[tomtom]

M: Crag X to work on Jericho Road... met up with Plattsy and had a good session. Got to matching the slopey rail a few times, and made it (twice) to dropping down into the RH lower pinch thing. Had some fun trying the pinch holds towards the end of the session and surprised myself from going from "impossible to pull on" to pull on in a fashion over a few efforts..

T:

W:

Th: Back to CragX in the morning... I was super keen when I left the house but I was moving like lead. One of those sessions where I had no bounce or flow if that makes sense.. Managed to match the rail twice - managed to catch the drop down pinch once (somehow) on this effort.. Led to me questioning how to do the next moves through to the final hold - and receiving lots of advice in a beta thread... (thanks all)



Fr:

Sa: Back to X to work out how to do the part post rail. This time, instead of trying to climb up there, I just used the ladder to get to the upper stages, and eventually worked out a tall persons method. It wasnt all over there as I then had to come up with a way to match the final flake - which for me seems easiest getting it first with my right (not how many people do it...).



So - I now have the problem in overlapping sections - and had a good rest and one burn - that got me to the rail, but I was flat out. Tried a couple more times, but had used too much energy working out these earlier sections. Its now all worked out - so just needs good conditions and decent fitness from me and it should go!

Su: Harmers - met up with Andy Popp and had some fun working his new projects. Only really meant to go and have a potter and catch up, but ended up being a decent session

Well thats it - and I'm off to Oz on Monday/Tuesday for 10 days, so I'll get no climbing done in the next week at least...

[mr chaz]

Decent week of training. No outdoor climbing with my finals looming - Mon and Tuesday next week, I have a bad feeling about them  (i.e. I'm a lazy fucker and haven't been revising). Still, only myself to blame for that one...

M. 20 mins campussing, 20 mins 40 degree, rest of time working problems.
T. Fingerboard - max hangs and levers
W. Fingerboard - same again
T. Very easy session at the wall, making up some problems.
F. New yellows (V6 and up), managed a few of them. Decent session, lots of power and less fingery.
S. Rest
S. Rest

[fried]

Cheers TT.

Excellent week 

Mon - Cuisiniere. I usually come back disappointed from here, but despite the 25° heat I managed to pick off a good few reds. Had a look at La Superbe, flashed up to the dyno, but a miss doesn't look appealing, a spot neeeded. Went to look at Moondance, again a spot needed, twisted my ankle from 6 inches up which was a bad sign, ( fortunately it only started hurting when I got home, and was O.K within 24h). Picked off some more reds.

T - rest
W - BM session, good since I've not done any sessions since the weather improved. 45mins felt good.
Th - rest
Fri - Temperature drops, decide to go to 91.1. Pick off some reds that have had me beat for a long time. Finish Gratitude; one of the best problems I've ever done. Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

Go over to Sabots, and after a few goes get Le Porte à faux which I've been trying for ages, love this problem. Climb to my finger can't take anymore crimping on grattons, have a go at La Narine and do it second go. Very easy for the grade. A nice little haul of good 5+ problems.

S - Rest
Su - Rocher du Potala, bimble about doing some blues/ oranges wanted to do more but it's hot and I'm climbed out.

Feeling much more confident at red circuit level. Back in love with my whites.

Did some shoulder stretches everyday. Weight down to 74.9kg yesterday.

[nai]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Goals:

Spring - HFC & Short Chimes ((+ Why Me?, Let The Tripe Increase, Stone The Loach) and now The Sissy too).
Summer - Body Machine & Ext, Cornices?
Autumn - Raindogs, Full Chimes.

M - rest
T - Rubicon, HFC, 3 attempts, fall once going for the gaston and twice trying to move off it.  It's chewing my finger up again so have a hissy fit (most;y because I can't do it) and strip it.  I don't like this route since the breakage, the nottom used to climb really nicely but is now horriable, loathe to walk away having put so much into it and come so close.  Have two goes up the Sissy, find it hard but do all bar one move and at only nine moves plus a clip for the hard bit it suddenly has my atttention
w- rest
Th - Rubicon again. Feeling quite tired and unenthused, 3 goes up The Sissy, manage to get Haydn's beta to work and do all the moves and a few links, still hard but feasible.  Umm and ahh but decide skin isn't good enough and not worth risking further damage so call it a day early.
F - rest
S Malham - Raindogs - did ok I think - all the moves, some short links between the bolts although had hoped to get longer ones done, really struggled with the clipping positions, need to work on that and remembering the feet a bit better next time.  But overall encouraging, definitely a goer, just might need to work on the PE a bit.

