(A specific type of) Bouldering near Glasgow (Read 9957 times)

magpie · October 15, 2008, 04:31:49 pm

Magpie in bouldering related post shocker!

Is there any decent bouldering near(ish) Glasgow; slabby, crimpy, technical stuff, rather than anything overhanging and remotely thuggy?

If there's nothing near, where would be the nearest place? Any ideas?

First one to suggest Dumby gets a clip round the ear

Fiend · October 15, 2008, 05:32:43 pm

DUMBY. It does fit all of the above although you have to look around to avoid the thuggier stuff.

Anything at Craigmore or similar?? You have the Lowland Outcrops guide, right??

Garheugh Point does have some of that stuff for sure. Bit of a drive though...

GCW · October 15, 2008, 07:10:46 pm

I'd second the Black Font, has various stuff in the lower grades that is slabby and crimpy.

Craigmore has good problems too, although some cross into the highball/route category.

There's some stuff dotted around Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, and Loch Lubnaig.

Wolfcrag has some wall stuff on crimps, mostly lower grade again.

How far from Glasgow are you willing to go?

Jim · October 15, 2008, 10:23:06 pm

I'll third dumby, some excellent slabby wall stuff in the lower grades

SA Chris · October 16, 2008, 08:24:43 am

Some great stuff in that vein at the Trossachs boulders, lovely setting too (unlike Dumby). About 40 mins from Glavegas I reckon (depends where in the city you are tho').

Get your paws on one of The Stone Country guides, both cover the area pretty well.

magpie · October 16, 2008, 09:42:17 am

I keep getting error messages when I try and reply to this properly, so I'm going to go for short and concise with no quotes. Maybe I'll bore you all with my long winded version later.

All: Thank you.

Dumby - no

Trossachs - yes

magpie · October 16, 2008, 11:27:44 am

Oh look, it works as long as I don't quote you all in the same reply, clearly my punishment for mocking others when they're unable to work quotes. So, in more detail;

Firstly, I shall assume you are all trying to wind me up with your Dumby suggestions

We're not on speaking terms at the moment so I won't be going there (ever, ever again, stupid Dumby) - this has nothing to do with the fact I am weak like kitten and can't manage any of the problems ???

SA Chris: I'm southside, but only just, so I reckon the Trossachs is just about 40mins away, it's top of the list so far for definite. And yes, I should really have the Stone Country guides, I know

GCW: Was out at Craigmore a couple of weeks back and it was sodden and really badly effected by run off, it's been fairly wet of late so I'm guessing it won't be in much better nick than last time. Craigmaddie's out for similar reasons. I'd forgotten about Wolfcrag though.

Travel wise, up to an hour would be ideal, under two essential, I'm not really up for 4 hours in the car unless it's really worth it.

Fiend: I do, but my last couple of choices based on reading the book have been fairly disastrous so I thought it would be a safer option to get you lot to tell me what to do.

Garheugh Point looks ace. It's going on my To Do list for sure.

PS. The clip on the ear is all yours, for being first to say Dumby

Anyone else bored yet

SA Chris · October 16, 2008, 11:32:43 am

Wolfcrag is OK, as an evening training venue, but is a quarry and not very pretty. If you have a bit more time I would head elsewhere. Not got guide to hand, and can't think of anything else offhand.

magpie · October 16, 2008, 11:58:49 am

Thanks Chris, I'm pretty set on the Trossachs, I've tracked down a few photos and it looks like the kind of thing I was thinking about, I could do with some pretty and inspiring views rather than another weekend spent in minging quarries. Plus the weather isn't looking great and if I have to wander about in the rain I'd rather do it somewhere a bit scenic

SA Chris · October 16, 2008, 01:04:32 pm

Good work. Just bear in mind these boulders are quite slow drying and a lot of probs face north, so may take a bit to dry. Lovely for just going for a walk and checking them out though. The Ben Ledi boulders (not far away) are a long steep walk though, and involve a bit of a heather bash to get there.

GCW · October 16, 2008, 02:05:29 pm

Last time I went to the Trossachs boulders I came home covered in ticks.
Good bouldering though.

andy_e · October 16, 2008, 02:30:24 pm

Somebody mistake you for a guidebook?

SA Chris · October 16, 2008, 02:34:58 pm

Or a boulder? I think parasitic arachnids and midgies should be minimal by now, but worth being on the lookout.

magpie · October 16, 2008, 02:49:29 pm

It's way too cold to have any skin on show, the tics won't stand a chance against the layers of lycra and leg warmers. Ta for the heads up though, will keep an eye out.

sharkey · October 16, 2008, 08:28:05 pm

There is some reasonable bouldering in Glen Croe (Arrochar), crimpy slabs a plenty, D mac produced a small online guide somewhere?, great mountain scenery and only about an hour from Vegas.

magpie · October 17, 2008, 09:17:29 am

Ta, it's probably on Stone Country or Dave's site, neither of which are allowed by work

I'll have a look for it next time I'm online minus the stupid work filter.

slackline · October 17, 2008, 09:45:22 am

Quote from: magpie on October 17, 2008, 09:17:29 am

Ta, it's probably on Stone Country or Dave's site, neither of which are allowed by work :'(

Use a proxy

magpie · October 17, 2008, 10:18:34 am

The IT man and I have had words over my use of proxy servers in the past, that's not to say I won't just do it again though

SA Chris · October 17, 2008, 10:35:22 am

You can get onto SC Shirley?

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Glen_Massan
http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/The_Brack

In the same (ish) area. Not been to either though. If the weather is too ming, you could always hike up The Cobbler (no this is not a euphemism).

magpie · October 17, 2008, 11:09:15 am

I can get onto SC, yes, I've printed the Trossachs stuff out. I'll have a look at those 2 as well, ta. Weather looks horrid so I think were going to head up that way and have a wander if we can't climb; deep, deep joy, walking about in the rain ???

Are you local Chris or just very helpful?

SA Chris · October 17, 2008, 11:44:04 am

Aberdeen - not exactly local, but in relative terms more so than most people on here. As for helpful, well not for me to judge?

220bpm · November 04, 2008, 11:28:41 am

Quote from: SA Chris on October 16, 2008, 01:04:32 pm

The Ben Ledi boulders (not far away) are a long steep walk though, and involve a bit of a heather bash to get there.

The Ledi boulders - 15 minutes along the track by the loch towards the holiday lodges then follow a waymarked path uphill to the left for 20 min into the high corrie (past the plantation) as far as a white marker post. Turn hard left and wander up beside a small burn for another 10min. 45min or so with daysack and mat. Well worth the effort. Got some really good lower grade problems there on lovely rock. Plenty harder stuff too including the awesome looking Tombstone Wall which goes from sitter at 7B/+. Most are of a decent height without being highball and the landings are good.
Theres a topo on Scottish Climbs, plus good info in the Stone Country books.

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html

The better problems included Tams Wall, Cortege Crack and Pallbearer. I've been a couple of times now and will definately be returning