[nai]

Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

I've always liked it. I've probably done it a dozen or so times over the last 25 years and have felt bloody brilliant each time.

Just realised what this is (ok, I looked it up), it is an awesome problem, the moves to get the arete from the crack are phenomenal. The topout's not easy from what I recall either so be prepared for interest after the main event.

[jwi]

STG:
Hanging 6mm edge for 10s on my adjustable fingerboard.
Getting back to 20+ pullups.
MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging on Naranjo in August. /Todra in September. Wherever we decide to go
LTG: TBD

Mo:  Fingerboard and some pullups
Tue: Gym bouldering finished with A spot of campusing
Wed: rest
Thur: St Géry. Low intensity day. Tried an 8a+/b that had a move on a sloper I couldn't do. Hopefully because of high humidity
Fri: nothing
Sat: Fingerboard and some pullups. 19 concecutive pullups in good form. Had to rest two seconds in the bottom position after 16. Fingerboarding with the edge set to 7mm did five sets of 10s with 13s hang on the fifth. Should be ready to move down to ≈6.5mm next week
Sun: Climbing in Bielsa. Quite mellow. 6c+ o/s (35m) 7b retroflash (40m+), 7c+ (40m) failed to os, stripped, 7b+ I thought I hadn't done before, turned out not to be the case.

Progression:
Weight: 70-71 kg
19 pullups, 7mm edge crimped 4x10" and then 13"
flash of white's in the gym: 0
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5

[fried]

Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

I've always liked it. I've probably done it a dozen or so times over the last 25 years and have felt bloody brilliant each time.

Just realised what this is (ok, I looked it up), it is an awesome problem, the moves to get the arete from the crack are phenomenal. The topout's not easy from what I recall either so be prepared for interest after the main event.

It was a great day of mat and beta sharing. A couple of Dutch? lads did it just before and we had a heart in the mouth moment when he lost his footing on the top out. I hope that if I hit the top hold nervous adrenaline will carry me through.

[shark]

Was hoping to be fully recovered this week

Doctor says: It'll be 4-6 weeks before you don't need bandages and ... yada yada yada
Shark hears: I'll be fine in 4 weeks
Shark thinks: I'll do it in 3!

I am going to try to curb my impatience ‘going forward’

 

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers as much as possible before two week sport trip in June
MTG: get to the bottom of the endless finger injury cycle (current haul is LH ring finger a2 and LH index collateral ligament strain)

Didn't post last week because I did no 'training' in the sense of trying to get better. Just puntered about doing easy stuff in order to keep the circulation going in the fingers. Similar this week:

M: indoors, did easy circuit, some press ups, dips and assisted one-armers
T: shoulder stability with weights
W: same as mon: easy bouldering and then some bar and floor exercises
T. shoulder stability
F: same as mon/wed
S: went outdoors with idea of doing very easy bouldering but forgot my shoes, probably my subconscious doing some good work. Had a nice walk and picnic instead
S. more indoor pottering

Pretty boring week and certainly no progress to report. It's all about trying not to get totally shit while rehabbing the injuries. All the same I've been focusing on technique while doing easy stuff, mostly on keeping good core tension because I'm useless at this, and it's becoming more natural. In essence I'm doing a sort of base phase of loads of easy climbing and non-specific exercise because that's what the fingers allow, unfortunately I've a trip in two weeks and should be trying to peak. I just have to reassess what's achievable for the trip without hindering the rehab too much.

[petejh]

STG: The Oak (by early June) or The Brute (in August)
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within three years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

M. Belaying duty at LPT, waiting for cuts from Sunday to heal.
T. Put the lotion in the basket..
W. Put the lotion in the basket. Core workout and back mobility.
T. Put the lotion in the basket.
F. Cuts seemed to be healed. LPT, dogged melanchollie to put clips in. 1st burn, rinsed the start crux promptly re-opening cut in rh middle finger. End of session after 4 proper moves. Belayed Ollie,  dropped last move of Liquid when foot popped, looking well-strong. Contemplate the futility of life and training while staring out to sea.
S. Went to Malham. Super-glued and taped finger and had a first look at The Oak. Brilliant moves, brilliant route and skin friendly. Managed some good links from the horn to the last gaston on traverse left after helpful beta from Pete C. Didn't notice finger, yes!
S. Belayed a man in a cave with some pigeons. Treated myself to ticking the grade 6s on secteur guache de dulas. Sore tips but glued-up cut still ok.


