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UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August (Read 14928 times)

tomtom

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UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 08:28:32 am
Nothing.

Absolutely nothing. Had a heavy cold all week that has now shifted to my sinuses - lots of snot banging headaches - no climbing for me.

nai

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#1 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 09:26:15 am
unfortunate tt

without going into too much boring detail, been ticking over until I go on holiday - Foundry with kids, couple of short board sessions and an evening of easy bolt clipping.  I'll start posting again in September.

Power Club rocks this week.

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#2 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 10:22:08 am
67kg

STG: finger/wrist back to 100%
MTG: Any Hole is a Goal, Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)
LTG: 7c+

M:
T: Repeaters - 4 finger half crimp, 3 finger open, pinch blocks x6  sets
W:
T: Repeaters - 4 finger half crimp, 3 finger open, pinch blocks x6  sets
F:
S: Repeaters - 4 finger half crimp, 3 finger open, pinch blocks x6  sets and far to much conditioning
S: running

Wood FT

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#3 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 10:52:15 am
 Get well soon Tom

STG: Leather Whip Mick
MTG: Cider Soak 8a / Patpence 8a+
LTG: 8b

Mon - Ansteys + LQP, belayed a mate and then had a few goes on Once a Dogger in the wind and rain without success, not very Majorca, scared by seal again.
Tue -
Wed - Torbryan, off the top of Threadbare LH 7b+ twice, worked new and higher percentage beta for last crux, left for another time. Afternoon at Ansteys, 2 goes on Cider Soak. I still can't manage the move past bolt 1 and it's doing my head in. Dogged to the top and whilst thrutching through the top heel toe moves managed to orientate the penultimate QuickDraw in such a way that it unclipped itself from the tape, I think it actually came off while weighting the chains but very unnerving to see the rope unclipped (you'd be lucky not to hit the deck if you fell from the slappy last moves). I'll be using two draws or a screwgate next time
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Portland, warmed up at Battleship back cliff, quick attempt at Zinc Oxide Mountain 7b+ failing when I couldn't match the crimp rail below the crux crack (worked out you don't need to). Moved on to Wallsend South to meet friends, very impressive crag, os attempt at Halfway To Heaven 7b ended far from halfway at bolt one greasing off flat holds, armpit rope burn for my troubles, enjoyable redpoint after a dogging to the top. Finished on some nails 6b+ Jewel of the Isle.
Sun - Lulworth, Stair Hole DWS. Flashed Laws Traverse 6b+ and repeated Animal Magnetism 7a+. Had a good go on Gates of Greyskull 7b+ getting to the top roll over move, 2nd go ripped a large flapper, taped up and had a 3rd go but was far to tentative and then hit the sea bed so it was good to have not gone any higher

Feeling very battered from a very fun weekend. Need to have a more pragmatic approach to the first moves of Cider Soak.

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#4 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 11:36:21 am
hope you feel better soon TT

STG: board projects, stronger fingers
MTG: stronger fingers
LTG: stronger fingers

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board. It has recently been reset and it's much better. The strongest and best board session I've had in a long time (maybe the board is now soft). Barely slept the night before from work stress, maybe that's the key to climbing well. Loads and loads of new projects.
W:
T: Cliff. May have found a potential FA. Also climbed Bruno's Roof (AKA Stu's Roof into DWR LH) and fell off the last move of Stu's LH into DWR LH on the only burn I had on it. 
F:
S: Anstons. 3 hour hit. Think there were a few UKBers around :wave: Sussed some non-long beta for Ebola and managed all the moves, no time for RPs.
S: MTB around Dalby forest.

Good week, psyche is high.

tommytwotone

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#5 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 11:48:49 am
Goal - Font7anything


M - in Krakow with work, managed to do my 100 reps though
T - 100 reps in hotel then big night out...brewery, beers, then shots, then stagger back to room
W - broken all day, still did my 100 reps on return to hotel though
T - flight back, 100 reps before bed
F - no gym on lunch, 100 reps at home instead
S - pottering day at home inc. 100 reps
S - VW Festival at Harewood House, walked miles in sunshine, great day. Then bloody forgot to do my 100 reps before bed!


Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!


Oh well.


36chambers

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#6 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:01:08 pm
Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!

Oh well.