S - Felt tired and stiff, heading for Two Tier all the way to the weir then went to Embankment, renewed hostilities with Stone the Loach. Got pumped on the 6b warm up, could barely do a move on StL getting the clips in then on first redpoint raced through the crux to the last hard move where I missed a foothold; 2nd go was rubbish (but only against the standard of the newly raised bar); 3rd go through crux but hand slipped off big pinch despite being fairly fresh; fourth go to last hard move again and with the string closing around the neck of the bag I made a schoolboy error moving a hand before a foot and fell, got straight back on and climbed to the top swearing, muttering and generally berating myself.

[nai]

twisted my ankle from 6 inches up which was a bad sign

In the long distant past before pads existed I saw someone break their ankle falling from 6 inches at Isatis, landed on a root and somehow it just snapped.

Sounds like a fun week otherwise, good effort

[the_dom]

Mon: 500 kettlebell swings, 30 shoulder presses and 30 TGUs with a 24 kg kettlebell
Tues: 40 min trail run
Wed: AM: hangboard - max one arms & mobility; PM: bouldering - short session as a result of a split tip
Thurs: 500 kettlebell swings, 30 shoulder presses and 30 TGUs with a 24 kg kettlebell
Friday: AM: hangboard - max one arms & mobility; PM: 40 min trail run
Sat: AM surf, PM hangboard - max hangs and repeaters
Sun: bouldering - worked, and did, the moves on a 7C+ - felt solid, should go in a session or two. Followed by hangboard - max one arms when I got home.

Solid training week, but I'm a little heavy and definitely feeling lack of climbing time.

[kelvin]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Looking at that week, I'm sure you can be forgiven.

[tomtom]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Looking at that week, I'm sure you can be forgiven.

I dunno... THREE rest days....

[shark]

11.3-5

M.
T.Systems board. Session at lunchtime then early eve. Better on crimp moves. Eve did 136 on screw on feet (first time?) then some 4 goes at 15 move PE laddering up and down
W.Back to Burns Unit. They are concerned about a patch on the side of my middle finger that isnt healing properly. They measured up so they can make a compression glove to prevent excessive scarring and said I should keep it of strong sunlight for 6 months
T.
F.
S. Raven Tor. Met Stacked Sam there. Cool temps. Took advantage of a top rope on Sardine. Climbed to crux and fell off. Then couldnt even dog it  lowered off. Had another go after a while and didnt even get across the low traverse    Partnered Sam off with Theo and headed to the pub to partially immerse my sorrows.
S. PM Drawn out fingerboard session whilst reading papers . Major improvement over last Sunday's session but still some way to go

Weight still low which is one positive and would be good if I got it lower still. Was hoping to be fully recovered this week but now realise I am going to have to deal with consequences for a few more weeks. Skin on hand is very sensitive with blood blisters and normal blisters appearing for no apparent reason. Its going to be a real grind to work my way back to full strength and fitness.   

[Boredboy]

You can do it dude!

[shark]

You can do it dude!

Thanks bud

[tomtom]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

[shark]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

Yes - I'd like to have another go at Jericho Road

[lagerstarfish]

Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

I've always liked it. I've probably done it a dozen or so times over the last 25 years and have felt bloody brilliant each time.

[andy popp]

Goals: projects, some other bonus stuff maybe.

M: Was meant to be a rest day as I'd trained Sunday and was planning to train Tuesday but the weather was nice and I was feeling restless. Nipped to Pex, warmed up and then ran through a handful of problems up to V5/6. My right shoulder was quite sore in the evening, from catching a dyno I think. Some therabandy type stuff.
T: shoulder definitely sore, more therabandy. Manage to squish knuckle/tip of middle left finger in the door. But training on the board goes OK - definitely a touch stronger than the last two weeks.
W: out at a workshop in Wolverhampton. Long day.
T: light shoulder stuff, repeaters on the fingerboard in the late afternoon. Even more than on the board there's a marked improvement
F: light shoulder stuff
S: Nowt
S: Harmers project. After various false starts I managed to make a big link on the upper half, doing most of it ... just. Slightly alarmed at the thought of highballing this. TT arrives and we start trying the start. Tom discovers he can completely lank past the crux ( sorry Tom) from a better lower foothold. I try it and come up about 1cm short, at the most. Multiple goes and tinkering with methods doesn't lead to any improvement. But I feel encouraged; perhaps fresher and with stiffer shoes I might be able to find the extra millimetres I need. A long session in the end and I feel a bit battered afterwards.

