[CanadianDave]

Hi all!
I'm a 19 year old Canadian student who is going to be here in England for the next 3 months. I dragged my crashpad across the atlantic so I'm hoping to do as much bouldering as possible while i'm here (probably heading to font for midterm). Anyway point is i was hoping to maybe find someone to climb with or to tell me where the best places to go are.

Any help would be great!
Thanks alot- Dave

[dmitri]

Where are u at the moment? What grade u climb at?

[Bubba]

Where are you going to be based in England? Let us know and we'll point you in the right direction...

[CanadianDave]

Well I'm staying at a campus in Harlow now. From my understanding thats not near any rock at all...

But i mean i have no problem with getting a train somewhere for a weekend. I have fridays and mondays off so my weekends are quite long.

as for what grade i'm climbing at, I'm not really familiar with the european grades....I can climb around V5 some V6s with the hueco grades....so thats what....6a? 6b?

anyway hopefully someone will want to meet up for some bouldering?
I found a website for bouldering at the peak is it? but found even the guides provided there didnt seem like enough information to just head there on my own....maybe not though..

Cheers (as they say here), Dave

[Bubba]

If you've got Mondays and Fridays off and don't mind a bit of travel then you'll have no problems - I have to say that Harlow is not the ideal location, but compared to Candian distances, anywhere in the UK is close really...

Your nearest decent bouldering will probably the Southern Sandstone - see : http://www.canaryclimbs.com/sandstone_update_uk.htm. This is a new site but worth keeping an eye on.

You could go west to the South West, ie Dartmoor, North Devon Coast, etc or you could head North for the Peak District where you've got a lot high quality gritstone bouldering.

Further afield you've got North Wales, Yorkshire Gritstone, Northumberland Sandstone, Lakes sandstone and mountain rock, and more.

Within a few hours on the train you've got access to a great diversity of bouldering. There's many further options in Wales, Ireland, and Scotland but you're getting into much greater travelling time then.

Have a look through the links from this site, we've got many of the best known bouldering sites on there. If you're headed Peak wards, then I'm sure one of us could show you about  :D

[dave]

Yo you wanna get your ass up to the Peak first of all- it is the be all and end all i'm afraid.

Its just starting to cool down now for the winter so you're in time for the good conditions. I gotta say your location of Harlow blows are far as local crags go, but the UK isn't that big so you should be able to get around.

Where are you from in canada? I love canada, its the dope shit!

[CanadianDave]

Well after looking at the pictures on this site i've got to say i definitely want to head to the peak....probably fairly often.

Whats the deal on places to stay near there? Whats the best plan?
Are the hostels or anything?
next weekend probably be when i head up first.

Are there always people climbing there? I come from a part of canada with a pretty small climbing comunity and our "hotspots" are often deserted.

thanks for any help, dave

[CanadianDave]

I'm from Newfoundland.
Pretty smally populated island so not alot of climbers there yet....lots of potential for great climbing though.....it is called the rock.

[Bubba]

You're in for a bit of a shock if you're used to a quiet area - the Peak at weekends can get horribly crowded.

However,  if you know where to go you can usually escape the masses and still do good stuff. I won't be around for a couple of weeks - can anyone else show CanadianDave about?

[dave]

I will be mad for it once i get back from sardinia in a fortnight. damn straight mutha fukkaz!

[CanadianDave]

Yeah that sounds awesome guys, it looks like this forum is going to help....i was afraid all it would get me was:

"..oh yeah head to the peak....its north of where you are now"

Sardinia? is that all i've hear it is? thought about maybe taking a trip there depending on costs what about font? does it live up to the hype? worth heading there for midterm?

also what about places to stay near peak? are there hostels...or cheap motels if not? if so how far away and how would one transport to the crags from them?

[james]

Ther is some camping and some youth hostels But you have to be a member (it does not costs much to join the yha).  There are hostels in matlock, bakewell, hathersage and ravenstor.  All of these are close to the crags.  Call 0870 770 8868 for their customer services.
I would be happy to show you around.  We are out whenever we dont have work/school.  We spend most of time in peak but often go further a feild.  You could also kip at my house in matlock if you want.  Nearest crag is about 2 min away with stanage and roaches taking about 25 min each.
Cheers

James

[Big Frank]

Yo you wanna get your ass up to the Peak first of all- it is the be all and end all i'm afraid.

Really! http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/index.jsp , Yorkshire has more to offer for the boulderer.

My Canadian bros in law is over for 7 weeks, tonight he gets his first trip to Slipstones!

[Jim]

ditto, if you ever fancy seeing manchesters premier bouldering venue - hobson moor quarry! - I'd be more than glad to give you the tour

[AndyR]

thought about maybe taking a trip there depending on costs what about font? does it live up to the hype? worth heading there for midterm?

Not half!  Almost the entire Irish bouldering population (and associated ex-pats :D ) will be there from 4 - 19 Oct.

It will not dissapoint! unless it's raining....

