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Help! Looking to Boulder in England! (Read 9244 times)

Carnage

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#25 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:16:05 am
Definitely the Castle. Loadsa people give it stick and say its unfriendly but thats a loada bollocks. Its got the best walls/facilities (the upstairs features wall is as close as you're gonna get to grit for an artificial). Loads of problems, changed regularly and set hard. None of this supposed uk 7a wank that Mile End sets (a mate of mine flashes 'em there and has a mare with Castle 6b's!)

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#26 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:17:39 am
Quote from: "Carnage"
Definitely the Castle. Loadsa people give it stick and say its unfriendly but thats a loada bollocks. Its got the best walls/facilities (the upstairs features wall is as close as you're gonna get to grit for an artificial). Loads of problems, changed regularly and set hard. None of this supposed uk 7a wank that Mile End sets (a mate of mine flashes 'em there and has a mare with Castle 6b's!)


Aye, went to Castle last week, was very impressed!

Only one desp hard problem set though and thats the thing that traverses on the grey grit things, with your feet above your head(almost!)

fatboySlimfast

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#27 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:19:44 am
Quote
What was the argument about ?

I objected to how much he was asking for one session of bouldering, joining fee etc. he got a little bit lippy so i went into one about shit climbing walls charging for a single visit etc when the place is a registered charity as well.
id been abbing down canary wharf all day in the sun so was a little hot and bothered :wink:  besides he was a cnut

Adam Lincoln

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#28 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:21:42 am
Quote from: "fatboySlimfast"
Quote
What was the argument about ?

I objected to how much he was asking for one session of bouldering, joining fee etc. he got a little bit lippy so i went into one about shit climbing walls charging for a single visit etc when the place is a registered charity as well.
id been abbing down canary wharf all day in the sun so was a little hot and bothered :wink:  besides he was a cnut


Is your name Dave by any chance?

Big Frank

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#29 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:22:49 am
Quote from: "Bubba"
Quote from: "FH"
Yorkshire has more to offer for the boulderer.


Yeah, but it's another hour and a half on what's already a fair journey, and without a car it's trickier to get between crags. In the Peak you can get a bus to Fox House and you've got about 7 different venues within half an hour's walk.


Very true but Yorkshire crags are not all so romote. Public transport is available to Ilkley, Almscliff, Brimham, Whitehouses, Shipley, Caley, Woodhouse.

Carnage

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#30 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:23:10 am
There is a lot more harder stuff set by little Mark (can't remember his second name) who's a strong boy. Its scattered around quite alot and not the most easily idenitified but is defo the hardest stuff there. And some absolute classics on the features, you just need to be shown. And I would oblige but am outa the game for a while fucked finger.

Good to see you broadening your horizons and moving to the dark side!! :twisted:

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#31 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:29:56 am
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Good to see you broadening your horizons and moving to the dark side!!

if thats directed at me, i have to say that as soon as me jobs done im streaking out home  like bubba at a set of traffic lights in front of some young girlies

Carnage

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#32 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:33:59 am
Sorry - Not you....

Aimed at Adam- That well known Mile End regular  :wink:

Bubba

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#33 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 11:39:08 am
Quote from: "fatboySlimfast"
like bubba at a set of traffic lights in front of some young girlies

Don't joke, that car is like some sort of jailbait magnet - teenies keep waving at me and stuff.

Ah, the joy of a midlife crisis  :wink:   I can suck my paunch in, and don my Burberry cap, hang out the window "fancy a ride, darlin'?"

CanadianDave

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#34 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 01:08:06 pm
Well that all sounds fantastic, i'll probably try to head up to peak first then it seems to have the most recomendations.

What exactly does kip mean James?

The offers of people to show me around are especially appreciated. I wont be able to make it up until probably next friday i can hang around up there for a few solid days of climbing (i'll be furious if the weathers bad). I'm itching to get on some rock, I'll probably head in to a gym on either sat, sun, or mon though.

Anyway if someone is willing to show me about we should try to make more definite plans to meet later next week??

About joing the Yha can you just show up and join when you want to stay at a hostel or do you have to be a member for a while beforehand?

Thanks for all the support, Dave

Bubba

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#35 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 01:14:33 pm
Quote from: "CanadianDave"
What exactly does kip mean James?


It means "be my sex bitch"  :D

Ok, it just means sleep really.

CanadianDave

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#36 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 01:38:34 pm
yes..i thought it might mean sleep...somewhere to stay up there i wouldnt have to pay for would actually be quite ideal if someone was willing, i'd happily chip in for gas or "petrol" pay for lunches? whatever? i'd still save money which would let me save more for travel for climbing.