Pretty good week; the next two are busy (guests, flying trip to Copenhagen) so activity will be curtailed but determined to manage something.

[kelvin]

Thanks Tom

Good effort Shark - you may be frustrated but I'm guessing everyone reading this is suitably impressed. Keep it up fella.

An interesting week for me, learnt lots and finished with a tweaked wrist.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Foot on campus session. Finally got the rails back up at the wall, had to beg them to put a foothold on for me that was off to the left and too high but still psyched to have a session. No small rails up yet, so had to use the medium Metolius and was unsure of what rest time to use between sets. 4 sets of 30sec on 90sec off (13 moves) x 7. 5min rest between sets. Failed on the last two goes by 5 and 6 sec respectively.
Wed - Leading. Had a play on the new routes by Alex Mason. Was battered from work and the session the day before, took a few falls, failed on lots but it was good to see Eric trying hard on 6c just two days after his seventh chemo session.
Thu - Yoga. Feeling like I'm making progress here, guess I started around September, so it's took a while.
Fri - Drive Wales.
Sat - Main Cliff, Gogarth. Cruised up a HVS until I got to some holds that my wrist couldn't negotiate, left it too late to downclimb to the rest 3m below and peeled off. Biggest fall yet, an easy 10m. Then went on Scavenger, mate went the wrong way, wrist was struggling after the last climb and couldn't pull hard on an overhanging bit with no feet, eventually scrambled through by pulling on a draw - bailed. Not the place to be fuckin' about. 
Sun - Penmaen Head. Wrist was swollen and tender, did a 5 and then quit. Couldn't weight the right hand. Belayed Jordon for a few hours and headed home.

Positives -

Content with the foot on work, much better than expected after two months off. Powered out but also slightly pumped, low end of ancap.
Started brightly at Gogarth, felt really comfortable on steep rock for the first time ever. No pump at all until I had to fart around because of the wrist.
Happy above my gear and the fall just didn't register - fall practice has been working well.

Negatives -

Now I don't get pumped, I actually take in what's happening and I'm only just learning how badly my wrist works. Frustrating as hell. Spent a few seconds screaming and kicking the rock Ondra style yesterday 
Work is busy at the moment and that's messing climbing about. Permanently tired.

Only just realising that I actually need to work out different sequences out for my right wrist - fine on sport or bouldering but not so good when trying to onsight trad routes. I think before, when I was always pumped and stressed that I just assumed I wasn't strong enough but it's not that. I need two sets of moves, one for my right side and one for my left. The obvious move is there but often not open to me and yesterday after falling, I ended up doing a ridiculous layback to go past the bit I was struggling on.
So decided to put the trad gear away for a while, until I know how to climb instinctively. It's not right heading up multipitch climbs when it's quite possible that there'll be a stopper move, in terms of, it'll take me a while to work out a way round it.

Psyched by Gogarth main cliff  Gonna head to Spain, work out how to get round my wrist issues and get back there. Quite the place.

[T_B]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Maybe too much by the sounds of Sunday? I could never do 4 out of 7 days on Peak Limestone!

[T_B]

85.9Kg (creeping up  )

M - Foundry lunch. Circuits. Didn't time the rests, but just did a lot of 30-move volume in an hour.
T -
W - Rowter Rocks. Decided the cool temps meant a final grit fling, so went to check out Domes Sitter at Rowter. Did the stand up and fell off slapping the top of the sitter once. Psyched on such a cool problem. Also had a brief play on Pink Lady.
T - Foundry lunch. Repeaters. Managed 2 x 6 x 7 front 3 and 2 x 4 x 7 back 3. Totally rubbish on bottom rungs of the BM. Did some locks and pull ups. Good session.
F - School lunch. Decided that training needs to take precedent over climbing this week, so boulder. Surprised to feel really good on the 50 degree, repeating stuff up to 7A+ and doing well on a 7C. Finish with 5 x reps of AnCap circuit. Tired.
S - Head out at 6pm to meet Dave and Cofe at Burb N. Warm up in amazing cold windy conditions. 7pm arrive at Sheep Shifter, Cave Dale. They've been on it before so know the beta. Cofe leads the send train. It's 7.45pm. I decide to mission it across to Rowter. 8.30 back on Domes Sitter. 8.45pm it's in the bag. Get carried away and run back to car, drive up to Stanton parking and run into Brad's Wall with one pad. Arrive sweating profusely. No wind and it feels about 20 degrees. Have a few goes but obvious that the holds are too small, fingers too sweaty and the top too slopey. Beautiful wall/rock - will be back next winter. Walk out and back at car for 9.30.