That's the end of trying Melanchollie, fuck that with weak skin. Frustrating becasue I feel strong on the moves. The Oak is brilliant and I'm well psyched for Malham. Great end to a what could have been a rubbish week.

[Muenchener]

W: same as mon: easy bouldering and then some bar and floor exercises

[Schnell]

W: same as mon: easy bouldering and then some bar and floor exercises

What? You mean this isn't UKBallet

[iain]

TL:DR - Good week overall, I can (mostly) climb without the shoulder being a problem, now need to work on getting the fitness back.

---------
"How's your shoulder?", "Fine" I said 10 minutes before coming down from Hungry Eyes because my shoulder didn't feel right.
Turns out climbing peak lime puts the shoulder in a lot of wierd/stretched postions I didn't get inside so:

STG: More shoulder rehab, start training for Autumn, get outside more
S/MTG: Secret Gudgeon Society when shoulder's up to it, Body Machine, The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach and E4/5 lime trad.
MTG: Hasse Brandler in Sept


M: Wanted to head out but reports of a dripping Cheedale meant I headed to the Works. Aimed for harder problems, left feeling worked but not done in.
T: Rain during the day meant another Works session. Aimed for a volume of problems and had my longest session post injury. Left battered. Judging by other posts I should've made the effort to get outside.
W: Rest
T: Had wanted to head outdoors but partner didn't want to risk tweaked finger on peak lime so Foundry for routes. Warmed up then flashed a 7a (pleasant surprise) and cleaned a 7a+ I'd last done before the injury (bigger surprise) although I moved fairly quickly on both so cheated my lack of fitness. This was shown up on 2 other 7a's and a 6c+ where I got 3/4 of the way up before running out of steam.
F: Had intended to train but lacked motivation. Rest and shoulder rehab.
S: 6+ mile walk over Bamford, Stanage and Burbage.
S: Embankment. First time on peak lime routes this year and it showed. Got flash pumped and sat on the 6b 'warmup' and had a hard time remembering how to use my feet although that improved over the session. Struggled on Hungry Eyes but managed all but one shouldery move on Secret Gudgeon Society. Nice route.
Nai made Stone the Loach look really good.


I've got 16 weeks till HB which is plently of time to get fit enough for it. What is a problem is that looking at the diary I don't have a free weekend for Infinite Gravity till after HB, mid-late sept, which is when the weather crapped out in 2013. Unless I'm lucky with partners/weather it's probably on hold till next year.
I'm still going to train for it though, partly because if the opportunity presents itself I want to be ready, and partly because it's a half way house between peak lime sport and big trad and should get me up what I want to do on both.

[cheque]

STG- Finish film without becoming irretrievably crap at climbing.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- Become a sponsored hero obviously.

M-

T- Swimming: 1 hour breaststroke.

W-

T- Pleasley Vale. Not a fan of the crag but it's ten minutes drive from my work and has a traverse that I don't even need a mat for so it's ideal for training, especially while I'm doing at least an hour of editing every day. Couldn't do the traverse (last time I was here, in July, I did the extended version four times...)  but this was partly due to trying to repeat 6C boulder problem (which I also didn't do) with another guy. All good training.

F- Rest. Quite sore.

S- Supporting mate doing a "30 extremes on Stanage" birthday challenge. At the crag for 7:30AM. This presented an obvious chance to get some fitness and experience of a big day doing lots of short pitches. I've also long suspected that my crapness at trad is partly due to never doing it with people who climb harder than me so never getting the experience of seconding harder routes. Seconded 7 pitches, all at least as hard as I'd lead, with mixed (but encouraging) results- keen to go back and lead everything I seconded. Well, except for Impossible Slab- fuck that. Excellent day.

