[fiveknuckle21]

Think i might make a visit today, do you top out on the left or right side of the arete? Cheers

[dave]

combination of both - from the jug, you rock round right of the arete (standing on the little crimp), layback up a bit then rock back left onto said jug, then walk up the slebby end face to finish.

[fiveknuckle21]

Cheers dude, that was quick!

[Johnny Brown]

IF you can get to it, the topout should be nothing.

[cofe]

 

[nik at work]

What, £2.50?

[a dense loner]

first funny post you've ever written, i nearly wadded you but luckily stopped myself

[Jim]

I should point out that nothing and fuck all are 2 different things altogether

[The Sausage]

...So, I've been on this today. Was going from the low part of the left hand flake and the crimp, geting a right toe hook and bouncing left hand to the top of the flake thing. I could do the move, but pretty low percentage, and definitely not sticking it on the link.

Have just seen a vid of Tim Palmer doing it by getting a left foot jam to move left hand up the flake to the middle bit, holding the swing and campus-ing the rest... is this the accepted beta?

Anyone got any other beta. I like to be as confused as posible about what I'm going to try...

[cofe]

I took the swing with left hand on lower bit, toe in roof - not really a swing. Then campussed. You can swing a right heel round once you've held swing and bounce left hand along, but it felt too stretched for me. Although Jonboy might have double heels or one heel and one toe hook in Winter Sessions.

[dave]

I think i bodytensioned out of the swing with rh on crimp and lh on flake (top?) with a foot in the roof, then went right heel on the right side of the prow which made the move to jug with rh piss and no danger of ejecting yourself off the landing area.

[petercrimp]

Maybe this might help :

[account_inactive]

This problem must be 7b if you are that tall you can reach the good left hand hold to take the swing.  Cofe and I have the same sequence BTW

[cofe]

You have to be tall enough to do it dave's 'piss' (hate this unnecessary expression) way, otherwise your centre of gravity is sucked too far under.

[petercrimp]

Definitely easier for the tall but its a brilliant problem

[account_inactive]

Sorry Peter I'm just bitter about being a midget

[petercrimp]

Don't worry  None offence was taken

[Bonjoy]

I reach to middle of ramp and crimp off a right heelhook in a good dish on the start ledge, left foot braced on rock below, both legs locked straight. Cutloose then opposing heels (one on base of ramp, one on right lip), walk hands up to jug without having to campus. Swing round and finish up RHS of arete.

[north_country_boy]

Similar beta here, although I took the tension/swing with my right foot (top of toes) dragging around the lip to the right, on a small pebble which it snags on if I remember rightly. While holding the crimp (RH) and ramp (LH).

It seemed to take much of the sting out the swing when slapping up with the left, then as Bonjoy said, clamp with both heels to go to the good hold with the RH

[Nibile]

resurrect:
how really morpho is this problem? I was thinking about trying it but read on the guide that it suits the tall.
is it so morpho that it becomes impossible, or simply (a lot) harder?

[Johnny Brown]

I've done it, and I think BBGuns has too. I felt very stretched, and the reach and consequent cut loose were the crux. Not one I'd rush to do again... but I'm not a big roof fan.

[Nibile]

I've done it, and I think BBGuns has too.

hmmm... grit master and power monster have done it...  ...
I'll give it a go anyway!!!
 

[abarro81]

If you get right hand onsloper instead of crimp the swing is way easier to hold as its a bit more undercutty to kill it.

[tim palmer]

I am 5'9'' and I thought it was fine reach-wise, bottom end of the grade.

[highrepute]

I'm 5'8", but have a -1" ape index, I could reach between the holds but I was so stretched I couldn't manage any movement (i'm sure a stronger me could have pulled something off).

[Oldmanmatt]

If you get right hand onsloper instead of crimp the swing is way easier to hold as its a bit more undercutty to kill it.

Is that Beta?
Or have you been in the ring with Sloper, for a couple of rounds.

[T_B]

Unlike something like Jason's Undercut at Burbage (which is still nails for 6 footers and for some bizarre reason has been downgraded in the new guidebook?!), Brass Monkeys seems to be a bit of a gift unless you are v short. As a previous poster says, it's might even be more like 7b if you can reach out for the decent hold with yer left. Just look at how many folk have done it, compared to (the far more impressive looking IMHO) Golden Path, not a stone's throw away 

[Johnny Brown]

I guess most giants aren't so big as to accept things may be piss for the tall...

[highrepute]

If you get right hand onsloper instead of crimp the swing is way easier to hold as its a bit more undercutty to kill it.

Is that Beta?
Or have you been in the ring with Sloper, for a couple of rounds.

Saw 3 sends the other week and all 3 used the sloper. Seems like the crimp might be desolving a bit so in the past might  have been easier with it but not so much these days (at least that's what we thought).

[Oldmanmatt]

If you get right hand onsloper instead of crimp the swing is way easier to hold as its a bit more undercutty to kill it.

Is that Beta?
Or have you been in the ring with Sloper, for a couple of rounds.

Saw 3 sends the other week and all 3 used the sloper. Seems like the crimp might be desolving a bit so in the past might  have been easier with it but not so much these days (at least that's what we thought).

I was jesting, it just sounded like the description of a boxing match...Against Sloper...

[leeroy]

having had three sessions trying to hold the swing with my rh on the crimp i had written it off. went back and used the lower sloper as previously said, and did it in 20 minutes. makes the swing so so much easier, such good beta it felt like cheating  definately low end if not 7b+ using this beta.

[Nibile]

Will be there in a couple of hours!

[Doylo]

I vote 7b+ with the sloper beta.

[dave]

What sloper is this?

[Johnny Brown]

Something on the lip of the downhill face, ie a bit further back from the crimp for your right. You can see it in that recent vid Nathan (I think) uploaded.

[205Chris]

What sloper is this?

The one Leeroy uses in

[Doylo]

It's a different proposition with that beta

[205Chris]

It's a different proposition with that beta

Agreed. Feels much easier then Mossatrocity using that beta.