[AJM]

Cheers for beta, will give it a go. I briefly tried an Egyptian with a high left foot as described by someone on Poppy but they are super streng.

Re: last quickdraw - it was just a normal clip through a glue in, I think the bolt end crab must have been rotated already then by dragging my right leg I must have manipulated the tape over itself. Spooky.

Spooky indeed!

Yeah high left foot I saw a few people do. I could never get enough "in" from it - nice oppositional on the sidepull but nothing to keep me close to the wall.

[TobyD]

M road run between 6-7km, slow and pretty tired from work
T wave session, fun amde progress on the RH black and yellow, managed a move i hadn't done before, and 1 or 2 level twos not previously done
W 4 x 10min easy aerocap on routes up to 6b, 5 minute rests 
T Moat buttress tried moaterhead, 3 rp attempts falling off last move of top crux every time
F bike ride c.60km
S walked to dripping cornice, went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c, and tried a couple of other things (all routes); then foundry for a few wave problems and shoulder stability experimentation on bar
S moat buttress rp'd moaterhead first go of the day, first decent new tick in over a year, looks like time to knuckle down properly. tried king arthritis afterwards but it got a bit warm and humid for me, more relevantly felt pretty tired

[measles23]

Sacked off for a few weeks due to unstable middle finger mcp joint thats got progressively worse over the year..

Usual weekly wall sessions pottering up to V6/7

Usual weekly gym sessions - this week managed to lift a lump of metal weighing 230 kg

[Wood FT]

M road run between 6-7km, slow and pretty tired from work
T wave session, fun amde progress on the RH black and yellow, managed a move i hadn't done before, and 1 or 2 level twos not previously done
W 4 x 10min easy aerocap on routes up to 6b, 5 minute rests 
T Moat buttress tried moaterhead, 3 rp attempts falling off last move of top crux every time
F bike ride c.60km
S walked to dripping cornice, went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c, and tried a couple of other things (all routes); then foundry for a few wave problems and shoulder stability experimentation on bar
S moat buttress rp'd moaterhead first go of the day, first decent new tick in over a year, looks like time to knuckle down properly. tried king arthritis afterwards but it got a bit warm and humid for me, more relevantly felt pretty tired

Well done Toby!

[tomtom]

Usual weekly gym sessions - this week managed to lift a lump of metal weighing 230 kg

[emoji41][emoji1320]

[Nibile]

Get in Nibs with the one arms! - time for new motivation videos?

Cheers Murph! This is a little clip of the last set, still powerful in the bottom part but couldn't lock out deep. Trying to stay as frontal as possible. I'll try to upload the fingerboarding program again.

[Muenchener]

S went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c

I was one of the team getting in your way on the 7a on Rubicon. Pleased to meet you, sort of. 

[Sasquatch]

Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!

Oh well.

Just do 200 today and carry on as usual? Committing during the tired and lazy days is the important part

That was my other half's suggestion...but I think not. The challenge was 100 reps (or more) a day, not an average of 100 reps. I could do that but I think it would be the equivalent of taking the tick having dabbed part way up.


I'd originally started this trying to do a month, which I achieved (and only then decided to extend it) so I'm happy.


Seems to have had a positive impact on my physique (which was going south) and more importantly my mood. I'm not going to sweat blowing the streak but just keep to doing it every day - in a way getting into good habits was kind of the point.

So start over and try again  

[Sasquatch]

Pretty good week - back into training mode

M- FB Wide grip max hangs, routes at wall-os 9 routes up to 7b+. 
T- rest
W- Outside - short session, but managed to climb 6 new problems, and do a new 7C FA. Also found 6 new project lines.  (I cleaned most of those yesterday in the rain)
T-rest
F-FB Wide grip max hangs (finally felt strong on the hangs:) ) , Routes os 11 routes up to 7b
S- Bike/Core
S-Bike/Core

School starts next week so I should get into a better weekly rhythm for both training and climbing.   