S- Rest. Really sore.

Started my campaign to get back into shape this week. So much fun but my body's not used to working hard! Thursday and Saturday have confirmed to me that I really lack oomph and fitness but my technique has, if anything, improved. I have enough time to work this problem out though.

[Luke Owens]

The Oak is brilliant and I'm well psyched for Malham. Great end to a what could have been a rubbish week.

Psyche restored, nice one Pete!

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 5/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: St Leonards. No campus. As usual, made my own problems.
T: St Leonards. New stuff up to around V5. Abit of campussing and fingerboarding after.
W: Rest.
T: Twin Creeks. New crag a mate is developing. Not many problems and nothing hard, flashed every established problem and put up 4 more up to around V4ish.
F: Fox Cave. First time here. Low roof with probs up to V12. Did a V5 3rd go to warm up then started working a V8. Fairly long burly "jug" run through the roof into a nasty crimpy top. Did all the moves besides the last 2. Crimp was so sharp, started to slice my finger. Did roof in 2 overlapping halves (?). Horrible crag. Totally uninspiring. Won't come back for a long time.
Caught up with brother (lives in Canada flying back on Sunday) for dinner and beers. Ended up getting hammered and got 2 hrs sleep before working all sat.
S: Hungover as fuck. Work.
S: Finally recovered. The Den. Housemate reckons I could do Fight Club V10 here, so we went along. Too hot, dripping water, hard moves. Didn't tick anything. Not even the V5 warm up.
Fight Club: Did all the moves except the first move. First move, I could barely even pull on. Not anywhere near well enough to consider moving my hand. From the first move in, I did to the end in 2 overlapping sections. Felt maybe V6ish from here.
Left when it got dark, still wanted to climb so went to St Leonards. Quick session before they closed. Ran laps on some of the harder things here then did a core workout with a mate before going for thai.

A mate ticking Fight Club the day before:

[gme]

Mon- works circuit board for an hour. Short session before taking colleagues from Holland out.
Tues- Nowt. Eating and drinking again with the above colleagues.
Wed- School. warm up then start working the 7c+(8a+) purple 60 move circuit. Good fun before my skin started to disintegrate.
Thurs- nowt
Fri- Nowt
Sat- Nowt
Sun- Moonboard Alnwick- up to 6C then failure. Pretty depressing.

Well not quite the start back i had planned this week. On the positive side my finger still hurts but is on the mend, time to MTFU I guess. However a week off before surf trip, 2 weeks surfing and a week off with jetlag/work/exhaustion have taken there toll and I now feel like I have gone back a few months.
The plan was to be starting on the endurance phase of my plan now but with a better power base. So I should really boulder still for a few weeks to get my power up to where it was, however i don't think my finger is up to it yet so am going to concentrate on the circuits. The one at the school doesn't hurt at all (other than skin) and i did all the moves straight off on the brown 7c at the works so these are the focus for the next 4-6 weeks.

Also i am back up to 83kg which doesn't help. Kind of lost the motivation to watch what i eat/drink when i got injured and am now paying for it. So if anyone sees me in the Broady with a pint waiting for my Kebab to be cooked please admonish me.

Now i am in my old age i find that i loose any gains i have made very quickly if i don't climb. I didn't used to have that problem. Regularity is key rather than specifics of what i do.

[tomtom]

Also i am back up to 83kg which doesn't help. Kind of lost the motivation to watch what i eat/drink when i got injured and am now paying for it. So if anyone sees me in the Broady with a pint waiting for my Kebab to be cooked please admonish me.

Now i am in my old age i find that i loose any gains i have made very quickly if i don't climb. I didn't used to have that problem. Regularity is key rather than specifics of what i do.

In the weight department I find not drinking (or drinking very little - occasionally) really helps with keeping the lbs off..

