[chillax]

Don't know much about the alps or that, but McLeod and Muskett freeing a hard route on the Eiger seems significant. Or a least bloody impressive. Well done.

http://muskettmountaineering.co.uk/blog/blog-view.aspx?postid=43

[Wood FT]

Nice steady first alpine tick for face there

[SA Chris]

Didn't know Dirk Benedict was with them.

[duncan]

Don't know much about the alps or that, but McLeod and Muskett freeing a hard route on the Eiger seems significant. Or a least bloody impressive. Well done.

http://muskettmountaineering.co.uk/blog/blog-view.aspx?postid=43

I think this is quite impressive. The numbers are not very big by modern standards but it sounds like David Lama found it pretty tough and he is not short of experience at this kind of thing. I believe the name Patience refers to the quality needed to find the route in condition, so it was a good effort just to roll up and do it. I had made tentative inquiries about the Geneva Pillar routes a month ago as a possible alternative to the Tre Cima but was told it was streaming with water so things must have improved pretty quickly. 

For those interested in this kind of this but at a more realistic level Chant du Cygne is the classic here and Freakonomics - an easier way up the Deep Blue Sea wall - sounds like it is not too serious and worthy of attention. The ambiance must be fantastic even if the climbing is not that special.

[slackline]

Don't know much about the alps or that, but McLeod and Muskett freeing a hard route on the Eiger seems significant. Or a least bloody impressive. Well done.

http://muskettmountaineering.co.uk/blog/blog-view.aspx?postid=43

The numbers are not very big by modern standards but it sounds like David Lama found it pretty tough and he is not short of experience at this kind of thing.

MacLeods write-up states that one of the easy "6b+" pitches they both thought was more like E4 6b!

[hunter08]

thanks

[chris j]

1st female ascent of Chupacabra & 2nd female ascent of Chicama for Caroline Ciavaldini. Not bad for someone still 'learning' about trad climbing...

http://jpclimbing.com/passing-the-baton

[chris j]

Also in Caroline's own words with added pinkness 

http://www.carolineciavaldini.com/new.html

[Muenchener]

Also in Caroline's own words with added pinkness 

Not as pink as Sasha

[Muenchener]

... who, according to 8a.nu, just onsighted (and downgraded) the Camillotto Pellissier on the Cima Grande

[Luke Owens]

Jordan Buy's got the 2nd ascent of Bransby's The Brute Extension (The Beast?) at The Diamond yesterday!

[shark]

Power Club participant and young wad Will Smith has reported doing Pata Negra on 8a.nu:

"YEEEAAHHH!!! Tried 3 times in May and was not nearly in the shape required to do it, couldnt do some moves and couldnt link anything. Went home for 3 months, trained hard just for this route, came back and it went quicker than expected. So happy. The hard work paid off, was all worth it. Amazing route! Video to come"

[shark]

Video to come

[JackAus]

Sharma is here in Aus for a tour. Down in the Gramps at the moment and did Ammagamma V13 yesterday.

[andyd]

 
This should be in a thread called 'walks in the park'.

[JackAus]

And the other day he did the hardest on the Taipan Wall at 33 (8c): Groove Train.

Photo: Simon Carter

[slackline]

Emma Twyford repeated Rare Lichen (E9 6c) yesterday

[Moo]

wow that is a great effort 

[Wood FT]

brilliant, good tenacity 

[Richie Crouch]

Me and Laura watched her as we were walking out from the boulder field below. Didn't know what route it was but assumed it was fairly serious judging by how high up she was, with the ropes just blowing about in the breeze from her waist!

Looked smooth too, very impressive! 

[andy popp]

Monster!

[slackline]

[shark]

"Did Rare Lichen up on Griben Facet in the Ogwen Valley which is given E9 6c. Such a cool route with some seriously small gear! I was not hopeful of doing it as it was pretty grim walking in then it burnt off!  The rock felt a bit smeggy and just as I was about to set off some low level cloud came in. Decided to have a look and shout for a rope if it felt awful. Middle pic is of me pulling a terrified face just before setting off and the end pic is of me celebrating still being in one piece and not in a hospital. Thanks to Alex for belaying me very attentively and Ray and Llyr for being very nice whilst filming it.

[nai]

https://www.facebook.com/shauna.coxsey.3/posts/442851622503001

Today I pulled on the smallest holds I have ever held and tried harder than I have ever tried. I climbed 'Bigger Belly' at Rubicon. I had to figure out a new sequence because the original method wasn't possible for me. Pictures as video coming soon!

Wowzers

[benpritch]

https://www.facebook.com/shauna.coxsey.3/posts/442851622503001

Today I pulled on the smallest holds I have ever held and tried harder than I have ever tried. I climbed 'Bigger Belly' at Rubicon. I had to figure out a new sequence because the original method wasn't possible for me. Pictures as video coming soon!

Wowzers

Can't quite believe this has raised so little interest - 1st font 8b by a woman in the UK, in 1 short session. Totally brilliant and amazing.