[TobyD]

M road run between 6-7km, slow and pretty tired from work
T wave session, fun amde progress on the RH black and yellow, managed a move i hadn't done before, and 1 or 2 level twos not previously done
W 4 x 10min easy aerocap on routes up to 6b, 5 minute rests 
T Moat buttress tried moaterhead, 3 rp attempts falling off last move of top crux every time
F bike ride c.60km
S walked to dripping cornice, went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c, and tried a couple of other things (all routes); then foundry for a few wave problems and shoulder stability experimentation on bar
S moat buttress rp'd moaterhead first go of the day, first decent new tick in over a year, looks like time to knuckle down properly. tried king arthritis afterwards but it got a bit warm and humid for me, more relevantly felt pretty tired

Well done Toby!

cheers Guy! I'm starting to believe I'm capable of getting back to 8 something by the end of the year.  2 months ago ish I failed to TR the warm up 6c at Moat, left and went to the Foundry (though it was nice to be at the crag anyway, and watch others) I've now realised that its probably been a decade since I haven't climbed at least 8a every year, but I don't have any more leave left ... I need a soft 8a I haven't done which doesn't seep... suggestions please!
BTW a fine effort on TCS, (not soft!) I'd be really psyched to get on this again with you, and we can fall off our respective bugbear moves repeatedly... I think i my have ha a similar draw unclipping issue on this once as well.

[Bradders]

First time posting in the power club, good to see the psych going round so thought I'd get involved. Plus I'm a believer in the idea of publicising your goals to help make you more accountable to them. Anywho, going to start off aggregating the last three weeks, sorry for the long post!

STG - finish off Ebola at Anston and stick to training plan
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise, Tourniquet at Kentmere and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here

WC 24th July - starting training again after a short trip to Ireland, having not done anything for a long while except climb outside.
M - yoga in the morning, Leeds Depot later, lots of volume trying to build a bit of session fitness focusing on problems through roofs
T - knackered from work but quick session of 5/5 repeaters on the 10mm B2K rungs
W - rest
T - yoga in the morning then a bit of a project session at Leeds Depot. Mainly worked a yellow coming through the cave and ticked in two halves
F - gym, volume weights doing chest, squats and deadlift
S - had a BBQ
S - Leeds Wall for a couple of hours doing easy routes

WC 31st July - second week of 'base building'
M - afternoon off, went down to Griff's Buttress in Blackwell Dale. Repeated Ovine a few times and tried Lovine to no avail. Frustrating that the crux for me is an awkward hand match.
T - lunchtime gym, repeated last week's routine
W - hangboard, 5/5 repeaters on 10mm B2K rungs with planks between sets
T - Leeds Depot, ticked the yellow through the cave first go, then did lots more roof volume
F - rest
S - Kentmere, varied day, chucked it down as I arrived but everything dried very quickly. Ticked Runs on Weasel 7B quickly, then tried Tourniquet. Seems to revolve around two hard moves, one of which I didn't do. Rest felt steady.
S - Rest

WC 7th August - full training mode, starting off with base strength (particularly fingers) before moving on to power
M - yoga in the morning & Depot 50' board, okay session
T - hangboard, repeaters to warm up, then 3 sets of 5/5 repeaters using front three open removing 9kg weight. Then weighted hangs 5x 1r 10 sec hang adding 14kg. All on 10mm B2K rungs
W - rest
T - repeated Tuesday's hangboard session in the morning, felt good. In the afternoon went to Earl and ticked round a circuit of things I'd not done before.
F - weighted pull ups, leg lifts and front levers at home
S - quick session on Ian's Roof at Woodhousr Woodhouse Scar, as it's 5 mins from my house and away with family later. Tired from precious sessions but sorted my beta.
S - long walk

[hstmoore]

I need a soft 8a I haven't done which doesn't seep... suggestions please!

How about Big Apple at Garage Buttress? Apparently on the soft end of 8a, although that depends if it still has any holds.

[fried]

2 week check in.

Week 1 - 6 days in Targassonne. Very hard on the skin bouldering on crimpy granite in the sun. Managed my first outdoor 6B on the second day (soft), and couldn't feel my fingers for a couple of days. Chilled in the sun, drunk wine and spent far too long trying and failing on a 6A slab in the campsite. I love Targassonne, not so convinced by granite bouldering though.