Just do 200 today and carry on as usual? Committing during the tired and lazy days is the important part :strongbench:

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#7 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:01:35 pm
STG - end of August

- stick to board sessions for whole month
- 7B - failed to do one in 5 days in Wales, im a punter
- Do 2 board projects. 0/2

MTG - end of Year

- something off the lifetime list

Monday

Drove to Wales, got the new guide.

- Failed on Minimum 7A, wasted a lot of skin on this
- Did most of the moves on Bus Stop 7B+, flailed on the topout

Tuesday

Meant to be a rest day, ended up at Caseg Fraith and then Lily Savage boulders

- Oh Yeah 6C flash
- Paul o Grady 6C+ second go
- Tried but failed on Paul o Grady sds 7B

Wednesday

Warmed up at Cromlech boulders, did the topout of Bus Stop.

- had a few attempts on Bus Stop, fell off top out
- Rested for a couple of hours while Footwork did Lizard King, then had a perfect go on Bus Stop, somehow fell off when pretty much stood up on the slab. Screamed a lot, cemented my punter status by doing it again. NNFN

Thursday

Crafnant

- Every body part was screaming, so only managed Rileys Arete 6B+ and failed on a couple of other things

Friday

Parisella's

- did the 6C finish to Left Wall
- Worked on the full left wall traverse, felt hard
- Breifly pulled on to Rock Attrocity

Drove back home

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

nothing

Ultimately a pretty depressing week. I know I'm capable of climbing 7B, but only getting on rock once every few months really shows.

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#8 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:40:24 pm
STG: Keep climbing
MTG: 7C

Trip to the Lakes for a week:

S: Craig y Longridge. Spent a lot of time and skin doing Fertile Delta 7A+. Almost did Big Marine 7B, fell off top jug 5 times :( Short play on Picnic Sarcastic Sit 7B at Bowderstone in evening
S: Sour Milk Ghyll Boulders. Tried and failed on a 7A+ which was very dirty. Failed miserably at finding Mark's boulder or Lambrini Girl. Where are they?!? Heavy rain forced me to have a short Bowderstone session
M: St. Bees. Failed miserably on The Arete 6C+ in between rain. Ended the day by doing Undercooke 7A which is class
T: Rest day. Spa and cinema
W: Virtual Crag. Did 2 7As, a 7A+ and a 7B! All fairly soft I'm sure... Went to Rake Rigg and got shut down on the 7A there... Shoulthwaite Farm on way back North, did Little People 6C+. An amazing grit/sandstone feature, worth a look.
T: Lad Stones, what a place. Did Hades Lair 7A and then spent a fair while trying Underground Butler 7B to no avail... Then spent a fair while trying Bella's Roof 7A+ to no avail... My mate crushed though.
F: Rest day. Hill walk and cinema
S: Kentmere. Did the Hole SS 7A+ quickly. Midges and rain forced us to a tearoom. Went to Bowderstone and did Picnic Sarcastic sit 7B which was a nice surprise! Failed again at finding Mark's and Lambrini Girl boulders in Sour Milk Ghyll.
S: Gouther Crag. One of the worst and midgiest brackeny walk-ins ever. Horrid. Failed on Khukuri 7B but did Renegade NED 7A which was quite nice. Ran away to Longridge where I spent a couple of hours failing to do as well on Big Marine as I did before.

Good week in the Lakes, nice new venues and glorious weather! Poor quality video to follow...

tommytwotone

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#9 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:59:03 pm
Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!

Oh well.

Just do 200 today and carry on as usual? Committing during the tired and lazy days is the important part :strongbench:


That was my other half's suggestion...but I think not. The challenge was 100 reps (or more) a day, not an average of 100 reps. I could do that but I think it would be the equivalent of taking the tick having dabbed part way up.


I'd originally started this trying to do a month, which I achieved (and only then decided to extend it) so I'm happy.


Seems to have had a positive impact on my physique (which was going south) and more importantly my mood. I'm not going to sweat blowing the streak but just keep to doing it every day - in a way getting into good habits was kind of the point.






« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 01:22:50 pm by tommytwotone »

cheque

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#10 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:03:05 pm
A rest day will probably do you good 3T.

What are you doing 100 reps of anyway?

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#11 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:06:16 pm
A rest day will probably do you good 3T.