Good training week, good climbing week (though failed to open my Mecca account). Off to N Wales for Whitsun, so will do another f/board session, bouldering and AnCap. Main goals are Lou Ferrino and Hatchatrocity.

[T_B]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

You should check out Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale. 7B. Really nice.

[Muenchener]

STG: Go climbing
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

Fingers still feeling tweaked/vulnerable, and busy with family & work stuff, so another week of taking it pretty easy.

M: Bike to work 25km
T: Bike to work 25km
W:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. 7b circuit project: worked out a reliable & repeatable sequence for the crux that is ok as move one but not - yet - as move 22.
F: Knee physio, kettlebells, core
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. The stopper move on the proj is still a stopper move.
S: Ammergau : evening hillwalk as alpine approach training. 745 metres ascent in 1 hour 10 minutes; not bad considering there was a kilometre flat stretch in the middle. Light rucksack though, without the gratuitous extra water bottles I normally carry for this sort of thing.

[shark]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

You should check out Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale. 7B. Really nice.

Id be keen to go on that too

[shark]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

No apology required. Given that you failed on everything I'd still classify it all as training...

[tomtom]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

You should check out Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale. 7B. Really nice.

Id be keen to go on that too

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/182-cave-dale#.VVmUi5dVhBc

[nai]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Given that you failed on everything I'd still classify it all as training...

Oof.  Your hand's clearly improving if you can twist the knife like that.

[iain]

Was hoping to be fully recovered this week

Doctor says: It'll be 4-6 weeks before you don't need bandages and ... yada yada yada
Shark hears: I'll be fine in 4 weeks
Shark thinks: I'll do it in 3!

I am going to try to curb my impatience ‘going forward’

[nai]

Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

I've always liked it. I've probably done it a dozen or so times over the last 25 years and have felt bloody brilliant each time.

Just realised what this is (ok, I looked it up), it is an awesome problem, the moves to get the arete from the crack are phenomenal. The topout's not easy from what I recall either so be prepared for interest after the main event.

[jwi]

STG:
Hanging 6mm edge for 10s on my adjustable fingerboard.
Getting back to 20+ pullups.
MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging on Naranjo in August. /Todra in September. Wherever we decide to go
LTG: TBD

Mo:  Fingerboard and some pullups
Tue: Gym bouldering finished with A spot of campusing
Wed: rest
Thur: St Géry. Low intensity day. Tried an 8a+/b that had a move on a sloper I couldn't do. Hopefully because of high humidity
Fri: nothing
Sat: Fingerboard and some pullups. 19 concecutive pullups in good form. Had to rest two seconds in the bottom position after 16. Fingerboarding with the edge set to 7mm did five sets of 10s with 13s hang on the fifth. Should be ready to move down to ≈6.5mm next week
Sun: Climbing in Bielsa. Quite mellow. 6c+ o/s (35m) 7b retroflash (40m+), 7c+ (40m) failed to os, stripped, 7b+ I thought I hadn't done before, turned out not to be the case.

Progression:
Weight: 70-71 kg
19 pullups, 7mm edge crimped 4x10" and then 13"
flash of white's in the gym: 0
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5

[fried]

Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

I've always liked it. I've probably done it a dozen or so times over the last 25 years and have felt bloody brilliant each time.

Just realised what this is (ok, I looked it up), it is an awesome problem, the moves to get the arete from the crack are phenomenal. The topout's not easy from what I recall either so be prepared for interest after the main event.

It was a great day of mat and beta sharing. A couple of Dutch? lads did it just before and we had a heart in the mouth moment when he lost his footing on the top out. I hope that if I hit the top hold nervous adrenaline will carry me through.

[shark]

Was hoping to be fully recovered this week

Doctor says: It'll be 4-6 weeks before you don't need bandages and ... yada yada yada
Shark hears: I'll be fine in 4 weeks
Shark thinks: I'll do it in 3!

