

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#1544 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2010, 10:29:02 am
Tim Palmer did Keen Roof today. Took him two sessions.  :bow:


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#1545 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2010, 10:31:17 am
Shirley no match, no tick?  :lol:

Made it look easy.

andy_e

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#1546 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2010, 07:33:20 pm
Nice one palmstrong!

cowboyhat

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#1547 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2010, 07:44:49 pm
This must be the most popular 8B in the country. Eight ascents?

Bonjoy

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#1548 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2010, 12:59:31 pm
Yeah, yeah, 8b, whatever  :yawn:. What about the real big news repeat at the Tor? Stone finally got up Bodybuilder!  :bow:
Makes Andy F look like an amateur siege monkey.
Excellent report here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=430503











P.S. Effort Tim, only joking about keen roof.

SA Chris

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#1549 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2010, 01:22:12 pm
Excellent. Sums up Stone very well.

 

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