[Somebody's Fool]

Not only did the aura surrounding Desperot receive a blow this weekend, so did the one surrounding Dobb Edge, the continuation of Chatsworth.  Long regarded of as ‘shit’, ‘wank’ and ‘log’ by activists who hadn’t been, or worse still, had, the actuality was rather different.

After doing Desperot we went over to investigate.  The first climbing one reaches is a pinnacle in a quarried bay.  Although it looks like a less impressive version of Tegness, the crack on it is dynamite.  Well worth a star and HVS 5b (highball V1/2).  Also on the smaller subsidiary pinnacle is a quality ‘monkey-up-a-stick’ problem from sitting that goes at around V3.  Bearing in mind the BMC grades.

Looking out from the pinnacle, there’s a small quarried bay down and left.  Here lies an obvious tall arête bounding a gully/chimney, again well worth a star and V2ish.  It’s obviously been done before as some serious digging had occurred to facilitate topping out.

There is also a fingery traverse line across the buttress, about V4 and a strong natural line.  We started sitting on the arête and went rightwards.  This may well have been done before as well.  Anyone know anything of these?

The centre of the wall, christened Dobbin’s Blog assuming it’s new, is brilliant.  E4 6c or V7/8 with a mean rockover to gain a distant ‘micro-hyphen.’ Johnny Brown nipped in for the first ascent. 

Just thought I’d mention these so those of you tempted by the photo of Desperot have more to go at.   

[saltbeef]

good knowledge beast. what is a "micro-hyphen?"

[SA Chris]

-

[andyh]

"Anyone know anything of these?"

with the exception of the jb line, these have all been done before by us, and we've seen chalk on them that wasnt ours (we never topped out on the high arete, just down-climbed).

the left downward arete of the big pinnacle is also a great vs solo, and many variants can be had on the piccacle as a whole (especially if its night time and you're drunk). the smaller pinnacle has also been done as separate left and right arete probs as well as the combo. actually we didnt do the combo arete problem from sitting so that could be yours.

a few other small bays around to explore, but generally its all fairly straightforward stuff, though i vaguely remember a few possibly hard lines. maybe

[saltbeef]

The centre of the wall, christened Dobbin’s Blog assuming it’s new, is brilliant.  E4 6c or V7/8 with a mean rockover to gain a distant ‘micro-hyphen.’ Johnny Brown nipped in for the first ascent. 

any photos of this?

[cowboyhat]

The micro-hyphen can't be that small, he's always boasting about how he can't crimp at all. 

Confusingly this statement is usually followed by walking up problems that in my opinion require crimping. eg. TAOWTHWAOTWHATHATWATH

[Jim]

He's no stranger to small holds, despite claiming otherwise

[Johnny Brown]

My first success on 'the move' ended in failure, largely due to being in shock at the smallness of the hold. On the second attempt I knew what to expect, so was able to think about climbing instead of just reeling in disbelief. Luckily your feet are on huge ledges so you don't actually have to pull. Next move much easier for those the size of the fool.

actually we didnt do the combo arete problem from sitting so that could be yours.

C'mon! Another new one! The Dob's Cock assis?

[grimer]

Quality obscurity appearing thick and fast. Had a visit to Harland Edge yesterday, a couple of great little buttresses giving a bunch of quality easier highballs in a lovely, trackless and remote setting. Reuben visited somewhere called The rabbit Warren which looked sweey too in a pic. And earlier this year visited Leashw Brow, small and classy.

[dave]

i've driven past harland a few times, looked like there aught to be summert there.

[Jacqusie]

Quality obscurity appearing thick and fast. Had a visit to Harland Edge yesterday, a couple of great little buttresses giving a bunch of quality easier highballs in a lovely, trackless and remote setting. Reuben visited somewhere called The rabbit Warren which looked sweey too in a pic. And earlier this year visited Leashw Brow, small and classy.

Dobb Edge does have some quality - although when I wrote the script for the Chatsworth 1996 book - I had a feeling we'd over egged the pudding somewhat.

Glad to see that the consensus for the Jamming Crack is HVS as we gave it & the Arete on the pinnacle VS.

We sniffed around Chatsworth a bit more after and found Beeley Hilltop - which is small ridge above beeley bridge (the hump back one with the traffic lights that the bikers so love) and found some okay quarried stuff & some much better natural Grit.

That might be the rabbitt Warren that Ruben found thats marked on the OS map.

Cheers

Si

[Jacqusie]

We sniffed around Chatsworth a bit more after and found Beeley Hilltop - which is small ridge above beeley bridge (the hump back one with the traffic lights that the bikers so love) and found some okay quarried stuff & some much better natural Grit.

That might be the rabbitt Warren that Ruben found thats marked on the OS map.

Indeed it is one and the same place.

Reuben, Clare, Andy Hutchinson & myself had a belting day up there yesterday. There are some hard micro routes that need a look still resembling Slipstones in amongst the quality lines already taken.

The rock is sound & top notch chatsworth grit - anyone interested in a visit?