[Carnage]

Hye man,

If you're only here for 3 months I wouldn't bother with the Southern Sandstone which will start to be 'out of season' soon.

With the cooler weather coming its gotta be grit.

[fatboySlimfast]

Southern Sandstone will soon be out of season?????????????????
Is it ever 'in'................I went to High rocks and was deeply un-impressed.

Canadian Dave, from where u are, it would probably take longer to get to the southern sandstone than it would to get to the grit!!!(Your prob in shock at the british road sytem)  Giv us a shout mate, out most weekends, and mondays as well

[Big Frank]

Not half!  Almost the entire Irish bouldering population (and associated ex-pats :D ) will be there from 4 - 19 Oct.

All 4 of you, that must take some organising!

[Rhys]

Hey Dave,

Similarly, if you ever make it to Wales (and you should because it's a beautiful place with some of the best climbing in the UK) give me a shout and I'm shure something could be arranged :D .
Rhys

[Bubba]

Yorkshire has more to offer for the boulderer.

Yeah, but it's another hour and a half on what's already a fair journey, and without a car it's trickier to get between crags. In the Peak you can get a bus to Fox House and you've got about 7 different venues within half an hour's walk.

[AndyR]

All 4 of you, that must take some organising!

That's including our lucky mascot yeah?

Oh man, I can't wait to go to font  

[Carnage]

Southern Sandstone will soon be out of season?????????????????
Is it ever 'in'................I went to High rocks and was deeply un-impressed.

Its been good this year- Particulary for High Rocks. Can't remember the last time it was dry, but now with the recent rain it'll will not be worth making the journey. Plus you really need someone to show you round the good stuff.

[fatboySlimfast]

i work quite a lot darn the smoke, wats best bouldering wall? went to mile end during the summer but ended up avin an argument with the bloke behind the counter, not that im a arsey bastard or anything

[Bubba]

What was the argument about ?

[Adam Lincoln]

i work quite a lot darn the smoke, wats best bouldering wall? went to mile end during the summer but ended up avin an argument with the bloke behind the counter, not that im a arsey bastard or anything

Mile Ends good for bouldering... If you know the classics ;-)
I like you spend a fair bit of time darn South :-(

Next time your down, give us a shout, ill point you at some good problems

[Carnage]

Definitely the Castle. Loadsa people give it stick and say its unfriendly but thats a loada bollocks. Its got the best walls/facilities (the upstairs features wall is as close as you're gonna get to grit for an artificial). Loads of problems, changed regularly and set hard. None of this supposed uk 7a wank that Mile End sets (a mate of mine flashes 'em there and has a mare with Castle 6b's!)

[Adam Lincoln]

Definitely the Castle. Loadsa people give it stick and say its unfriendly but thats a loada bollocks. Its got the best walls/facilities (the upstairs features wall is as close as you're gonna get to grit for an artificial). Loads of problems, changed regularly and set hard. None of this supposed uk 7a wank that Mile End sets (a mate of mine flashes 'em there and has a mare with Castle 6b's!)

Aye, went to Castle last week, was very impressed!

Only one desp hard problem set though and thats the thing that traverses on the grey grit things, with your feet above your head(almost!)

[fatboySlimfast]

What was the argument about ?

I objected to how much he was asking for one session of bouldering, joining fee etc. he got a little bit lippy so i went into one about shit climbing walls charging for a single visit etc when the place is a registered charity as well.
id been abbing down canary wharf all day in the sun so was a little hot and bothered :wink:  besides he was a cnut

[Adam Lincoln]

What was the argument about ?

I objected to how much he was asking for one session of bouldering, joining fee etc. he got a little bit lippy so i went into one about shit climbing walls charging for a single visit etc when the place is a registered charity as well.
id been abbing down canary wharf all day in the sun so was a little hot and bothered :wink:  besides he was a cnut

Is your name Dave by any chance?

[Big Frank]

Yorkshire has more to offer for the boulderer.

Yeah, but it's another hour and a half on what's already a fair journey, and without a car it's trickier to get between crags. In the Peak you can get a bus to Fox House and you've got about 7 different venues within half an hour's walk.

Very true but Yorkshire crags are not all so romote. Public transport is available to Ilkley, Almscliff, Brimham, Whitehouses, Shipley, Caley, Woodhouse.

[Carnage]

There is a lot more harder stuff set by little Mark (can't remember his second name) who's a strong boy. Its scattered around quite alot and not the most easily idenitified but is defo the hardest stuff there. And some absolute classics on the features, you just need to be shown. And I would oblige but am outa the game for a while fucked finger.

Good to see you broadening your horizons and moving to the dark side!! :twisted:

[fatboySlimfast]

Good to see you broadening your horizons and moving to the dark side!!

if thats directed at me, i have to say that as soon as me jobs done im streaking out home  like bubba at a set of traffic lights in front of some young girlies

[Carnage]

Sorry - Not you....

Aimed at Adam- That well known Mile End regular  :wink:

[Bubba]

like bubba at a set of traffic lights in front of some young girlies

Don't joke, that car is like some sort of jailbait magnet - teenies keep waving at me and stuff.