I am going to try to curb my impatience ‘going forward’

 

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers as much as possible before two week sport trip in June
MTG: get to the bottom of the endless finger injury cycle (current haul is LH ring finger a2 and LH index collateral ligament strain)

Didn't post last week because I did no 'training' in the sense of trying to get better. Just puntered about doing easy stuff in order to keep the circulation going in the fingers. Similar this week:

M: indoors, did easy circuit, some press ups, dips and assisted one-armers
T: shoulder stability with weights
W: same as mon: easy bouldering and then some bar and floor exercises
T. shoulder stability
F: same as mon/wed
S: went outdoors with idea of doing very easy bouldering but forgot my shoes, probably my subconscious doing some good work. Had a nice walk and picnic instead
S. more indoor pottering

Pretty boring week and certainly no progress to report. It's all about trying not to get totally shit while rehabbing the injuries. All the same I've been focusing on technique while doing easy stuff, mostly on keeping good core tension because I'm useless at this, and it's becoming more natural. In essence I'm doing a sort of base phase of loads of easy climbing and non-specific exercise because that's what the fingers allow, unfortunately I've a trip in two weeks and should be trying to peak. I just have to reassess what's achievable for the trip without hindering the rehab too much.

[petejh]

STG: The Oak (by early June) or The Brute (in August)
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within three years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

M. Belaying duty at LPT, waiting for cuts from Sunday to heal.
T. Put the lotion in the basket..
W. Put the lotion in the basket. Core workout and back mobility.
T. Put the lotion in the basket.
F. Cuts seemed to be healed. LPT, dogged melanchollie to put clips in. 1st burn, rinsed the start crux promptly re-opening cut in rh middle finger. End of session after 4 proper moves. Belayed Ollie,  dropped last move of Liquid when foot popped, looking well-strong. Contemplate the futility of life and training while staring out to sea.
S. Went to Malham. Super-glued and taped finger and had a first look at The Oak. Brilliant moves, brilliant route and skin friendly. Managed some good links from the horn to the last gaston on traverse left after helpful beta from Pete C. Didn't notice finger, yes!
S. Belayed a man in a cave with some pigeons. Treated myself to ticking the grade 6s on secteur guache de dulas. Sore tips but glued-up cut still ok.


That's the end of trying Melanchollie, fuck that with weak skin. Frustrating becasue I feel strong on the moves. The Oak is brilliant and I'm well psyched for Malham. Great end to a what could have been a rubbish week.

[Muenchener]

W: same as mon: easy bouldering and then some bar and floor exercises

[Schnell]

W: same as mon: easy bouldering and then some bar and floor exercises

What? You mean this isn't UKBallet

[iain]

TL:DR - Good week overall, I can (mostly) climb without the shoulder being a problem, now need to work on getting the fitness back.

---------
"How's your shoulder?", "Fine" I said 10 minutes before coming down from Hungry Eyes because my shoulder didn't feel right.
Turns out climbing peak lime puts the shoulder in a lot of wierd/stretched postions I didn't get inside so:

STG: More shoulder rehab, start training for Autumn, get outside more
S/MTG: Secret Gudgeon Society when shoulder's up to it, Body Machine, The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach and E4/5 lime trad.
MTG: Hasse Brandler in Sept


M: Wanted to head out but reports of a dripping Cheedale meant I headed to the Works. Aimed for harder problems, left feeling worked but not done in.
T: Rain during the day meant another Works session. Aimed for a volume of problems and had my longest session post injury. Left battered. Judging by other posts I should've made the effort to get outside.
W: Rest
T: Had wanted to head outdoors but partner didn't want to risk tweaked finger on peak lime so Foundry for routes. Warmed up then flashed a 7a (pleasant surprise) and cleaned a 7a+ I'd last done before the injury (bigger surprise) although I moved fairly quickly on both so cheated my lack of fitness. This was shown up on 2 other 7a's and a 6c+ where I got 3/4 of the way up before running out of steam.
F: Had intended to train but lacked motivation. Rest and shoulder rehab.
S: 6+ mile walk over Bamford, Stanage and Burbage.
S: Embankment. First time on peak lime routes this year and it showed. Got flash pumped and sat on the 6b 'warmup' and had a hard time remembering how to use my feet although that improved over the session. Struggled on Hungry Eyes but managed all but one shouldery move on Secret Gudgeon Society. Nice route.
Nai made Stone the Loach look really good.


