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Brass Monkeys
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fiveknuckle21
menacing presence
Posts: 172
Karma: +4/-1
Brass Monkeys
November 19, 2008, 10:32:37 am
Think i might make a visit today, do you top out on the left or right side of the arete? Cheers
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dave
Guest
#1 Re: Brass Monkeys
November 19, 2008, 10:35:01 am
combination of both - from the jug, you rock round right of the arete (standing on the little crimp), layback up a bit then rock back left onto said jug, then walk up the slebby end face to finish.
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fiveknuckle21
menacing presence
Posts: 172
Karma: +4/-1
#2 Re: Brass Monkeys
November 19, 2008, 10:40:43 am
Cheers dude, that was quick!
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Johnny Brown
forum hero
Posts: 11481
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#3 Re: Brass Monkeys
November 19, 2008, 12:27:08 pm
IF you can get to it, the topout should be nothing.
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cofe
forum hero
Posts: 5797
Karma: +187/-5
#4 Re: Brass Monkeys
November 19, 2008, 12:37:36 pm
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nik at work
forum hero
Posts: 3597
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#5 Re: Brass Monkeys
November 19, 2008, 12:49:46 pm
What, £2.50?
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a dense loner
forum hero
Posts: 7165
Karma: +388/-28
#6 Re: Brass Monkeys
November 19, 2008, 07:24:00 pm
first funny post you've ever written, i nearly wadded you but luckily stopped myself
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Jim
Trusted Users
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Mostly Injured
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Pregnant Horse
#7 Re: Brass Monkeys
November 20, 2008, 02:45:58 pm
I should point out that nothing and fuck all are 2 different things altogether
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The Sausage
forum abuser
Posts: 645
Karma: +72/-1
#8 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 06:36:50 pm
...So, I've been on this today. Was going from the low part of the left hand flake and the crimp, geting a right toe hook and bouncing left hand to the top of the flake thing. I could do the move, but pretty low percentage, and definitely not sticking it on the link.
Have just seen a vid of Tim Palmer doing it by getting a left foot jam to move left hand up the flake to the middle bit, holding the swing and campus-ing the rest... is this the accepted beta?
Anyone got any other beta. I like to be as confused as posible about what I'm going to try...
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cofe
forum hero
Posts: 5797
Karma: +187/-5
#9 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 07:22:56 pm
I took the swing with left hand on lower bit, toe in roof - not really a swing. Then campussed. You can swing a right heel round once you've held swing and bounce left hand along, but it felt too stretched for me. Although Jonboy might have double heels or one heel and one toe hook in Winter Sessions.
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dave
Guest
#10 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 07:36:56 pm
I think i bodytensioned out of the swing with rh on crimp and lh on flake (top?) with a foot in the roof, then went right heel on the right side of the prow which made the move to jug with rh piss and no danger of ejecting yourself off the landing area.
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petercrimp
newbie
Posts: 8
Karma: +0/-0
#11 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 07:48:03 pm
Maybe this might help :
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account_inactive
forum hero
Posts: 2706
Karma: +85/-25
#12 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 07:59:34 pm
This problem must be 7b if you are that tall you can reach the good left hand hold to take the swing. Cofe and I have the same sequence BTW
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cofe
forum hero
Posts: 5797
Karma: +187/-5
#13 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 08:13:14 pm
You have to be tall enough to do it dave's 'piss' (hate this unnecessary expression) way, otherwise your centre of gravity is sucked too far under.
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petercrimp
newbie
Posts: 8
Karma: +0/-0
#14 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 08:24:52 pm
Definitely easier for the tall but its a brilliant problem
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account_inactive
forum hero
Posts: 2706
Karma: +85/-25
#15 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 08:59:12 pm
Sorry Peter I'm just bitter about being a midget
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petercrimp
newbie
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#16 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 08, 2011, 09:20:05 pm
Don't worry None offence was taken
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Bonjoy
Global Moderator
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Leafy gent
Posts: 9945
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#17 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 09, 2011, 08:53:17 am
I reach to middle of ramp and crimp off a right heelhook in a good dish on the start ledge, left foot braced on rock below, both legs locked straight. Cutloose then opposing heels (one on base of ramp, one on right lip), walk hands up to jug without having to campus. Swing round and finish up RHS of arete.
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north_country_boy
junky
Posts: 939
Karma: +37/-0
#18 Re: Brass Monkeys
March 09, 2011, 09:34:58 am
Similar beta here, although I took the tension/swing with my right foot (top of toes) dragging around the lip to the right, on a small pebble which it snags on if I remember rightly. While holding the crimp (RH) and ramp (LH).
It seemed to take much of the sting out the swing when slapping up with the left, then as Bonjoy said, clamp with both heels to go to the good hold with the RH
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Nibile
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Posts: 8004
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Part Animal Part Machine
#19 Re: Brass Monkeys
February 16, 2012, 09:24:17 am
resurrect:
how really morpho is this problem? I was thinking about trying it but read on the guide that it suits the tall.
is it so morpho that it becomes impossible, or simply (a lot) harder?
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Johnny Brown
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#20 Re: Brass Monkeys
February 16, 2012, 12:30:31 pm
I've done it, and I think BBGuns has too. I felt very stretched, and the reach and consequent cut loose were the crux. Not one I'd rush to do again... but I'm not a big roof fan.
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Nibile
forum hero
Posts: 8004
Karma: +743/-4
Part Animal Part Machine
#21 Re: Brass Monkeys
February 16, 2012, 03:26:27 pm
Quote from: Johnny Brown on February 16, 2012, 12:30:31 pm
I've done it, and I think BBGuns has too.
hmmm... grit master and power monster have done it...
...
I'll give it a go anyway!!!
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abarro81
forum hero
Posts: 4320
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#22 Re: Brass Monkeys
February 16, 2012, 03:31:12 pm
If you get right hand onsloper instead of crimp the swing is way easier to hold as its a bit more undercutty to kill it.
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tim palmer
forum abuser
Posts: 736
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#23 Re: Brass Monkeys
February 16, 2012, 03:45:28 pm
I am 5'9'' and I thought it was fine reach-wise, bottom end of the grade.
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highrepute
forum hero
Posts: 1293
Karma: +109/-0
Blah
#24 Re: Brass Monkeys
February 16, 2012, 04:00:25 pm
I'm 5'8", but have a -1" ape index, I could reach between the holds but I was so stretched I couldn't manage any movement (i'm sure a stronger me could have pulled something off).
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