Bubba

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#37 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 01:48:51 pm
Well James lives with his folks in Matlock (South Peak),  which also conveniently has a train station, and I know he's got a car, and is keen and strong, so I'd take him up on his offer if I were you.

CanadianDave

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#38 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 01:56:32 pm
That sounds good to me if the offer still stands!
How strong is strong around here? What grades are most of you climbing at?

Also the castle is the best bet for a climbing gym is it?

Avoiding the Traitor

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#39 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 01:56:59 pm
I didn't know he have passed his driving .. blimey.

And also I live near Matlock too.

Big Frank

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#40 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 01:59:19 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "FH"

All 4 of you, that must take some organising!


That's including our lucky mascot yeah?

Oh man, I can't wait to go to font  :clap:



  Hey  :asshole:  in 18 moths time I'll be having a 40th birthday trip there, fancy coming? :alco:

Bubba

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#41 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 02:07:17 pm
Quote from: "CanadianDave"
That sounds good to me if the offer still stands!
How strong is strong around here? What grades are most of you climbing at?

Why not drop him an email/private msg from here?

Personally I'm heavy and weak but James is at least V10 strong, and the others on the board range across the grades as far as I know.

Carnage

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#42 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 12, 2003, 02:42:40 pm
Quote from: "CanadianDave"
That sounds good to me if the offer still stands!
How strong is strong around here? What grades are most of you climbing at?

Also the castle is the best bet for a climbing gym is it?



For bouldering, yeah by a long shot. Although the Westway is good for routes if you're into that roped-up nonsense  :wink:

If ya need showing round gimme a shout, although I'll be in Oz til 10/10. I'll do V7/V8 ish on a good day.

james

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#43 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 13, 2003, 09:10:13 am
Yeah the offer still stands.  We will be out in the peak next weekend and then off to north wales for some 7a slate action :8) .  I can pick you up from chesterfeild or matlock depending on what is best for you.  For matlock, get the train to derby and then get another one to matlock.  For chesterfeild, stay on the train for a few min longer and then get off at the station.  Matlock is about 1 min from me and Chesterfeild is about 10 min depending on traffic.
P.M me and we can sort it out.
Cheers

James

Rhys

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#44 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 13, 2003, 09:31:57 am
Excuse me for being a nosey get, but what you got planned for the Quarries? I love slate especially this time of year :D .

james

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#45 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 13, 2003, 10:19:29 am
My big 3 are bungles arete, the very big and the very small and the quarryman.  I might also try bobbys grove and dawes of perception but I will have to see how I feel.  I went up there for the first time last weekend.  It was realy good and I cant wait to get back.  Windows of perception is excelent,  quite bold aswell.  My halo was also good but maybe a bit soft for E7?
Cheers

James

Rhys

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#46 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 13, 2003, 09:55:11 pm
Holey Moley! Good effort man, I've always thought that combining Very Big... and Bungles Arete would be an amazing feat (Or even by their own they've only had 1 repeat a piece). Really can't comment on My Halo as it's well out of my league at the moment but I've tried Windows on a toprope and I always get to the crux and weep. Anyway, if you need a belayer give us a shout. :D

james

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#47 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 14, 2003, 09:41:04 am
My halo is prety straight forward.  It is lots of high steps.  The most intimidating move is changing your right hand from the sidepull to the undercut but you have a bomber peige or gear by your chest so you arnt going no where if you fall off.  
The crux on windows is quite hard.  I thought about v9/10 for those 10 or so moves (from your hands on good hold to your hands on the jug by the peg).  The last section is quite bold aswell.  There is a 6b mantle very near the top.  You have to get your left foot in a small slot which never feels good,  a fall from there would not be pleasant.
I have not been on any of the other routes yet.  A combo ot VBVS and BA woud be something special.  We will have to see.
Cheers

James

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#48 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 15, 2003, 01:21:51 pm
Yeah i went in to the Castle yesterday. Pretty nice gym. The featured wall upstairs was especially cool seeing as my home gym has only bolt on holds. Not cheap though is it? But the atmosphere was good and everyone climbing there was friendly and helpful in pointing out problems.

Carnage

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#49 Help! Looking to Boulder in England!
September 15, 2003, 03:03:36 pm
If you're gonna go a coupla times a week, then buy a monthly ticket (or quaterly if you're here for a few months). Monthly is about £35 and will save ya a lot of cash.   :)

 

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