Cheers

Si

[Jacqusie]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/1990793812/


The Hilltop end


Si

[Houdini]

I could see this again.

[Jacqusie]

I could see this again.

Thats well left on the corner of the estate on the hill compared to Beeley Hilltop.

Dobb edge is preety good for a day - Stevie Ray Has Passed away is a great HVS crack on the Pinnacle. I used to hide mi fags up there & go for a sneaky smoke...

si

[Percy B]

Done a lot of the good bits up here a few years back - on the way to and from some better bits of grit past the hunting lodge/tower thing in the grounds of Chatsworth. Obviously access is pretty dodgy, but there is quite a bit of nice natural grit tucked away in the grounds of Chatsworth if you are prepared to do a bit of covert rummaging around (boulders and routes). I remember a particularly good 7a+ overhanging wall - if anybody wants the directions on how to find it and other nice bits of rock with iffy access, ask me next time you're down The Works and i'll give you the beta.
There was also Big Als mega 7b on a nice block a ways further right from Gun buttress which I broke the starting hold on shortly after making the second ascent thus ruining it (for the 7b climber at least!) I still feel bad about this as it was an awesome problem. 

[Jacqusie]

wonder if any of its the same that we have found Percy. Be interested to know if there is any in the woods above the house etc? Will tap you up when next down the wall.  Cheers, Si

[Bonjoy]

Done a lot of the good bits up here a few years back - on the way to and from some better bits of grit past the hunting lodge/tower thing in the grounds of Chatsworth. Obviously access is pretty dodgy, but there is quite a bit of nice natural grit tucked away in the grounds of Chatsworth if you are prepared to do a bit of covert rummaging around (boulders and routes). I remember a particularly good 7a+ overhanging wall - if anybody wants the directions on how to find it and other nice bits of rock with iffy access, ask me next time you're down The Works and i'll give you the beta.
There was also Big Als mega 7b on a nice block a ways further right from Gun buttress which I broke the starting hold on shortly after making the second ascent thus ruining it (for the 7b climber at least!) I still feel bad about this as it was an awesome problem. 

Have wandered around bits of rock in the woods here whilst looking for fungi, notably a small edge near a waterfall which has been created over the top of a grit block. Didn´t see much potential , but may not found the good bits. Will have to grill you when i´m back.

[Jacqusie]

Looking out from the pinnacle, there’s a small quarried bay down and left.  Here lies an obvious tall arête bounding a gully/chimney, again well worth a star and V2ish.  It’s obviously been done before as some serious digging had occurred to facilitate topping out.

There is also a fingery traverse line across the buttress, about V4 and a strong natural line.  We started sitting on the arête and went rightwards.  This may well have been done before as well.  Anyone know anything of these?

Had a look again today - effort on the main central line!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/2219556024/

We looked at it & decided it was well wad years ago.


Did you get anything ticked in the 3rd bay btw?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/2219560078/


Looked clean - but gash top out!

Cheers

Si

[Jacqusie]

There was also Big Als mega 7b on a nice block a ways further right from Gun buttress which I broke the starting hold on shortly after making the second ascent thus ruining it (for the 7b climber at least!) I still feel bad about this as it was an awesome problem. 

Anyone been back there recently? Checked & its on Crow land.

cheers
Si

[Idol eyes]

The Word is Jonny climbed "Despot" before Ben,,, I think this is credible, as he did say "He give the fucker 7A, Its Fucking 6B!!!", (Ground teeth grinding together, lisp sprayed saliva flowing from the lips, claws gripping a pint glass, and eyes glinting with daggers), but he was not bitter about it!!!

[Jacqusie]

The Word is Jonny climbed "Despot" before Ben,,, I think this is credible, as he did say "He give the fucker 7A, Its Fucking 6B!!!",

Despot was climbed first by Tim Leach in 1977 - if you mean the direct start was first done by Dawes - it figures!!

 


Si

[Idol eyes]

Er, yes!

[Somebody's Fool]

Tempted by a project of Jacqusie's, Johnny Brown and I went to Beeley Hilltop yesterday.

The project took the centre of a fine wall, and after JB fell off it twice, I stepped in for the flash, and glory.  It turned out to be a nice V1 (5c).

I also did a good lip traverse.  It takes the overhanging lip to the left of the climber in this photo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/1990793812/

Without using the block behind his feet, it felt about 7b.  Assuming it's not been done before, I propose the name Hot Tub.  Care should be taken as the apex of the prow is prone to flexing when weighted.  Might be worth one of Bonjoy's (!)s.

JB did a hard one move wonder on the smooth wall in the bay containing the route Catameras Crack.  It was 'proper' English 6c.

I'm umming and ahing about whether I would recommend a visit.  To quote a member of the party:  "Maybe the guidebook should say: The jaded gritstoner may be able to occupy themselves for an hour on a summer evening.  Or perhaps not.'"

[Johnny Brown]

That should say slipped. I might point out you had rock boots on.

I wouldn't recommend a visit. The whole crag offers two moves harder than 5c and both are highly contrived. The fool nearly died trying to top out n'all.