What are you doing 100 reps of anyway?

bicep curls.                                                                            ;)

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#12 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:06:49 pm
Just start the count again TTT.  Day 1 today  :thumbsup:

Hope you feel better TT

tomtom

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#13 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:09:26 pm
Just start the count again TTT.  Day 1 today  :thumbsup:

Hope you feel better TT

This. And thanks FD. CSL - I always get spanked when i go to a new rock type/area having not been on it for a while.. takes a few days to get 'calibrated'. Sounds like a pretty good week though!!

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#14 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:21:54 pm
A rest day will probably do you good 3T.

What are you doing 100 reps of anyway?


As a general rule, bodyweight stuff I could do in-house without any equipment - normally burpees, pushups, squats, leg raises, sit-ups, lunges and so on. On the days I've been at the gym on lunch I've tended to a) make it 200 and b) make the best of having equipment so make it tough (including bicep curls).


I found quickly that the absolute easiest (and therefore my hungover day copout) was just 100 bodyweight squats but normally I'd do 50 pushups / 50 leg raises or similar. One say I just did 200 pushups (not all in one go I hasten to add) having just eaten a Sunday roast, which was hard work.

It's been an interesting experiment in terms of finding that the excuses I used to make for myself as a 39-year old with 2 young kids aren't actually true (tired, no time, too full of dinner, I've already had a beer so no point now...) and I could actually get it done.


Day 1 again today then!

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#15 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:14:14 pm
May have found a potential FA

No, a dark horse tm has done it before, just never wrote it up.

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#16 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:21:52 pm
Csl, sounds sounds like the two harder problems you tried were bus stop and POGSS? If you're aiming for 7B these sound like tough asks, BS is 7B+ and I thought POGSS was easily worth 7B+ too. If you're dropping the top of Bus Stop you can def do 7B.

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#17 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:35:17 pm
May have found a potential FA

No, a dark horse tm has done it before, just never wrote it up.

I'm hoping that it's obscure, rubbish, eliminate, and hard enough that no one else has ever considered putting a mat (or beer towel) under it. But you are most likely correct :).

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#18 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:40:19 pm
Sorry, Swanny did that years ago after a few pints.

csl

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#19 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:53:15 pm
Csl, sounds sounds like the two harder problems you tried were bus stop and POGSS? If you're aiming for 7B these sound like tough asks, BS is 7B+ and I thought POGSS was easily worth 7B+ too. If you're dropping the top of Bus Stop you can def do 7B.

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Yep, they were the harder ones I tried, thanks for a the reassurance. To be honest I shouldn't be complaining, it was good to get as close as I did. Just frustrated as I was literally stood up on the slab of Bus Stop, if I hadn't panicked before getting my left foot up i'd have done it!

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#20 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 03:44:18 pm
Power Club

Mon - clean and press 5 x 5 46 kg. One armers! Dumbbel complex 1/1 x 4. Brilliant session, so happy about the one armers, it took me nearly two years to heal my elbows, but now they are just fine. Shoulders are much stronger. Not as sparky as before, but definitely stronger in the bottom part of the pull: now I start completely frontal and hang at full stretch for 1 or 2 seconds before pulling. Very clean up to 3/4, then it all feels a bit sketchy. Chin at the bar but not over it. Very happy though, did it with 2 added kg, and also simulating the reach up with the other arm. Did six or seven singles for each arm. Oh yeah, at 45 yers old and 2,5 kg heavier I am happy.
Tue - was feeling very empty, then two friends came along and a nice session came out. Deadlifts from knees, 5 x 5 128 kg. Good! Paused pull ups. Boxing Tabata. Boiling.
Wed - boxing bag. Boiling.
Thu - Javorek complex (with a twist) x 4 36 kg, brutal. Boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - pull ups 1,5 cm 5 + 20 kg; 5 + 10 kg, all x 5. Brilliant. Dumbbell complex.
Sun - rest.

