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significant repeats (Read 5054060 times)

fammer

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#12175 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 08:29:27 am
How many women have onsighted 8c? Is that the top level? I recall Janja did a few.

remus

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#12176 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 08:35:07 am
Havent done much research so potentially an incomplete list, but I count four women who have onsighted 8c.

https://climbing-history.org/list/42/hard-sport-climbing-onsights-by-women

Adam Lincoln

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#12177 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 08:41:25 am
New entry for your list Remus

Sam Ley for making the 6th ascent of Achemine E9 7a, Dumbarton Rock. His hardest sport grade was 8a.

remus

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#12178 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 08:48:10 am
New entry for your list Remus

Sam Ley for making the 6th ascent of Achemine E9 7a, Dumbarton Rock. His hardest sport grade was 8a.

Beast! Sounds like it's around 8a+/b climbing, so quite a jump to doing some of your hardest ever climbing above a decent runout.

Adam Lincoln

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#12179 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 08:52:34 am
New entry for your list Remus

Sam Ley for making the 6th ascent of Achemine E9 7a, Dumbarton Rock. His hardest sport grade was 8a.

Beast! Sounds like it's around 8a+/b climbing, so quite a jump to doing some of your hardest ever climbing above a decent runout.

8b to top rope. Broke his wrist on it last year falling off it badly. So even more impressive

Fultonius

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#12180 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 10:00:07 am
How many RPs I the end? 60+?

What a focus!

jwi

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#12181 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 11:28:00 am
How many women have onsighted 8c? Is that the top level? I recall Janja did a few.

8c onsight is top level for humans. Harder than 9a+ rp by all accounts. Less than two handfull climbers have ever done better than 8c, maybe just five climbers if we are demanding harsh grades, whereas more than 50 climbers have done 9b

remus

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#12182 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 11:51:40 am
How many women have onsighted 8c? Is that the top level? I recall Janja did a few.

8c onsight is top level for humans. Harder than 9a+ rp by all accounts. Less than two handfull climbers have ever done better than 8c, maybe just five climbers if we are demanding harsh grades, whereas more than 50 climbers have done 9b

Makes me laugh every time I check this list https://climbing-history.org/list/37/hard-sport-climbing-onsights When it comes to onsighting there's Ondra and then there's everyone else.

jwi

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#12183 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 11:57:53 am
Makes me laugh every time I check this list https://climbing-history.org/list/37/hard-sport-climbing-onsights When it comes to onsighting there's Ondra and then there's everyone else.

The cut-off should be at 8c really imho....

stone

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#12184 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 02:25:34 pm
Quote
https://climbing-history.org/list/37/hard-sport-climbing-onsights
I'm mostly blown away by Magnus Midtbo.

Obviously Ondra and Megos etc are even more impressive, but Magnus is amongst a select few and yet has this persona of just being a bumbly you-tuber. I'm not saying false modesty is good or anything, it's just that I was taken unawares.

Nails

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#12185 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 06:08:58 pm
32 onsights 8c+ or above in that list. 25 Ondra, 3 Megos and only 4 from 2020 onwards.

stone

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#12186 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 08:02:57 pm
32 onsights 8c+ or above in that list. 25 Ondra, 3 Megos and only 4 from 2020 onwards.
I wonder whether that's because of the Olympics?

rjtrials

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#12187 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2024, 11:58:58 pm
Quote
https://climbing-history.org/list/37/hard-sport-climbing-onsights
I'm mostly blown away by Magnus Midtbo.

Obviously Ondra and Megos etc are even more impressive, but Magnus is amongst a select few and yet has this persona of just being a bumbly you-tuber. I'm not saying false modesty is good or anything, it's just that I was taken unawares.

For awhile he was one of the few with 9b route and 8C boulder ticks.
The boulder he downgraded years later I believe.

Adam Lincoln

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#12188 Re: significant repeats
October 18, 2024, 10:16:49 am
Chris Smith can join 9a club.

Der Heilige Gral - Frankenjura

Adam Lincoln

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#12189 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 10:52:27 am
Looks like Eder Lomba did The Boss. Not sure if its his first 8B+?

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#12190 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 01:02:25 pm
Look sharp Remus, your position as master of the early  knowledge is slipping!  :spank:

Adam Lincoln

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#12191 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 02:29:01 pm
Look sharp Remus, your position as master of the early  knowledge is slipping!  :spank:

He must be on holiday

remus

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#12192 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 03:10:33 pm


Just sayin'  ;) Remiss of me not to post on here though.

Adam Lincoln

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#12193 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 03:16:43 pm


Just sayin'  ;) Remiss of me not to post on here though.

Never doubted you Remus

haydn jones

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#12194 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 04:31:04 pm
He did the sit to Godzilla about 50 times trying to do the 8C back in 21, does that still get 8B+?

yetix

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#12195 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 05:02:22 pm
Godzilla sit is 8b no? Starships is 8b+?

haydn jones

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#12196 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2024, 06:04:13 pm
Well, he definitely also climbed starship tons of times

remus

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#12197 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2024, 08:19:59 am
Prolific American trad wad Connor Herson had repeated Ron Kauk's Magic Line 8c or E10ish.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DBVBsJ_vbWb/?igsh=MTVnbDNuYmtuYXkyZQ==

Kingy

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#12198 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2024, 09:02:44 am
Nice. Wasn't 8c+ being touted for this by recent repeaters? I know Ron gave it 8c in the 90s but some feet have broken since then

remus

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#12199 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2024, 09:37:18 am
Nice. Wasn't 8c+ being touted for this by recent repeaters? I know Ron gave it 8c in the 90s but some feet have broken since then

Yeah Ron suggested 8c when he did it on pre-placed gear, then Lonnie suggested 8c+ when made the second ascent placing the gear. I think Carlo Traversi is the only other repeater who's offered a grade and he suggested easy 8c+.

I had a chat with Maddy about it after she'd been working on it with Hazel and it sounds like a fairly fragile route. Sounds like lots of micro feet which are variously crumbly and/or repaired. Could be mis-remembering, but I got the impression that individual footholds breaking hadn't affected the difficulty that much, more annoying as you'd work a sequence and then have to work something else out when a foot crumbled.

 

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