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significant repeats (Read 2580018 times)

Fiend

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#9200 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 08:11:55 pm
 :lol: :lol: :lol: a dark horse if you've never been on any social media yourself maybe. Definitely one of the insta-whore generation.


Teestubb - DG ahead of his time them!! I remember a spirited waffle about the merits of "blue" limestone vs "orange" limestone.

cheque

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#9201 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 08:41:11 pm
Definitely one of the insta-whore generation.

As opposed to the blog-whore generation presumably.  ;)

Adam Lincoln

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#9202 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 09:02:23 pm
Micky Paige done another 9a in Flatanger. Not sure which one. Not bad for a boulderer haha.

Doylo

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#9203 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 09:20:39 pm
If Mat Wrightís a dark horse what da hell does that make Micky? 

teestub

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#9204 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 09:37:15 pm
Micky could be a dark horse if it wasnít for all the second hand spray 😄

36chambers

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#9205 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 09:40:15 pm
Micky could be a dark horse if it wasnít for all the second hand spray 😄

The guy who features throughout Life On Hold and even has the ender?

danm

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#9206 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 10:24:09 pm
Going back to the legend that is Dave Graham, he did a talk in Ambleside of all places years ago, and afterwards went to the pub with some of the people who attended. It became apparent over the course of a few beers that like a true dirtbag he hadn't bothered arranging anywhere to stay and was winging it in the hope the local climbing community would sort him out, which of course they did.

abarro81

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#9207 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 10:57:05 pm
From what I've seen of Micky at the school he's very much not just a boulderer and pretty damn good at looping round in circles...

SA Chris

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#9208 Re: significant repeats
October 07, 2020, 09:40:15 am
Going back to the legend that is Dave Graham, he did a talk in Ambleside of all places years ago, and afterwards went to the pub with some of the people who attended. It became apparent over the course of a few beers that like a true dirtbag he hadn't bothered arranging anywhere to stay and was winging it in the hope the local climbing community would sort him out, which of course they did.

He did the same up here. Was going to crash at one mates house, but then got the offer of going to the pub with a few locals, so opted for that, hoping to get  doss somewhere else after.

Doylo

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#9209 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 10:49:20 am
Barefoot Charles 9a in Font has been repeated again and the bloke reckoned 8c. Turns out climbing is easier in climbing shoes. Quelle surprise.


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#9210 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 10:52:05 am
Got to love some intensive allezing

spidermonkey09

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#9211 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 10:55:33 am
Great footage, he rinsed that. Quality heel work, can't imagine Charles was doing it that way unless he's painting his heels with stealth...

Bradders

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#9212 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:11:58 am
Not using pads probably adds half a grade n'all.

Fiend

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#9213 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:18:59 am
Allezallezallezallezallez le downgrade plus grand!

Still looks pretty brutally fingery / tensiony etc etc  :strongbench:

Doylo

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#9214 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:27:51 am
Bet Nedís licking his chops at those heels... 👠

teestub

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#9215 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:43:06 am
Allez mon dieu!

I have vague recollection of the stand bit being 8A+ on its own, is that right? Start looks minging but that bit looks great.

UnkArl

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#9216 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:49:34 am
Bet Nedís licking his chops at those heels... 👠
8A/+ ?  :popcorn:

Nibile

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#9217 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:59:50 am
Allez mon dieu!
Wasn't it "Allez mon vieux"? Not that it has any importance whatsoever.
On a side note, my knees now hurt just by watching it.

andy_e

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#9218 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 12:26:51 pm
Allez mon dieu!
Wasn't it "Allez mon vieux"?

Oui, c'est Áa. Chapeau, looked easier than Albert doing it!

Bradders

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#9219 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 12:34:47 pm
Allez mon dieu!

I have vague recollection of the stand bit being 8A+ on its own, is that right? Start looks minging but that bit looks great.

Yeah that's right, and agree looks mega!

monkey boy

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#9220 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 03:30:37 pm
Allez mon dieu!

I have vague recollection of the stand bit being 8A+ on its own, is that right? Start looks minging but that bit looks great.

Start originally got 8A+ and 8B from low right but think it's considered 8A+ from low right (more minging crimps) and 7C+ now. Great problem though

Orrincoley

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#9221 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2020, 02:11:04 pm
Buster did Hubble according to Steve's Insta

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGNFCuKDYzg/?igshid=102ym72tyjl5y

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#9222 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 12:19:36 pm
The comments on that post are amazing. Someone with the handle

DourOldScotMSmithItsNotLikeitWasInMyDay has accused Buster of cheating because of the knee pad. Which does tie in well with the discussed Dave Graham opinion on tactics.

Because not eating for a year and dehydrating yourself for a week are legit but not knee pads. Which got me thinking: props to Matt Wright for what must be among the heaviest ascents of Hubble, if not even the first to break the ten stone barrier?

submaximal gains

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#9223 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 12:34:56 pm
Billy Ridal did Superman at Crag X on Saturday according to his 8a.nu log.

36chambers

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#9224 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 02:01:02 pm
Because not eating for a year and dehydrating yourself for a week are legit but not knee pads. Which got me thinking: props to Matt Wright for what must be among the heaviest ascents of Hubble, if not even the first to break the ten stone barrier?

That says a lot if Matt is one of the heaviest. I remember him looking lean af in whatever picture, or video, I saw him topless in.

 

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