[Dolly]

Well done T_B. I know I saw you in person today and said the same but thought I'd post it as well.


M Ravenswick Quarry. Probably quite good if you live locally and like this style of eliminate bouldering. Rock was generally good.
T
W Pilates. Second time with a new instructor - much tougher
T Shed. Hard and good as ever
F 10 quick routes toproped at The Foundry at lunchtime
S Core session at the gym
S Smallest child was ill so had a quick Burbage North hit between 7 and 8. Had the crag to myself to do all the usuals up to Remergence. Fucking great


Back feeling much better - still tweaky and I wouldn't want to risk jumping off from too high but its definitely getting better

[kelvin]

Sun - Reynard's Arch was wet, then Embankment was wet -

Did you happen to look across at Two Tier and see what it was like? (as if I need ask)

Proper wet, sorry. Should have posted on the conditions threads.

[Sasquatch]

Great to see you back training so quickly Shark - strong effort.

Thanks Kelvin. It doesn't feel quick. Physically I could have fingerboarded throughout as my tips weren't bandaged - however I was just drained and couldn't face it. Its been a long 3 weeks.

Also good news that it wasn't an injury, which sets you WAY back.  This is just a forced 3-week break, which will bounce back quick!

[Sasquatch]

STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight. Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt...

M-run 3mi, ARC 30min
T-Boulder, new stuff up to 7C at wall, Then FB Max Hangs 5x 10 sec 18mm Edge at +105lbs(280total).
W-
T-Outside session - Headed out to bolt/clean/prep a new route, and clean an existing, due to total clusterfuck managed to clean existing, and add 1 bolt to anchor of new, and partly clean.  Bailed due to irritation/clusterfuck.  Stopped by boulder area nearby and repeated 7B, 7B, 7C, 7B, 7C+, 8A, and 7C which mostly felt easy(7C+ and 8A still felt hard).  Hadn't repeated the 8A since 2004, when I first did it.
F-Mother in Law arrived for 2 week stay.  Very good thing, as we now have live in sitter and can go play sometimes
S-fb-Max Hangs 14mm, 4 x 10 secs at +83lbs (258 total), then to wall with my wife!!!!!  first time she's climbed in nearly a year(due to achilles injury) so I was a very happy man.  5 sets of 3 routes.  endurance felt good.  OS 8a(their grade)  Was hard, but not at limit. 
S-mtn bike. Trails are dry finally!!!
 

[the_dom]

Bit of a weird week - started a new job and spent the weekend at a wedding in the middle of nowhere, so prioritised training over climbing post-Font.

Mon: AM: Hangboard - max one arms. PM: Hangboard - encores

Tues: 500 kettlebell swings with a 24 kg bell

Wed: 40 min trail run

Thurs: AM: Hangboard - max one arms + mobility + pushups. PM: 500 kettlebell swings with a 24 kg bell.

Fri: AM: Hangboard - Webb Parsons programme + mobility + pushups. PM: Weights - kettlebell swings, dumbbell snatches, shoulder presses and Turkish getups

Sat:Rest. Alcohol

Sun: Evening hangboard - max one arms, repeaters + mobility and pushups

Finger feeling slightly tweaky, so going to hold off on fingerboarding this week (realise I may have overdone it last week, in retrospect).

[nik at work]

STG - Gotham Extension
MTG - 8c (Mini Sukarra, Make It Funky), trad projects and an 8A by the year end.
LTG - 9a
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - Outside at training traverse wall, did standard traverse 3x to warm up then got stuck into some boulder eliminates and the eliminate project traverse with Doug. On the positive side I managed to climb from the start of the project traverse to completing the first crux move (I usually fall off trying it as part 1 of the doing it in 3 parts). On the negative side I then fell off the next crux really awkwardly and smacked my right hand on a sharp rock and randomly strained my left forearm. Climbed on for a brief time but it was essentially session over...
T - nothing.
W - BM session, +20kg. Forearm still feels a bit strainy so don't go balls deep.
T - BM session, +20kg. Forearm feels better but still not 100%, harder session but still holding back a bit.
F - supposed to be climbing outside after work but after a glorious blue sky morning the heavens open, bollocks. Fed up and mentally write off the whole weekend so head to the wall in a grump. Don't normally go to the wall after the clocks go forward. Anyway did the boulder problems. 30 problems to go at, got 28 flashed and the 29th after a couple of goes. Problem 30 was a shining example of someone trying to set way harder than they can climb, it was unpleasant holds, unpleasantly orientated in unpleasant positions, sacked it off after a handful of goes.
S - Decent weather so went outside. Sadly crag still wet, extension was unclimbably soaked but Gotham was workable wet. So that's what we did, it's starting to come together for Doug, and I managed to get pumped trying to hang on to dripping wet holds. It's all money in the bank I suppose.
S - Childcare, DIY, beach, cake and ice cream.