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#21 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 03:50:52 pm
Wed - ......... afternoon at Ansteys, 2 goes on Cider Soak. I still can't manage the move past bolt 1 and it's doing my head in. Dogged to the top and whilst thrutching through the top heel toe moves managed to orientate the penultimate QuickDraw in such a way that it unclipped itself from the tape, I think it actually came off while weighting the chains but very unnerving to see the rope unclipped (you'd be lucky not to hit the deck if you fell from the slappy last moves). I'll be using two draws or a screwgate next time

I don't know if its any use (perhaps only for the feet - the main trick is some sort of weird body position/knack to avoid the barn door) but the beta I wrote down said:

[starting from both hands on the obvious crimp new the bolt] ..... Pull left foot up onto small blackened edge under the torso then reach up to the sidepull – best got high. Left foot up to left edge of blackened rim edge, right foot swaps to a toe and comes to the left end of the big foothold, keep tight, reach up into gaston. Left foot up one into big hold, twist in and engage core, quick shake on the way through, get good flattie

I think in the autumn I wasn't moving the left foot up when I had the gaston but was going straight through. I had a screw gate on the first bolt as well - initially because I had a lighter belayer and clocked the ledge when barndoor-ing off, but also I think I found it slightly easier to work the moves from a little higher up.

As for the unclip at the top - that would be bad news!!! How did you have the draw rigged, can you remember?

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#22 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 04:57:50 pm
Back at the training this week after a bit of a trad break and family hols.

Tue- board session 30 & 50 degrees (so Tom of recent choss videos, showed me this '7a problem' which I couldn't do the first move of. Ego still sore.

Thurs- Sneaky board sesh light.

Fri- Sneaked out a.m with Nick to Stanage end where he fell of the last move of lowrider and I sweated upwards on chip shop brawl. Nick filmed it for me for posterity or something like that

Edit: Nick sent lowrider Sunday- effort mate!

Sat- climbed great central route on hen cloud. Ha! Hard Severe Offwidth

Experimented a bit with old Russian lens combo here, quite liked it. What do you guys reckon?


Watch this video on Vimeo: . Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios



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#23 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 06:26:44 pm
Get well soon TT
Get back on it TTT
Get in Nibs with the one arms! - time for new motivation videos? I had your fingerboard "grab the f***ing hold" training plan saved but Vimeo updated and wiped everything. More!
Coops - no holiday vid? Good work Sarcastic sir. That's my bucket list.
Dan - cool vid that!

Goals - get back on 7B lime. Stop being so fat. Shoulder prehab.

68kgs  :thumbsdown: :chair: :wall: stop putting so much food in yer gob, Murph.

M-
T-works all bar two yellows in 1hr10. Trying to up the stamina.
W-max hangs. Another fantastic session getting fairly comfortable at +40kgs on 19mm for reps of 10s. Managed 24kg for 10s on 14mm and then just 5s with 32kgs. But it's coming back. 15min rehab run.
T-works all bar one yellows 1hr10 again. Some pinkles.
F-kettlebells
S-20m rehab run. Kettlebells. Rubicon session working three tier test piece. Stamina lacking but it'll come.
S-25m rehab run.

Wood FT

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#24 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 07:24:57 pm
Wed - ......... afternoon at Ansteys, 2 goes on Cider Soak. I still can't manage the move past bolt 1 and it's doing my head in. Dogged to the top and whilst thrutching through the top heel toe moves managed to orientate the penultimate QuickDraw in such a way that it unclipped itself from the tape, I think it actually came off while weighting the chains but very unnerving to see the rope unclipped (you'd be lucky not to hit the deck if you fell from the slappy last moves). I'll be using two draws or a screwgate next time

I don't know if its any use (perhaps only for the feet - the main trick is some sort of weird body position/knack to avoid the barn door) but the beta I wrote down said:

[starting from both hands on the obvious crimp new the bolt] ..... Pull left foot up onto small blackened edge under the torso then reach up to the sidepull – best got high. Left foot up to left edge of blackened rim edge, right foot swaps to a toe and comes to the left end of the big foothold, keep tight, reach up into gaston. Left foot up one into big hold, twist in and engage core, quick shake on the way through, get good flattie

I think in the autumn I wasn't moving the left foot up when I had the gaston but was going straight through. I had a screw gate on the first bolt as well - initially because I had a lighter belayer and clocked the ledge when barndoor-ing off, but also I think I found it slightly easier to work the moves from a little higher up.

As for the unclip at the top - that would be bad news!!! How did you have the draw rigged, can you remember?

Cheers for beta, will give it a go. I briefly tried an Egyptian with a high left foot as described by someone on Poppy but they are super streng.

Re: last quickdraw - it was just a normal clip through a glue in, I think the bolt end crab must have been rotated already then by dragging my right leg I must have manipulated the tape over itself. Spooky.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 07:30:37 pm by Wood FT »

 

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