Week 2 - 3 days in Font on the way home.

Fri - Damp first ever visit to Rocher Greau...wow. Didn't climb. Went to Buthiers in the afternoon to try Ultrason which was still damp, ticked off a few reds instead and a very bad off-circuit 6A (very soft or wrong line)

Sat - Elephant, feeling very good, did a problem I hadn't tried for ages first go. Then got horribly beaten by the top-out of La Moreau https://bleau.info/elephant/7851.htmlas as usual. This has become a serious mental block. Afternoon, took friends on a walk around Mont Simonet, never climbed here either and did a bit of scoping about.

Sun - J.A Martin, Light blues and a try at Le Prefabrique https://bleau.info/martin/6499.html which needed more creative spotting than I could get out of the missus. Did the bottom.

Climbed a fair bit and came back refreshed and feeling good. Bring on the Autumn.

[cheque]

Managed my first outdoor 6B on the second day

Effort Fried. 

 

[SA Chris]

Bit late!

M- Wall session, average
T - nothing
W - Lunchtime run, 8 km, interval in local park. went a wandering. Found a few new problems plus a great arete, did moves but not linked.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - walk with kids
S - walk with kids did 6 km run in evening with core session on monkey bars at park

[fried]

Managed my first outdoor 6B on the second day

Effort Fried. 

I went straight to 6B+

[Nibile]

Get in Nibs with the one arms! - time for new motivation videos?

Cheers Murph! I'll try to upload the fingerboarding program again.

I could't find the old video anymore, so after days and days trying to remember all the details and the intricacies of the best fingerboarding program ever conceived, I was finally able to make another explanatory video. I hope it helps.

[Murph]

I could't find the old video anymore, so after days and days trying to remember all the details and the intricacies of the best fingerboarding program ever conceived, I was finally able to make another explanatory video. I hope it helps.

Thanks Nibs! Incredible. I'm not worthy. Waddage duly awarded. Above and beyond that one. The lost Vimeo one, you never actually pulled on!

Now I've got to carry the torch and actually get in shape to do one myself. I'm remembering it's all about the shoulders.

[Nibile]

 
Murph you're really a crazy mofo, pure UKB at its best!
 

[shark]

Late entry. Away with family.

M.

T. Bowden Doors with the boys. Warm. Did Transformer Direct 7A. Then had a go with on Dog Eat Dog 7A round the corner which Ive struggled to get far on in the distant past. In warm weather seemed unlikely but managed to unlock a sequence that had me groping for holds at the top. Went round the top and brushed the finishing holds. Tommy then managed to do it. I then had two goes where I slipped off the sandy slopers holds at the top. Tips nearly worn through.

W.

T. Back to Kyloe. Warm again. Worked on Monty Pythons and me and Ben got the stand. Then tried the 7A+ sit and worked out a good sequence and had two goes getting through the start and slapping for the sloper. Tips trashed again.

F.

S.

S. Carrock Fell with the boys and Karl Telfer. Warm and humid. Midges were out. Did McHaffies stand and had a few goes at the 7A+/B sit. Moved to Boardmans Right Hand 6C (scary) and managed it. Back for a few more goes on McHaffies.

Weather was a bit iffy so did well to get out and do what we did though not exactly good conditions for crushing. Definitely had to try hard. Great to get away.




   

[Coops_13]

Coops - no holiday vid? Good work Sarcastic sir. That's my bucket list.

See the Non-quality vid page for a very non-quality vid

[lagerstarfish]

Then got horribly beaten by the top-out of La Moreau https://bleau.info/elephant/7851.htmlas as usual. This has become a serious mental block.

Viddy well, little brother

[fried]

It looks so easy from the ground. Even the missus said she could do it. it probably is that easy. I even downclimbed it which is probably harder. I'll try with that music on headphones.

[lagerstarfish]

it does start to feel like you're quite a long way up

[fried]

I really need some serious barracking