+ lighter internal organs
I hear what Stubbs is saying but she's inside that groove
I was expecting her to bridge up it, but she doesn't. Is it as valid as an a eight stone 'man' doing Voyager?
The voice of truth or another jaded pundit who needs to recalibrate his awemeter?
Jesus Christ! What a hero! 8! For fucks sake!!! Amazing.
People look out for (and usually take the standard grade for) problems that suit them all the time. The fact that she's small takes nothing away from her achievement.Being boosted to the starting holds is just the same as stacking pads to reach them. If they are the holds that everyone else starts from then it seems fair to me.
Yes but they'd be a nats dick either side of the regular morphology
Yes but they'd be a nats dick either side of the regular morphology in most cases, if you go down to the 10th or 90th percentiles of a given distribution then you're going to see more of an impact. Do I really need to point out how much morphology effects grades on specific case problems or how almost every grading scale has something that it trips up trying to describe in order to back up my (general) point?Watch the two videos; completely different moves, same problem same name. Damn good effort regardless, she's 8 and no doubt a wad. However, I feel people are blind if they think Xa or whatever is a representative grade for climbing a piece of rock regardless of any other variables. It just doesn't make sense and its why I think I personally pay a lot less attention to them than I used to.
Watch the two videos; completely different moves, same problem same name.
yes but..." then that's up to you. I personally think it's fucking impressive, and wish I was good enough to climb that hard at 8 (or 10, or 12, or 14), regardless of how much it suited me.
I think you are underestimating how big a role individual morphology and strengths play in most peoples bouldering. I think it comes significantly into play on the majority of problems for the majority of people, not just the 10th and 90th percentiles.
As a side note, do any lanky bastards ever take reduced grades for Deliverance, or Submergence? Do they fuck!
In this instance, let's not forget that most of us at age 8 probably struggled to lift a one litre bottle of lemonade off the deck. Props to this girl!
You may do moves a different way to Mr Parry or Stu L etc. but they won't be as different as that of a child attempting the same moves as they are the extreme.
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