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significant repeats (Read 5026567 times)

Teaboy

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#12225 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2024, 04:41:31 pm
I wasn’t sure what this route was so did a Google, crikey, she’s been on a bit of a tear up!
https://gripped.com/news/laura-rogora-sends-an-adam-ondra-5-15a/

remus

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#12226 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2024, 08:06:34 am
Yuta Imaizumi has repeated Floatin 8C+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DCQltThSqDb/

andy popp

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#12227 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2024, 08:29:49 am
I'm sure everyone has seen this already, but Michaela Kiersch has repeated Dreamtime, making her the first woman to climb 9a+ and 8C.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DCPLn4rtPVZ/

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remus

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#12229 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2024, 05:36:51 pm
Perhaps not that significant in the scheme of things, but a nice reminder of the level these days. In between sessions on Alphane Shinichiro Nomura has popped over to Magic Wood and climbed Mystic Stylez 8B+, New Base Line 8B+ (second go) and Remembrance of Things Past 8B+ in the same day.

20 years ago doing any one of those problems on a trip would have been enough to make the news, now it's just a footnote.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DCRKm9NtCus/?img_index=1

monkey boy

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#12230 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2024, 05:30:16 am
I think climbing 3 8B+'s in a day is significant still.

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#12231 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2024, 10:17:45 am
It makes Font 24E+++ , so hell yeah.

Duma

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#12232 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2024, 10:25:55 am
His post implies that he's done it before too? Or is that just created in translation?

jwi

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#12233 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2024, 11:39:49 am
It says the same in Japanese (I think, based on my very rusty Japanese). The text has definately not been autotranslated, it is way too good for that.

remus

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#12234 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2024, 01:44:49 pm
Been doing a bit of digging and he didn't do 3x 8B+ in a day...he did 2x 8C and 1x 8B+!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjJwYwtDDpI/?img_index=1

jwi

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#12235 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2024, 02:07:02 pm
In 8B+ and 8C is all 5-dan. So same/same.

In other news, Jonathan Siegrist has repeated L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs a "9a+" first freed by Adam Ondra in 2010 and only repeated by Alex Megos (in a handful of attempts) before. Apart from being likely very hard for the grade, there is also a 7m runout on very diffucult terrain to the belay to keep the riff-raff away.

https://www.grimper.com/news-jonathan-siegrist-realise-seconde-repetition-etrange-ivresse-lenteurs

remus

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#12236 Re: significant repeats
November 15, 2024, 05:20:18 pm
Jessica Pilz has did Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana yesterday. By my count that makes her the 12th woman to climb 9a+ or harder.

teestub

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#12237 Re: significant repeats
November 15, 2024, 10:21:15 pm
Katie Lamb has done the amazing looking Fallen Angel in Tahoe
https://www.instagram.com/p/DCZyVk6yMGA/?igsh=MTAyMGZ6NDZqenV6ZA==

Vid of Jimmy and Shawn on it

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remus

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#12239 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2024, 05:29:30 pm
Mike Adams has climbed Ben Heason's rarely repeated Oz Bound E9. Might even be the second ascent?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCeiVE-taFh/?igsh=MTNrM2kwNmlkbzExcw==

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#12240 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2024, 07:26:03 pm
Nice one Dolph!

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#12241 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2024, 07:35:56 pm
Seems like hes been on a bit of a trad rampage recently

Mike Adams has climbed Ben Heason's rarely repeated Oz Bound E9. Might even be the second ascent?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCeiVE-taFh/?igsh=MTNrM2kwNmlkbzExcw==

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SA Chris

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#12243 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2024, 02:13:55 pm
In a day by the read of it?

36chambers

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#12244 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2024, 03:02:50 pm
In a day by the read of it?

Quote from: Steezy Sean's insta
Floatin V16-
Mizugaki day trip from a few weeks back.

Classic climbing speak, where it could mean anything.

I'm going to take my default position and assume the least favourable scenario (8 years of effort, many missed important life events, 2 3D printed replicas, and finally "sent on a recent day trip" after 4 lattice training cycles and 3 months of dieting ;))

jwi

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#12245 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2024, 03:07:11 pm
In a day by the read of it?

Quote from: Steezy Sean's insta
Floatin V16-
Mizugaki day trip from a few weeks back.

Classic climbing speak, where it could mean anything.

I'm going to take my default position and assume the least favourable scenario (8 years of effort, many missed important life events, 2 3D printed replicas, and finally "sent on a recent day trip" after 4 lattice training cycles and 3 months of dieting ;))

haha! +1

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#12246 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2024, 08:53:12 pm
Good translation 36c.

I accidentally scrolled down some of the initial comments. Won't be doing that again.

Great ascent tho.

remus

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#12247 Re: significant repeats
Yesterday at 08:09:21 pm
Buster Martin has done Super Crackinette 9a+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DCr3-MzNQ9O/?igsh=MTZzM2cwZTFwMW9hYg==

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