I've got 16 weeks till HB which is plently of time to get fit enough for it. What is a problem is that looking at the diary I don't have a free weekend for Infinite Gravity till after HB, mid-late sept, which is when the weather crapped out in 2013. Unless I'm lucky with partners/weather it's probably on hold till next year.
I'm still going to train for it though, partly because if the opportunity presents itself I want to be ready, and partly because it's a half way house between peak lime sport and big trad and should get me up what I want to do on both.

[cheque]

STG- Finish film without becoming irretrievably crap at climbing.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- Become a sponsored hero obviously.

M-

T- Swimming: 1 hour breaststroke.

W-

T- Pleasley Vale. Not a fan of the crag but it's ten minutes drive from my work and has a traverse that I don't even need a mat for so it's ideal for training, especially while I'm doing at least an hour of editing every day. Couldn't do the traverse (last time I was here, in July, I did the extended version four times...)  but this was partly due to trying to repeat 6C boulder problem (which I also didn't do) with another guy. All good training.

F- Rest. Quite sore.

S- Supporting mate doing a "30 extremes on Stanage" birthday challenge. At the crag for 7:30AM. This presented an obvious chance to get some fitness and experience of a big day doing lots of short pitches. I've also long suspected that my crapness at trad is partly due to never doing it with people who climb harder than me so never getting the experience of seconding harder routes. Seconded 7 pitches, all at least as hard as I'd lead, with mixed (but encouraging) results- keen to go back and lead everything I seconded. Well, except for Impossible Slab- fuck that. Excellent day.

S- Rest. Really sore.

Started my campaign to get back into shape this week. So much fun but my body's not used to working hard! Thursday and Saturday have confirmed to me that I really lack oomph and fitness but my technique has, if anything, improved. I have enough time to work this problem out though.

[Luke Owens]

The Oak is brilliant and I'm well psyched for Malham. Great end to a what could have been a rubbish week.

Psyche restored, nice one Pete!

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 5/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: St Leonards. No campus. As usual, made my own problems.
T: St Leonards. New stuff up to around V5. Abit of campussing and fingerboarding after.
W: Rest.
T: Twin Creeks. New crag a mate is developing. Not many problems and nothing hard, flashed every established problem and put up 4 more up to around V4ish.
F: Fox Cave. First time here. Low roof with probs up to V12. Did a V5 3rd go to warm up then started working a V8. Fairly long burly "jug" run through the roof into a nasty crimpy top. Did all the moves besides the last 2. Crimp was so sharp, started to slice my finger. Did roof in 2 overlapping halves (?). Horrible crag. Totally uninspiring. Won't come back for a long time.
Caught up with brother (lives in Canada flying back on Sunday) for dinner and beers. Ended up getting hammered and got 2 hrs sleep before working all sat.
S: Hungover as fuck. Work.
S: Finally recovered. The Den. Housemate reckons I could do Fight Club V10 here, so we went along. Too hot, dripping water, hard moves. Didn't tick anything. Not even the V5 warm up.
Fight Club: Did all the moves except the first move. First move, I could barely even pull on. Not anywhere near well enough to consider moving my hand. From the first move in, I did to the end in 2 overlapping sections. Felt maybe V6ish from here.
Left when it got dark, still wanted to climb so went to St Leonards. Quick session before they closed. Ran laps on some of the harder things here then did a core workout with a mate before going for thai.

A mate ticking Fight Club the day before:

[gme]

Mon- works circuit board for an hour. Short session before taking colleagues from Holland out.
Tues- Nowt. Eating and drinking again with the above colleagues.
Wed- School. warm up then start working the 7c+(8a+) purple 60 move circuit. Good fun before my skin started to disintegrate.
Thurs- nowt
Fri- Nowt
Sat- Nowt
Sun- Moonboard Alnwick- up to 6C then failure. Pretty depressing.

Well not quite the start back i had planned this week. On the positive side my finger still hurts but is on the mend, time to MTFU I guess. However a week off before surf trip, 2 weeks surfing and a week off with jetlag/work/exhaustion have taken there toll and I now feel like I have gone back a few months.
The plan was to be starting on the endurance phase of my plan now but with a better power base. So I should really boulder still for a few weeks to get my power up to where it was, however i don't think my finger is up to it yet so am going to concentrate on the circuits. The one at the school doesn't hurt at all (other than skin) and i did all the moves straight off on the brown 7c at the works so these are the focus for the next 4-6 weeks.