Ah, the joy of a midlife crisis  :wink:   I can suck my paunch in, and don my Burberry cap, hang out the window "fancy a ride, darlin'?"

[CanadianDave]

Well that all sounds fantastic, i'll probably try to head up to peak first then it seems to have the most recomendations.

What exactly does kip mean James?

The offers of people to show me around are especially appreciated. I wont be able to make it up until probably next friday i can hang around up there for a few solid days of climbing (i'll be furious if the weathers bad). I'm itching to get on some rock, I'll probably head in to a gym on either sat, sun, or mon though.

Anyway if someone is willing to show me about we should try to make more definite plans to meet later next week??

About joing the Yha can you just show up and join when you want to stay at a hostel or do you have to be a member for a while beforehand?

Thanks for all the support, Dave

[Bubba]

What exactly does kip mean James?

It means "be my sex bitch"  :D

Ok, it just means sleep really.

[CanadianDave]

yes..i thought it might mean sleep...somewhere to stay up there i wouldnt have to pay for would actually be quite ideal if someone was willing, i'd happily chip in for gas or "petrol" pay for lunches? whatever? i'd still save money which would let me save more for travel for climbing.

[Bubba]

Well James lives with his folks in Matlock (South Peak),  which also conveniently has a train station, and I know he's got a car, and is keen and strong, so I'd take him up on his offer if I were you.

[CanadianDave]

That sounds good to me if the offer still stands!
How strong is strong around here? What grades are most of you climbing at?

Also the castle is the best bet for a climbing gym is it?

[Avoiding the Traitor]

I didn't know he have passed his driving .. blimey.

And also I live near Matlock too.

[Big Frank]

All 4 of you, that must take some organising!

That's including our lucky mascot yeah?

Oh man, I can't wait to go to font  

  Hey  :asshole:  in 18 moths time I'll be having a 40th birthday trip there, fancy coming? :alco:

[Bubba]

That sounds good to me if the offer still stands!
How strong is strong around here? What grades are most of you climbing at?

Why not drop him an email/private msg from here?

Personally I'm heavy and weak but James is at least V10 strong, and the others on the board range across the grades as far as I know.

[Carnage]

That sounds good to me if the offer still stands!
How strong is strong around here? What grades are most of you climbing at?

Also the castle is the best bet for a climbing gym is it?

For bouldering, yeah by a long shot. Although the Westway is good for routes if you're into that roped-up nonsense  :wink:

If ya need showing round gimme a shout, although I'll be in Oz til 10/10. I'll do V7/V8 ish on a good day.

[james]

Yeah the offer still stands.  We will be out in the peak next weekend and then off to north wales for some 7a slate action : .  I can pick you up from chesterfeild or matlock depending on what is best for you.  For matlock, get the train to derby and then get another one to matlock.  For chesterfeild, stay on the train for a few min longer and then get off at the station.  Matlock is about 1 min from me and Chesterfeild is about 10 min depending on traffic.
P.M me and we can sort it out.
Cheers

James

[Rhys]

Excuse me for being a nosey get, but what you got planned for the Quarries? I love slate especially this time of year :D .

[james]

My big 3 are bungles arete, the very big and the very small and the quarryman.  I might also try bobbys grove and dawes of perception but I will have to see how I feel.  I went up there for the first time last weekend.  It was realy good and I cant wait to get back.  Windows of perception is excelent,  quite bold aswell.  My halo was also good but maybe a bit soft for E7?
Cheers

James

[Rhys]

Holey Moley! Good effort man, I've always thought that combining Very Big... and Bungles Arete would be an amazing feat (Or even by their own they've only had 1 repeat a piece). Really can't comment on My Halo as it's well out of my league at the moment but I've tried Windows on a toprope and I always get to the crux and weep. Anyway, if you need a belayer give us a shout. :D

[james]

My halo is prety straight forward.  It is lots of high steps.  The most intimidating move is changing your right hand from the sidepull to the undercut but you have a bomber peige or gear by your chest so you arnt going no where if you fall off.  
The crux on windows is quite hard.  I thought about v9/10 for those 10 or so moves (from your hands on good hold to your hands on the jug by the peg).  The last section is quite bold aswell.  There is a 6b mantle very near the top.  You have to get your left foot in a small slot which never feels good,  a fall from there would not be pleasant.
I have not been on any of the other routes yet.  A combo ot VBVS and BA woud be something special.  We will have to see.
Cheers

James

[CanadianDave]

Yeah i went in to the Castle yesterday. Pretty nice gym. The featured wall upstairs was especially cool seeing as my home gym has only bolt on holds. Not cheap though is it? But the atmosphere was good and everyone climbing there was friendly and helpful in pointing out problems.

[Carnage]

If you're gonna go a coupla times a week, then buy a monthly ticket (or quaterly if you're here for a few months). Monthly is about £35 and will save ya a lot of cash.