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significant repeats (Read 4536374 times)

dr_botnik

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#3950 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2013, 02:17:42 pm
First solo of Chimera at High Rocks today by Matt Cousins. Nice one Matt!  :weakbench:

Impressive! Did it involve matts?

Fiend

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#3951 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2013, 02:26:56 pm
Quite probably  ::)

A serious highball that, looks totally insecure.

dr_botnik

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#3952 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2013, 02:50:31 pm
How many metres up is the crux? It looks right near the top. Would ground upping it be too futuristic atm?

petercrimp

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#3953 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2013, 09:34:45 pm
Some footage from today. Really impressive!


tomtom

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#3954 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2013, 09:39:27 pm
Wow - thats fantastic, seriously high and very much not a path at the top!

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#3955 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2013, 10:45:47 pm
Rat up a drainpipe! Bon effort.

Tom de Gay

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#3956 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2013, 11:14:38 pm
Wow, he totally paths it! Brilliant stuff.

It's about 7C+. Crux is the high step from the break and grim press into the groove – that would be a horrible sideways fall. And it's still hard and sketchy after. Usual damp sandy death top out. Still fancy the ground up?

dr_botnik

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#3957 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 01:52:11 am
Matt Cousins  :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

dr_botnik

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#3958 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 02:00:40 am
p.s. Tom; I've not got the balls, or the talent. It's easy to watch someone dispatch something in such good style and dream tho!

andy popp

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#3959 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 06:03:48 am
Bloody hell ...

nik at work

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#3960 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 08:26:17 am
Very nice.

remus

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#3961 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 09:23:56 am
Made it look about 6B+! Top quality ascent.

JackAus

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#3962 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 12:16:11 pm
Quick run down of Woods' Grampians ascents so far...

Snooky Badlands V10
Butchers Choice V10
Forced Entry V11
Forced Entry Direct V11
Point and Shoot V11
Parallel Lines V11
So You Think You Can Dance V11
Gaida V12
Last Action Hiro V12
Occam's Razor V13
Mana V13
On The Beach V13
Pretty Hate Machine V13
Stimulation V13

ferret

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#3963 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 01:48:51 pm
thats not a bad day for woods

turnipturned

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#3964 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 02:37:52 pm
Quick run down of Woods' Grampians ascents so far...

Snooky Badlands V10
Butchers Choice V10
Forced Entry V11
Forced Entry Direct V11
Point and Shoot V11
Parallel Lines V11
So You Think You Can Dance V11
Gaida V12
Last Action Hiro V12
Occam's Razor V13
Mana V13
On The Beach V13
Pretty Hate Machine V13
Stimulation V13

Lets compare that to Jimmy Webbs ticklist for Rocklands:

Golden Shadow 8b+ (V14)
Ray of Light 8b (V13)
Monkey Business 8b (V13)
Modified Limtied Rampage 8B (V13)
King of Limbs 8b (V13)
Madiba 8b (V13)
Sky 8a+/8b/8b+ (V13?) FLASH
The Vice 8b (V13) FLASH
Mooiste Meiste 8b (V13)
Derailed (Anti Kneepad) 8b (V13)
The Ghoul 8a+ (V12) FA
The Big Short 8a+ (V12) FA
Time Out SS 8a+ (V12)
Matter of Balance 8a+ (V12)
Oral Office 8a+ (V12)
Black Shadow 8a+ (V12)

Plus another 24 8a (V11), 11 of which were flashed, 2 first ascents and 6 of which have been downgraded from 8a+

JESUS!

Looks like the Jernej Kruder and Niccolo Ceri are following suit. I think that Kruder main goal is to flash as much as he can, witnessed him on Black Shadow... wow!

I think a new standard is coming!


fried

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#3965 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 04:42:09 pm


JonP doing Chimera on top-rope for an idea of just how impressive a solo that is. (shameless link theft from theotherside)

shurt

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#3966 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 05:09:36 pm
agreed, the blurry youtube doesnt give a proper idea of how thin it is. makes the solo seem even more impressive...

Doylo

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#3967 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 05:37:02 pm
Jimmy Webb is the man when it comes to flashing boulders. 4 8b flashes in the last year (2 of them got 8b+)

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#3968 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2013, 07:27:35 pm
Andi T and partner broke the Staffordshire Nose record today. 8hrs and 41mins I think.

Good work on a hot day like this! Surely can go under 7hrs?


Jaspersharpe

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#3969 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2013, 02:44:26 pm
First solo of Chimera at High Rocks today by Matt Cousins. Nice one Matt!  :weakbench:

This is pretty midblowing.

Wow, he totally paths it! Brilliant stuff.

It's about 7C+. Crux is the high step from the break and grim press into the groove – that would be a horrible sideways fall. And it's still hard and sketchy after. Usual damp sandy death top out. Still fancy the ground up?

 :agree: 7C+ as a problem grade is about right but this is not a boulder problem. More like soloing an 8b route where you wouldn't really want ot fall off the crux and definitely wouldn't want to fall off after it. As Tom says, the finish would be enough to put most off the solo!

SA Chris

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#3970 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2013, 02:55:55 pm
So E8 then? That outcrop films clip really does justice to showing how frikking hard / tenuous / powerful the crux is. Full marks to the FA and to anyone who has done it, but soloing it is something else.

Danny

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#3971 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2013, 11:39:36 pm
I'd say a fair bit more than E8 in trad money - from my armchair of course. Necky 8b is surely in the E9/10 neck of the woods.

Not that it really matters, or needs that kind of number to validate what is manifestly an awesome effort.

dave

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#3972 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2013, 11:53:53 pm
Didn't that always reckon Parthian was 8a+ but provided the gear held was basically safe?

I usually think southern sandstone looks shit but this looks boss. If only he'd done it quarterback style wearing an american football shirt. #Touchdown

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#3973 Re: significant repeats
July 24, 2013, 12:10:19 am
A close up.


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#3974 Re: significant repeats
July 24, 2013, 07:27:24 am
fuck ... that close up looked scary!

 

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