Also i am back up to 83kg which doesn't help. Kind of lost the motivation to watch what i eat/drink when i got injured and am now paying for it. So if anyone sees me in the Broady with a pint waiting for my Kebab to be cooked please admonish me.

Now i am in my old age i find that i loose any gains i have made very quickly if i don't climb. I didn't used to have that problem. Regularity is key rather than specifics of what i do.

[tomtom]

Also i am back up to 83kg which doesn't help. Kind of lost the motivation to watch what i eat/drink when i got injured and am now paying for it. So if anyone sees me in the Broady with a pint waiting for my Kebab to be cooked please admonish me.

Now i am in my old age i find that i loose any gains i have made very quickly if i don't climb. I didn't used to have that problem. Regularity is key rather than specifics of what i do.

In the weight department I find not drinking (or drinking very little - occasionally) really helps with keeping the lbs off..

But the travelling for work lifestyle makes it harder to eat well - and to build in any kind of training routine...

I seem to be quicker at getting back into shape (e.g. after a week or two off) in the last couple of years - I wonder if the body gets better at this..?

[T_B]

The plan was to be starting on the endurance phase of my plan now but with a better power base. So I should really boulder still for a few weeks to get my power up to where it was, however i don't think my finger is up to it yet so am going to concentrate on the circuits....

....Now i am in my old age i find that i loose any gains i have made very quickly if i don't climb. I didn't used to have that problem. Regularity is key rather than specifics of what i do.

How about some AnCap circuits on the big board at the School? Carefully constructed so as not to hurt finger, but will also get your some strength/power back.

I know what you've said about F/Boarding not being as good as bouldering for finger strength, but isn't it the obvious thing to try and slot in if "regularity is key"?

Sounds like the pulley is on the mend anyway 

[shurt]

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar (can do all moves as of 2 wks ago) or any 7b for that matter
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

M: on holiday
T:  on holiday - ate and drank too much
W: Managed 2 reduced sets (60’s) felt done in.
T: Rested as was going to go climbing Friday which ultimately fell through
F: Rested as was due to go climbing Saturday
S: Went climbing - YES! Ended up going down to Dartmoor bouldering for the day which was a bit out of the blue and a welcome rest from the limestone sports climbing numbers grind which has set in of late. Weather was amazing and whilst I didn't do Easdon Arete (the casual goal for the day) did a load of other new stuff up to about v5 and soloed anaerobic and aerobic wall at Hound Tor (backed off Limbo Dancer!). It was a feel good day all round.
S: Skin utterly trashed. Got lemon juice in a cut cooking dinner, Ow.
 

[gme]

How about some AnCap circuits on the big board at the School? Carefully constructed so as not to hurt finger, but will also get your some strength/power back.

This is the plan and agree its a great way of getting the strength back.

I know what you've said about F/Boarding not being as good as bouldering for finger strength, but isn't it the obvious thing to try and slot in if "regularity is key"?

And yes i need to do this and intend to start this week, lunch time sessions in the works. I do think FB is good when your recovering from an injury as its really controlled.

[gme]

In the weight department I find not drinking (or drinking very little - occasionally) really helps with keeping the lbs off..


[/quote]

Tell me something i don't know. I am now on a no drinking in the week mode with caveats ( its allowed with one or more of the following- colleagues, clients, wife, friends I have not had a pint with for a week or so, friends i have had a drink with in the last week but dont see them that often, and sporting events.)

So basically i am going to have to stop eating.

[tomtom]

[Dolly]

Power Club is a good read this week.


M Foundry board. Nearly did T_B's circuit that he cruises round.
T
W Foundry Wave with Neil B. just did as many level 2s as I could in 50 mins. Tired
T Kettlebells in my pants in the disabled toilet in the corner of the office
F
S Thorn Crag. Lots of problems. Had a great day and still ache now really.
S No real training but lots of gardening. Back hurt afterwards
 

[mr chaz]

T Kettlebells in my pants in the disabled toilet in the corner of the office

Respect!

[webbo]

Mon. Bike half mile intervals times 5 slight down hill incline.
Tue. Board did project of last few sessions and repeated some things from last year.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board. Hard mirror session. Light dumbbell workout.
Fri. Bike half mile intervals times 5 up the incline.
Sat. Scout hut to warm out of the wind too windy in the wind. Stuff up to 6c+
Sun. Bike 72.65 miles 4 hrs 14 mins windy as fuck.

[Sasquatch]

STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight(FAIL-). Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt...