A fairly intense week, body felt well worked by Sunday. Also at the wall got an annoying split in my right middle finger in the crease of the joint. It's not big but is quite deep and one of those I'm-just-going-to-keep-splitting type splits, bloody wall mutter chunter grumble... Weather is my nemesis right now.

Nice one beasts to T_B and Mr Chaz.
Shark good to hear you're back in the game, now crush the Oak and kick three nine in the nuts
Sasquatch, sounds like you're balancing family life and crushing quite nicely there, inspiring stuff  ...

[petejh]

STG: Melanchollie (in May) or The Brute (in August)
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within three years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

Supposed to be Power-endurance phase week 3, but wasn't.

M. LPT, poor conditons. Working Melanchollie. 4 burns, good sesh but opened up a tear in right middle finger despite taping. All moves done except one.
T.
W. Core workout and back mobility.
T. LPT, poor conditions. Working Melanchollie. 3 burns. All moves done but still, after 3 days of working the route, I haven't been able to try without tape. Skin on both middle fingers in shit state by end of sesh, open tears.
F.
S.
S. LPT, poor conditions. Working melanchollie. 5 minute into session, 4 moves and the right middle finger tear re-opened. Fucking shite time. Drove to V12 and bought Climbskin. Ordered antihydral and Tincture of Benzoine.
M. LPT. Perfect conditions - 100% mint. Didn't climb anything because of tear in right middle finger. Spent session belaying.


Completely fucked-off and frustrated by trashed skin. Tearing open from shear forces near the first pad crease rather than a sharp edge cutting the skin. That's 3 proper sessions on Melanchollie in 3 weeks and my skin is destroyed. Missed the best conditions day yet and the previous session was over in 5 minutes and 4 moves. Will give it 4 days off to heal and see how the tears cope next time on. But I'm thinking about sacking it off as a bad idea and get on an 8b at Malham. Can't climb a route at your limit that you can't work.

[andy popp]

I would have liked to have seen that too but Noel being Noel he declined their invite and went to bed early.

There's really one only one question to ask in this sort of situation: "What would Jerry do?"

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 75.96 miles 4hrs 36 mins stuffed due it being windy as fuck.
Tue. Board trying various projects, climbed better than expected given yesterday's efforts.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board projects a bit of progress.
Fri. Nothing grandson Cameron to stay.
Sat. Board did one project and repeated a couple of old problems, pretty good session. Drove to Warrington to visit my mother. I had planned to go for a ride when I got back, played with grandson instead.
Sun. Board started off on a hard mirror session, fell apart three quarters in and to finish off with easier problems. Bike 40.10 miles 2hrs 19 mins.

[iain]

STG: Rehab shoulder - done, mostly
MTG: Infinite Gravity and Hasse Brandler in the Autumn

Shoulder is now feeling good enough that it's no longer injury rehab, more just being careful and gradually strengthening, now need a climbing goal.

M: Rest, shoulder rehab
T: AW routes. Hard to judge the difficulty as there seem to be several grading styles at the mo, but 8 routes up to around 6c+. Much lower volume than before injury but not as bad as I feared.
W: Rest
T: Secret Garden. Manage an un-named (in Peak bouldering anyway) 7A that may not deserve the grade. Didn't climb it very well but felt good being able to pull properly.
F: Works for a partial circuit and a few harder things. Left feeling tired but not powered out.
S: Rest, shoulder rehab
S: Slow day at Curbar where I fail on the only route I try and grumble about how much i dislike grit trad (ie. I'm not very good at it) and spend the rest of the day gently bouldering.

A good week as shoulder doesn't feel that limiting any more. Goal this week is to just up volume as my session fitness has a lot to recover and come up with a proper training plan for the Autumn.


Nice to see you back on it Shark, and nice one T_B, Mr Chaz

[gme]

I would have liked to have seen that too but Noel being Noel he declined their invite and went to bed early.

There's really one only one question to ask in this sort of situation: "What would Jerry do?"

I am sure you can imagine what he did.

[shurt]

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar (can do all moves as of 2 wks ago) or any 7b for that matter
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

T: 3 sets on fingerboard increased PU’s and moves on all apart from last set
- 50% up on moves in first
- 50% up on moves and an extra PU each time
- normal set 
Was tired after

W: PU’s 5 then 12 then 5

T: 3 sets on fingerboard
- 3/4 normal set each time with 50% up on moves and extra PU each time

F: chiropractor. much back cracking. felt good though. 

S: rested

S: on holiday

Hoping to get out to Cheddar or Brean this week. 

[fatneck]

Late report....