But the travelling for work lifestyle makes it harder to eat well - and to build in any kind of training routine...

I seem to be quicker at getting back into shape (e.g. after a week or two off) in the last couple of years - I wonder if the body gets better at this..?

[T_B]

The plan was to be starting on the endurance phase of my plan now but with a better power base. So I should really boulder still for a few weeks to get my power up to where it was, however i don't think my finger is up to it yet so am going to concentrate on the circuits....

....Now i am in my old age i find that i loose any gains i have made very quickly if i don't climb. I didn't used to have that problem. Regularity is key rather than specifics of what i do.

How about some AnCap circuits on the big board at the School? Carefully constructed so as not to hurt finger, but will also get your some strength/power back.

I know what you've said about F/Boarding not being as good as bouldering for finger strength, but isn't it the obvious thing to try and slot in if "regularity is key"?

Sounds like the pulley is on the mend anyway 

[shurt]

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar (can do all moves as of 2 wks ago) or any 7b for that matter
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

M: on holiday
T:  on holiday - ate and drank too much
W: Managed 2 reduced sets (60’s) felt done in.
T: Rested as was going to go climbing Friday which ultimately fell through
F: Rested as was due to go climbing Saturday
S: Went climbing - YES! Ended up going down to Dartmoor bouldering for the day which was a bit out of the blue and a welcome rest from the limestone sports climbing numbers grind which has set in of late. Weather was amazing and whilst I didn't do Easdon Arete (the casual goal for the day) did a load of other new stuff up to about v5 and soloed anaerobic and aerobic wall at Hound Tor (backed off Limbo Dancer!). It was a feel good day all round.
S: Skin utterly trashed. Got lemon juice in a cut cooking dinner, Ow.
 

[gme]

How about some AnCap circuits on the big board at the School? Carefully constructed so as not to hurt finger, but will also get your some strength/power back.

This is the plan and agree its a great way of getting the strength back.

I know what you've said about F/Boarding not being as good as bouldering for finger strength, but isn't it the obvious thing to try and slot in if "regularity is key"?

And yes i need to do this and intend to start this week, lunch time sessions in the works. I do think FB is good when your recovering from an injury as its really controlled.

[gme]

In the weight department I find not drinking (or drinking very little - occasionally) really helps with keeping the lbs off..


[/quote]

Tell me something i don't know. I am now on a no drinking in the week mode with caveats ( its allowed with one or more of the following- colleagues, clients, wife, friends I have not had a pint with for a week or so, friends i have had a drink with in the last week but dont see them that often, and sporting events.)

So basically i am going to have to stop eating.

[tomtom]

[Dolly]

Power Club is a good read this week.


M Foundry board. Nearly did T_B's circuit that he cruises round.
T
W Foundry Wave with Neil B. just did as many level 2s as I could in 50 mins. Tired
T Kettlebells in my pants in the disabled toilet in the corner of the office
F
S Thorn Crag. Lots of problems. Had a great day and still ache now really.
S No real training but lots of gardening. Back hurt afterwards
 

[mr chaz]

T Kettlebells in my pants in the disabled toilet in the corner of the office

Respect!

[webbo]

Mon. Bike half mile intervals times 5 slight down hill incline.
Tue. Board did project of last few sessions and repeated some things from last year.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board. Hard mirror session. Light dumbbell workout.
Fri. Bike half mile intervals times 5 up the incline.
Sat. Scout hut to warm out of the wind too windy in the wind. Stuff up to 6c+
Sun. Bike 72.65 miles 4 hrs 14 mins windy as fuck.

[Sasquatch]

STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight(FAIL-). Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt...

M-Run 3.25mi
T-FB-Max Hangs - New PB 3 x 10sec x 262lbs on BM2k lower edges.  Boulder outside w friend.  Beautiful afternoon to play on easy slabs. 
W-
T-Outside session to projects - warmed up at the Chickaloon boulders repeated stuff up to 7C to get fully warmed up. 

