[Wood FT]

STG - 8a
MTG - 8a+
LTG - 8b

M -
T -
W - crap weather, Indoor at the barn, 2.5 hours bouldering around 6a - 6c and 4 routes up to 7a
T -
F -
S - Berry Head weekend, spent a few hours putting the cauldron pirate rope in then climbed The Wave 6c and repeated Cod Tympani 7a+, perfect dws
S - Berry Head, Magical Mystery Tour with a shed load of people which made it a rather pumpier outing having to hang around, a very long adventure. Watched Pat Littlejohn being filmed climbing Moonraker for the 40th Anniversary. Wanted to try The Barrel Traverse but fell in trying to repeat the Rainbow Bridge crux, not once but then again pulling into the corner after the crux Absolutely knackered, could barely climb out.

Fun weekend seeing northern mates again. I hope this is all giving me a good base level of fitness, for doggy paddle at least. Back on sport this week.

[psborland]

Get well soon Duncan.

Not much last week as I spent most of my week off decorating my Kitchen and not climbing as planned.
M. Decorating
T. evening Cheedale cornice I was crap.
W. Decorating.
Th. planned partner cancelled so finished decorating.
F. Got cancelled on again ended up feeling disappointed in the garage.
Sa-Su. Visiting girlfriends family her Nephews begged me to take them bouldering so managed to salvage a little of the week at Leeds Depot which was quite a nice little centre and showed two 8 year olds that there is another sport other than football .

overall a very disappointing week.

[tomtom]

Bad, Good and Ugly summarises my week...

M: Rubicon. Working ABS direct etc.. more failure.. Shared the time there with a visting dutch climber Dennis (hello!) who managed it third go.. but we worked through some different foot placement beta (higher left foot) though I was too gassed to try it properly. He was playing around on the press and I increased my being able to hold on in the starting position time from a fraction of a second to three seconds - occasionally with a slap upwards.. progress...

T:

We: Got it done second go with higher LF beta. Felt easy (typical!). Interestingly, I was not strong enough over the last few weeks to pull on starting with the higher LF - so my compression strength has obviously increased through working the problem. I couldnt even pull on the Press... :D



Th: Baby had temperature...
Fr: Train to london with sicklyish child for Sister in Laws wedding
Sa: Wedding - baby soldiered on but not 100%
Su: A&E with baby at lunchtime - admitted to ward for a few hours with a chest infection - thankfully no need for IV AB's so was discharged saving overnighter in a hospital a long way from home... Hospital and paediatrics were superb...decided to stay night at brother in laws... missing our seats on the train back home...

Got back yesterday - not much sleep in the last few days and we all have stinking colds now...

[shark]

Late entry. Been off grid in Northumberland

11.4-5 (I think)

M.

T. PM. Drove back home from Manchester. Raining all way across but forecast look to clear in evening and outlook grim so decided to chance it. Crag x dry but not as grippy as Sunday .Tired and fell asleep on mat. Tried hard on JR and paced myself but didn't do as well as Sunday.

W.

T. Weather changeable. Dithered about whether to leave it till friday. Headed out with boys late afternoon in an antsy state (too much coffee and admin). Breezy. Crag dry. Similar connies to sunday. Stayed till late. Held pinch 5 times (PB?) and pushed through to go for slot on 3 of them. That pinch is really quite crap - I use front and higher of the thumb catches. Be good to get three fingers on but never seem to manage it. Ben made good progress opting for a modern faceplanty, cheaty high heel method which misses out the pinch and he looked in danger of doing it. First crag outing for Tes, new border collie pup. Team old skool there again - still on Sean's.

F.

S.

S. Kyloe with the boys. Not been for 20 years. Did the desperate Red Rum 6B and the brilliant Jocks and Geordies 6C+. Both repeats. Got quite drizzly but crag stayed dry. 

Currently in Northumberland till Saturday then a few days in the Lakes. Time to get serious with the training when I get back in the run up to autumn Malham season. Feel like I am bouldering well and fingers are relatively strong so would be good to knock off JR when I get back

[Sasquatch]

Duncan - Get well soon!

Been a long while (early June) since I've posted in Power club.  Seemed like a good time to get back to it. 

June - 10 day bouldering trip into the Alaska range - pretty cool  (needs a new post for it).  Got home to find out the wife had bought a new house while I was gone    Spent next two weeks getting financing in order and finishing up huge 18 month work project. 

July - first two weeks had brother in law and family living with us before they moved, while trying to get old house ready to sell. Listed old house. Moved into new house. Attended mates wedding. climbed one evening outside At end of month found out I was heavy and weak after doing fuckall for a month except drink, eat, and move. Decided to start training

August -  Start training

M - Mtn bike 3hrs
T - Fb, Max Hangs 18mm, 255#, Lift - DL, Bench, OH Press, Bicep Curls
W - Mtn Bike 1hr
T -
F - Bike/Hike combo - 4 hrs Drive to another wedding 
S - Wedding 
S - Mtn Bike - 45 min

Not the best start to training I've ever had, but the wedding was a bit of a speedbump.  This week is going much better.

[SA Chris]

At end of month found out I was heavy and weak after doing fuckall for a month except drink, eat, and move. Decided to start training

Have you submitted these scientific findings for publication?

Glad you are back on the send wagon!

[Sasquatch]

At end of month found out I was heavy and weak after doing fuckall for a month except drink, eat, and move. Decided to start training

Have you submitted these scientific findings for publication?

Indeed.  I recorded the exact number of drinks (a total of 105 pints in 30 days or roughly 3.5/day), amount of excess calories (approximately 700kcal excess per day), and exercise levels (a fuckalls worth of minutes per day).   This resulted in approximately 5% weight gain(9lbs), 38% net loss of strength, and a 100% increase in general shitness.  All with perfectly defensible data.

So the next test is to isolate the alcohol vs excess calories vs exercise levels to determine how much each factor plays a role in the overall descent into shitness and punterdom.