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significant repeats (Read 2472103 times)

Jim

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#775 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2009, 04:16:34 pm
The Whack

It is indeed the thing we looked at, had a feel of the holds and then dismissed as a bit daft and eliminate. It is eliminate, but is actually a rather good problem. Bit of a one move wonder.
This is the problem:
I remember looking at this problem and thinking the same

nik at work

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#776 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2009, 04:28:14 pm
Where's that big medal gone?

 :lol:

You've got me.

nik at work

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#777 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 07:53:12 am
Oh just to add The Whack is a standing start. I think I suggested it was a sitter a few posts back, this was wrong. Or if it is a sitter it's about 9a...

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#778 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 04:31:57 pm
Oh just to add The Whack is a standing start. I think I suggested it was a sitter a few posts back, this was wrong. Or if it is a sitter it's about 9a...

I found the pics of this today, and can confirm that that is the Whack. The only thing that occurs to me is whether not using a pad would make any difference to the start, as Chas is not using one in the pics I've seen.

nik at work

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#779 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 06:29:41 pm
Not using a pad may make it a bit trickier to get your left foot on, dependant on flexibility I suppose. However in terms of pulling on/up once your foots on I can't see it making much difference, you have to pull hard whatever.

Just to be clear, I'm not suggesting it's not 7c+, it may well be. If I hadn't hit the hold straight off then I wouldn't have subsequently done due to the hole in my finger. I can imagine it repeatedly cutting holes in your tips, then a couple of weeks lay off to heal, then another go, another hole etc etc and before you know it the problem has taken over a month to climb and feels nails. I'm just saying I haven't previously flashed 7c+, no more and no less. Perhaps this should be in YYFY then?

Anyway still interested to hear about his sequence on Nik's Wall so if you hear any more from him please pass the info on.

Adam Lincoln

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#780 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 08:02:56 pm
Ryan had a session and a half at Rubicon today.

Finished off Caviar. Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)  in about 45 mins, then warmed down with a quick ascent of Beluga.

Ru

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#781 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 08:39:57 pm
Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)

Ryan has the casting vote I think. I thought it a grade harder than Zeke but it's really hard to tell with these boulder routes. I would have thought with a fast ascent Ryan would think 8b, but he's more than capable of doing 8b+ that fast.

Adam Lincoln

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#782 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 08:46:58 pm
Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)

Ryan has the casting vote I think. I thought it a grade harder than Zeke but it's really hard to tell with these boulder routes. I would have thought with a fast ascent Ryan would think 8b, but he's more than capable of doing 8b+ that fast.

I think he thought it 8b. I had a brief play before skin was getting eaten, and from my armchair i would say 8b was about right. Tad harder than Zeke though.

Ru

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#783 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 08:53:43 pm
There you go then, it's likely to be 8b.

Adam Lincoln

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#784 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2009, 10:17:57 pm
There you go then, it's likely to be 8b.

You might want to ask Ryan though when you see him. You know what he is like for commenting on grades...

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#785 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2009, 08:51:24 am
Good effort Ryan and hardly surprsing he did it so quick. If you're strong enough and you like nasty holds it will go down really quick. I'm really not sure of the grade now as I think most climbers operating at that grade will find it horrendous due to the nature of the climbing.

Zeke is 8b but really right at the bottom of the grade and barracuda is at least at the other end of the spectrum if not a bit further. It's easy to feel very close to it but in reality to be a way off. Hopefully it will see some more repeats by the end of the season.

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#786 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2009, 01:51:29 pm
Good effort Ryan and hardly surprsing he did it so quick. If you're strong enough and you like nasty holds it will go down really quick. I'm really not sure of the grade now as I think most climbers operating at that grade will find it horrendous due to the nature of the climbing.

Zeke is 8b but really right at the bottom of the grade and barracuda is at least at the other end of the spectrum if not a bit further. It's easy to feel very close to it but in reality to be a way off. Hopefully it will see some more repeats by the end of the season.

Theres a massive difference between something thats low in the grade and something thats hard as we all know. Zoolook/Toadall Recall, Mussel Beach/ Statement. The Bastard/Make it Funky etc.. Pascal said 8b but then a):he has been cranking on pockets in the jura pretty recently b): he is friggin awesome and c): he is a lanky prick

Moo

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#787 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2009, 03:17:08 pm
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick

Andy Harris

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#788 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2009, 03:45:14 pm
I was thinking of the old Termiantor / Rose analogy myself. I suspect a & b would be the main contributors to sucess as c wouldn't be an advantage on this route unless he used a different sequence which for the life of me i can't imagine (hard move to the pocket with LH and hard pop to the crimp with RH).

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#789 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2009, 04:14:24 pm
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick

yeah he is

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#790 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2009, 09:32:44 pm
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick

The two things seem to go hand in hand as from what I've heard. Which is most commonly: "You lanky prick"

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#791 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2009, 07:36:53 pm
It may not be significant to most but the bishop blog reports that Fred Nicole repeated the swarm, any time nicole does anything its significant to me - note to self, get   a     life.

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#792 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2009, 11:07:38 pm
Au contraire mon ami, I always think its significant to hear about guys like Fred Nicole, Birkett, McClure, Moon, Haston et. al going strong when they're hitting their forties and beyond. Its reassuring to think I've got a buffer of a good 20 years to climb 8a  ;D

On a more serious note, I do think these ascents should be highlighted. Proof that you don't have to be a 6 stone 16 year old wunderkind to perform at or near the top level. You've just got to put the effort in and want it enough. Bon effort Fred.

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#793 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 11:30:32 am

Krank

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#794 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 11:39:12 am
he made that look hard didnt he ;)

slackline

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#795 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 11:51:24 am
 :o Thats immense!!!

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#796 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 11:54:53 am
How long is that thing? 

Jaspersharpe

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#797 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 12:18:16 pm
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.

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#798 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 12:26:25 pm
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.

I thought it looked like that when it started off.

Surely a route grade would be more apposite for such things (like Steve McClure gave his long thing on Face of Business).

Jim

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#799 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 12:31:13 pm
(and malc gave the big link in the cave)

 

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