Tue - Pilates with hard instructor, fairly brutal.
Wed - nowt bar walking to and from work
Thur - Pilates with lightweight instructor but she decided to introduce weights. I made the mistake of grabbing the 2.5kg weights and was made to pay big time. Felt proper vommy afterwards and wont make that mistake again...
Fri - Hangar sesh with the wife and friends. Loads of new stuff as I haven't been for a couple of weeks. Flashed numerous reds (V4-6) got shut down on a few others and worked some whites (V5-7). Not a bad session overall.
Sat - family engagement in Shipley. Motorway shut. Turns in to 4 hour sufferfest.
Sun - more family stuff.

Not a bad week although lacking a bit of indoor power...

[tomtom]

[Luke Owens]

STG: Senile Penile Extension (7b+), The Screaming Skull (7b), Strawberry Tubin (7b)
MTG: Flowers are for the Dead (7c), Diamond Project, 7b+ Redpoint in Ceuse (September)
LTG: 8a

M: Rest

T: Raining everywhere, only place dry was Dulas cave. Did a few laps on Zoidburg (6c) and a couple on Spider Mite (6b).

W: Rest

T: Orme - Warmed up repeating Contusion (6c) then dogged the "Senile Penile Extension" (7b+).  Took awhile to work out. Came down for a rest, some guys wanted a go on the 6c and took a life time on it. Felt cold and was in a rush by the time I could get back on, got through a couple of the moves on the extension fell off then had to bail.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Orme - Wanted to get back on the extension some guys were on it. Waited ~2 hours for a go and it never happend, the whole wall was busy. Got annoyed and went to the Cutaway. Dogged up "Half Man Half Beard" (7a) had a redpoint and fell off after the crux with bad beta had a further 2 redpoints the last one falling off looking at the chains... powered out to hell, annoyed.

[Luke Owens]

Completely fucked-off and frustrated by trashed skin. Tearing open from shear forces near the first pad crease rather than a sharp edge cutting the skin. That's 3 proper sessions on Melanchollie in 3 weeks and my skin is destroyed. Missed the best conditions day yet and the previous session was over in 5 minutes and 4 moves. Will give it 4 days off to heal and see how the tears cope next time on. But I'm thinking about sacking it off as a bad idea and get on an 8b at Malham. Can't climb a route at your limit that you can't work.

From speaking to you on Sunday you shouldn't sack it off if you can do all the moves and feel strong on it, you've not been on it for that long either. I reckon you'll smash it with healed skin.

Let me know what that ClimbSkin is like, I'm interested in getting it as my skin is getting thinner by the day...

Cheers

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 5/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: "Rest" day... Gym instead. Worked myself.
T: St Leonards. Very sore after gym yesterday. New stuff up to around V5. Abit of campussing and fingerboarding after.
W: Rest. Proper rest day...
T: St Leonards. Usual stuff up to about V6. Made up new probs. Campus and fingerboard after. Core stuff too. Hard session because I'm not climbing the weekend.
F: Back down the coast after work. Rest day.
S: Besides a morning bushwalk, rest.
S: Lot 33. Couple of V4s and a V5. Lots more attempts on V9 dyno. Drove back to Syd.

Not much happened this week. Only got out once for like 2 hrs...

[petejh]

Let me know what that ClimbSkin is like, I'm interested in getting it as my skin is getting thinner by the day...

Cheers

The Climbskin's well-good, have been laying it on thick 3 times per day since last Sunday, between sanding sessions (good wrappy pencil tip Jordan!). Absorbs v.quickly and doesn't leave a greasy residue. Skin feels great apart from 2 healing cuts, and the healing cuts are healing... Moment of truth will be tomorrow on the rat crimps.

[Luke Owens]

Let me know what that ClimbSkin is like, I'm interested in getting it as my skin is getting thinner by the day...

Cheers

The Climbskin's well-good, have been laying it on thick 3 times per day since last Sunday, between sanding sessions (good wrappy pencil tip Jordan!). Absorbs v.quickly and doesn't leave a greasy residue. Skin feels great apart from 2 healing cuts, and the healing cuts are healing... Moment of truth will be tomorrow on the rat crimps.

Cheers pal, I'll get some ordered. Smash it tomorrow!

[Doylo]

Does this mean if you decide to sack it off after tomorrow I lose my belayer Sunday?

[Luke Owens]

Does this mean if you decide to sack it off after tomorrow I lose my belayer Sunday?

Surely you're going anywhere other than Dulas!?

[petejh]

Does this mean if you decide to sack it off after tomorrow I lose my belayer Sunday?

I'm a man of my word etc. If I get cut up again tomorrow you'll just have to put up with my anti-psyche demeanor dragging at your heels.

Dulas Luke, I figured it's been a while since I kicked some empty fosters cans around.