M-Run 3.25mi
T-FB-Max Hangs - New PB 3 x 10sec x 262lbs on BM2k lower edges.  Boulder outside w friend.  Beautiful afternoon to play on easy slabs. 
W-
T-Outside session to projects - warmed up at the Chickaloon boulders repeated stuff up to 7C to get fully warmed up. 

On to first project- White Whale Project day 1.  Did opening sequence 1st go through to 4th move (there are only really 8 moves plus a little hand shuffle), hung about figuring out 5th and 6th moves.  Did 7th move and worked 8th.  2nd burn figured out 5th and 6th move and linked through 5th move, so all but the last move sorted out.  Last move though is a HUGE dyno.  Gave it a couple efforts, and came up about 12-16 inches short.  Think I can get closer, but doing it after the other 7 big hard crimp moves will be really HARD. Very happy though as the sequence is nails and good.  Good project and really hard which I wanted.

On to 2nd project - Prosthetic Project - day 2.  I had sorted out the opening sequence on day 1 and linked up to the final crux, so I started out trying to figure that out.    I have memories of a friend doing the upper part from 10-12 years ago through a crazy gaston move.  I tried that quite a bit and wrecked that whole side of my body, and got nowhere.  Partner also equally stymied.  2nd time up I reclimbed the lower crux sequence, and tried an insanely sharp crimpy sequence through the top.  This equence boils down to a 2.5ft move to a razor blade, matching it and a 2.5ft move from it. I did the move to it, and the move from matched, but didn't match it.  Certain it will go that way though, so pretty psyched.  I may deglove my tip trying it though. 

Overall really good day on the projects.  Project #2 seems like it may go in another few day of work, Project #1 may go once I spend a month getting better at dynos. 
F-Easy boulder session to work out kinks from yesterday.  Late night 
S-Mtn Bike 1 hr, Late night 
S-started FB session, and sacked it off due to poor form and lack of motivation. 

Overall good week with two fantastic days.  Dropping weight will REALLY HELP for both projects, but that's hard with family in town, birthdays, and graduations.  The Week ended on a low due to too much drinking and lack of sleep.  One more week of family in town, then off to Seattle for a week, and then it'll calm down. 

[nik at work]

STG Gotham extension still...
Mtg 8c
Ltg 9a
Etc..

M bm session +20kg good session
T nowt
W outside. Gotham extension. Warm up go fall (or more like slide) off wet crux holds of the extension. Warm down go don't take up second rope, get through extension crux then rope drag becomes predictably epic, stupid.
T bike ride and ice cream
F bm session, unweighted, decent session
S sneak out for a couple of hours and do a new E6 of the bold solo variety.
S diy

Not a bad week, the weather is frustrating me, hey ho.

[Luke Owens]

STG: Senile Penile Extension (7b+), The Screaming Skull (7b), Strawberry Tubin (7b)
MTG: Flowers are for the Dead (7c), Diamond Project, 7b+ Redpoint in Ceuse (September)
LTG: 8a

M: Rest

T: Orme - Did Contusion and put the clips on on Senile, worked the moves a bit. First redpoint couldn't clip draw on crux and powered out. 2nd redpoint felt greasy and tired. Sorted out all the beta exactly how I need it including the clipping positions so not a wasted session.

W: 15 Mins Aerocap warm up
Feet-on fingerboarding Ancap 5 x 2mins on 2 mins off. Almost completely powered out on last set.
15 mins Aerocap warm down

T: Had planned to go out put weather/tiredness put me off

F: Rest

S: Again planned to go out but ended up doing 13 hours in the garden... strained something in my lower back (something clicked and I was in a heap on the floor) Ibuprofen and Deep Heat in excess.

S: Orme - back felt fine. People on Contusion so sacked off the extension project instantly (I have no patience) Got on The Bearded Clam (7a+) a classic and steep (for me/antistyle) route. Dogged up and worked the moves crux felt fine. 1st RP fell off on lower wall having not worked it out properly pulled back on and too the top in one. 2nd RP did the same thing and then actually worked out some good beta and climbed to the top in one again. Keen to get back on it, it's ace and not what I'm used too (big holds).

Felt tired but went and ticked Half Man Half Beard (7a) at the Cutaway. Felt easy this time and I didn't feel tired on it despite it being the end of the session, weird!

I've now got some "ClimbSkin" cream and it's working wonders on the skin so far, cheers Pete!