On to first project- White Whale Project day 1.  Did opening sequence 1st go through to 4th move (there are only really 8 moves plus a little hand shuffle), hung about figuring out 5th and 6th moves.  Did 7th move and worked 8th.  2nd burn figured out 5th and 6th move and linked through 5th move, so all but the last move sorted out.  Last move though is a HUGE dyno.  Gave it a couple efforts, and came up about 12-16 inches short.  Think I can get closer, but doing it after the other 7 big hard crimp moves will be really HARD. Very happy though as the sequence is nails and good.  Good project and really hard which I wanted.

On to 2nd project - Prosthetic Project - day 2.  I had sorted out the opening sequence on day 1 and linked up to the final crux, so I started out trying to figure that out.    I have memories of a friend doing the upper part from 10-12 years ago through a crazy gaston move.  I tried that quite a bit and wrecked that whole side of my body, and got nowhere.  Partner also equally stymied.  2nd time up I reclimbed the lower crux sequence, and tried an insanely sharp crimpy sequence through the top.  This equence boils down to a 2.5ft move to a razor blade, matching it and a 2.5ft move from it. I did the move to it, and the move from matched, but didn't match it.  Certain it will go that way though, so pretty psyched.  I may deglove my tip trying it though. 

Overall really good day on the projects.  Project #2 seems like it may go in another few day of work, Project #1 may go once I spend a month getting better at dynos. 
F-Easy boulder session to work out kinks from yesterday.  Late night 
S-Mtn Bike 1 hr, Late night 
S-started FB session, and sacked it off due to poor form and lack of motivation. 

Overall good week with two fantastic days.  Dropping weight will REALLY HELP for both projects, but that's hard with family in town, birthdays, and graduations.  The Week ended on a low due to too much drinking and lack of sleep.  One more week of family in town, then off to Seattle for a week, and then it'll calm down. 

[nik at work]

STG Gotham extension still...
Mtg 8c
Ltg 9a
Etc..

M bm session +20kg good session
T nowt
W outside. Gotham extension. Warm up go fall (or more like slide) off wet crux holds of the extension. Warm down go don't take up second rope, get through extension crux then rope drag becomes predictably epic, stupid.
T bike ride and ice cream
F bm session, unweighted, decent session
S sneak out for a couple of hours and do a new E6 of the bold solo variety.
S diy

Not a bad week, the weather is frustrating me, hey ho.

[Luke Owens]

STG: Senile Penile Extension (7b+), The Screaming Skull (7b), Strawberry Tubin (7b)
MTG: Flowers are for the Dead (7c), Diamond Project, 7b+ Redpoint in Ceuse (September)
LTG: 8a

M: Rest

T: Orme - Did Contusion and put the clips on on Senile, worked the moves a bit. First redpoint couldn't clip draw on crux and powered out. 2nd redpoint felt greasy and tired. Sorted out all the beta exactly how I need it including the clipping positions so not a wasted session.

W: 15 Mins Aerocap warm up
Feet-on fingerboarding Ancap 5 x 2mins on 2 mins off. Almost completely powered out on last set.
15 mins Aerocap warm down

T: Had planned to go out put weather/tiredness put me off

F: Rest

S: Again planned to go out but ended up doing 13 hours in the garden... strained something in my lower back (something clicked and I was in a heap on the floor) Ibuprofen and Deep Heat in excess.

S: Orme - back felt fine. People on Contusion so sacked off the extension project instantly (I have no patience) Got on The Bearded Clam (7a+) a classic and steep (for me/antistyle) route. Dogged up and worked the moves crux felt fine. 1st RP fell off on lower wall having not worked it out properly pulled back on and too the top in one. 2nd RP did the same thing and then actually worked out some good beta and climbed to the top in one again. Keen to get back on it, it's ace and not what I'm used too (big holds).

Felt tired but went and ticked Half Man Half Beard (7a) at the Cutaway. Felt easy this time and I didn't feel tired on it despite it being the end of the session, weird!

I've now got some "ClimbSkin" cream and it's working wonders on the skin so far, cheers Pete!