[Adam Lincoln]

9a+ for Franco!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/twll_mawr-636/the_meltdown_direct-656017

 

[Bradders]

Not a significant repeat is it! New thread? Not often we get new 9a+s in the UK!

[Adam Lincoln]

Not a significant repeat is it! New thread? Not often we get new 9a+s in the UK!

Haha good point! Though kind of half a repeat.

[mark20]

Is it a repeat of Meltdown Direct 9a+ ? or a different route?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/twll_mawr-636/meltdown_direct-654579

[Andy F]

Sounds like a variant of a variant.

[lukeyboy]

Sounds like a variant of a variant.

Here we go again 😂

Nice one Franco

[Ged]

Is it a repeat of Meltdown Direct 9a+ ? or a different route?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/twll_mawr-636/meltdown_direct-654579

I think it's the first ascent of meltdown direct

[abarro81]

I think Mark's point may have been that there seem to be 2 meltdown directs on ukc, with different FA dates and logs - are there 2 variations?

[crimpinainteasy]

Surprised no one is talking about Seb Bouin who recently sent his long-term project and is proposing 9c for it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CdLWSLMDKgt/

Edit nvm, realised I missed the new thread.

[shurt]

I think Franco outlines the full route on his Instagram - with grades for pitches - and has called it The Slate Modern (looks like this includes the Meltdown pitch). Don't know how this tallys with UKC

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cc28g5eDf3K/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[mark20]

Yeh, what abarrows said. I'm going to assume it's a duplicate log entry?

Anyway, just seen a great photo on UKC instagram ( ) , of Iain Cooper on the mantel move of Dynamics of Change at Burbage South. Anyone know if he did it? I don't remember hearing about that. There's some impressive footage of him dropping off from that position in the 'Friends of the Grit' video, which is quite exciting! Great effort

[i_a_coops]

Ha thanks for the heads up, I didn't even know that photo had been taken!

I didn't send - I got through the hard bit of the rockover that go, but my left hand had numbed out so I couldn't tell if I'd got the handhold or not! Didn't want to risk bringing the right hand up to match as slipping off there could be quite invert-y so I reversed a move and bailed.

Next session I tried it it was actually too cold for the heel rubber to stick (excuses excuses) then I left the country for a few months. Can't wait for the rematch this winter though!

[mark20]

Great effort, I can imagine it being a pretty grim fall from that position!

[cheque]

In a stark illustration of just how hard it is to find partners for the Chew Valley, Italian/ Polish visitor Filip Babicz has made the first rope solo ascent of Appointment with Death.

I don’t really understand rope soloing but it looks just as sketchy as leading it, ie probably just a faffier version of free soloing the thing, especially as this is apparently only the second ascent without a pad in the fall zone.

[remus]

Phwoar, that's spicy!

He mentioned it might be the first rope solo of an E9 but I think Wojciech Szymanowicz rope soloed Rewind at Carn Vellan https://climbing-history.org/climb/643/rewind

[Paul B]

I don’t really understand rope soloing but it looks just as sketchy as leading it, ie probably just a faffier version of free soloing the thing, especially as this is apparently only the second ascent without a pad in the fall zone.

It's more sketchy really; I can't imagine a soloist or any other device being able to take in as quick ( ) as a friend in running spikes. Just imagine your device being a bit of a pig on the upper moves? 

[sherlock]

I don't know much about rope solo either but it looks very lonely out there...
Babiscz mentions it's the 5th ascent. SW, Pope and who else?

[edshakey]

Tom Randall 2013, then Nathan Lee 2014

[sherlock]

Ta.

[Adam Lincoln]

Eders just done rainman! 💪

[shark]

Awesome. 👏

Did he do it the way Steve went or the on-trend variation way he was trying it last year?

[Adam Lincoln]

His own way i think. Josh is sticking to Steves way.

[Kingy]

Thats brilliant! 

[abarro81]

Cool! What's the variation thing? Different sequence or different line?

[edshakey]

Awesome. 👏

Did he do it the way Steve went or the on-trend variation way he was trying it last year?

Can you elaborate on this? How different are the methods - lots of distinct moves? I have very little knowledge of the route but after Prowgate I'm pretty intruiged about this kind of thing, especially if it's significantly different difficulty.

Edit: beaten to this question by Barrows by like 2 seconds lol