[ianv]

I know its a weird concept, but my shoulders are goosed from various mountain bike accidents (separated AC joint and a broken collar bone  ). I need to strengthen them but stuff like shoulder presses are a total no no.

Can anyone think of anything that I could try?

[mr__j5]

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/one-workout-every-climber-should-do

[milksnake]

swimming?

[Oldmanmatt]

Yep, exercising in the water and swimming a variety of strokes. Get a leg float, so you can concentrate on the upper body for part of the session.

[mark s]

I also can't go near standard  o/h presses.these work for me,don't know if will be the same for you.try presses with a bar where your palms face each other,rather than forward.dumbell side raises but with bent arms(less stress on joints)front raises,cable side raises,cables will cause less stress.,bent over rear lateral.just try differant things ,any pain try another.
Not really climber specific but I've not climbed for months (sorry AndiT)

[mark s]

 Newflash; according to @minaclimbing all you have to do is take your nose ring out and thank some chiropractor and your shoulder will be pain free !
What a load of utter fooking bolliocks

[ianv]

DPM stuff looks like a good place to start 

Swimming doesn't work, I have an impingement from the metal plate in my collar bone so can only do breast stroke.

Not really climber specific but I've not climbed for months (sorry AndiT)

Only a few months, I hadn't climbed for 20 years! Now every time I try to get back training I get knocked back by some stupid shoulder injury 

Will try some of those suggestions but the lateral stuff is likely to be a no go I reckon. My shoulders are really really fucked at the moment.

Cheers All

[AndiT]

Not really climber specific but I've not climbed for months (sorry AndiT)

You've never been sorry, not for nothing.

[mark s]

me and andi have questioned this elementchiro via twitter how removing a nose stud can fix a shoulder injury,but all he could do was use scientific words to give some credabilty to his western witchcraft.

[ianv]

me and andi have questioned this elementchiro via twitter how removing a nose stud can fix a shoulder injury,but all he could do was use scientific words to give some credabilty to his western witchcraft.

Pretty obvious really, the extra weight of the nose stud causes disequilibrium in the spine and inflames tendons in the shoulder.

Before nose ring removal


After nose ring removal


 

[duncan]

I found side-planks and variations theron to be beneficial for a dodgy shoulder.  They didn't exacerbate it in the way that some other exercises had.  If you have metalwork that is interfering with something all bets are off however.

me and andi have questioned this elementchiro via twitter how removing a nose stud can fix a shoulder injury,but all he could do was use scientific words to give some credabilty to his western witchcraft.

The nose-stud thing does seem a bit unlikely, you'd thought there would be a shoulder pain epidemic in India.

Disclosure: I have previous with this chap.  On another climbing website I suggested evidence demonstrates physio., osteopathy and chiropractic all have similar effectiveness for back pain and patients are similarly happy with their care and therefore you should go to whoever got the best recommendation locally rather than obsessing over one 'brand' or another.  I received a 4300 word email within about 3 hours of posting.   Admirable productivity but it seemed a bit of an over-reaction.

[mark s]

the more you read into it,the crazier it sounds.no wonder he sent a big email like that fighting his corner.charging 70 sheets an hour for what is basically a load of crap its not surprising he is defensive.
id love to be able to charge 70 p/h to put salt down in peoples gardens telling them it keeps lions away (disclaimer,doesnt work in zimbabwee)
he was doing the usual quack trick of saying testomonials prove it works,but people desperate for a cure will try anything
ive got a white lab coat and a stethascope and some sugar pills ,im sure i by chance some people will think ive cure them.

anyway,im sure we are all intelligent enough on here to know shoulder injuries require a bit more than faith and snake oil.

[rich d]

I've just removed my prince albert. In the interest of science I'll let you know if my shoulder starts to feel better. Although the weight reduction seems to be helping my wrists.

[ianv]

If you have metalwork that is interfering with something all bets are off however.

Yep metal work in the shoulder unfortunately, not in the nose though so no quick cure for me 

[mark s]

I wonder what the knob is connected to,prob the brain haha.
It seems crazy that Mina is happy to apply science to indoor training etc then says the mother load of a big fuck off to science by thinking a nose stud removal is the reason of a pain free shoulder.I'd only lifes injuries were so easy to fix.

[BB]

I wonder what the knob is connected to,prob the brain haha.
It seems crazy that Mina is happy to apply science to indoor training etc then says the mother load of a big fuck off to science by thinking a nose stud removal is the reason of a pain free shoulder.I'd only lifes injuries were so easy to fix.

This new learning amazes me. Tell me again how you sheep's bladders maybe employed to prevent earthquakes.

[mr__j5]

I wonder what the knob is connected to,prob the brain haha.
It seems crazy that Mina is happy to apply science to indoor training etc then says the mother load of a big fuck off to science by thinking a nose stud removal is the reason of a pain free shoulder.I'd only lifes injuries were so easy to fix.

Well, I am pretty sure that at the last team training he found a weakness in one of Shauna's movements that they couldn't account for and eventually tried removing an earring and she showed improvement. So it either works in some really uncomprehensible way or there is some really wierd mental issue where you just think it better because you are told that the foreign body is responsible for the issue and then that is removed. But I doubt it.

I don't believe this shit works, but I know that it has produced results.

[Paulos]

IMO stressing the joints is the main point of training, as having strong soft tissue and sinew is what makes you strong climber. Building bulk on shoulders will probably just weigh you down

[petejh]

Well, I am pretty sure that at the last team training he found a weakness in one of Shauna's movements that they couldn't account for and eventually tried removing an earring and she showed improvement. So it either works in some really uncomprehensible way or there is some really wierd mental issue where you just think it better because you are told that the foreign body is responsible for the issue and then that is removed. But I doubt it.

I don't believe this shit works, but I know that it has produced results.

HUMAN BEING IN PLACEBO-EFFECT SHOCKER! 

Golfers get the yips, Torres can't score in a brothel, climbers get 'unaccounted-for weakness in movements'. Find the right placebo and the mind does the rest. Some minds need lots of convincing -  a white coat, cetificate and a hefty charge often works.


Here's my current shoulder regime for a slight muscle tear in my rh supraspinatous: http://919clinic.co.uk/exercise_detail.aspx?e=3

[Paul B]

Well, I am pretty sure that at the last team training...

Its wonderful that the British Team is linked with such amazing science. Can anyone tell me how I fix an A2 injury, I don't have any piercings to remove and its really sore?

[Stubbs]

You should turn your phone off Paul, it will be the electromagnetic interference messing with your A2 aura...

[Paul B]

I was actually looking for some research regarding acupuncture and A2's etc. and came across some anecdotal evidence of it being used with an electronic current to stimulate blood flow. This technique is called E-stim. DO NOT type E-stim into google. There are some weird people out there.

[petejh]

Of course I just did...


Whose arse does the injured finger get put up?

[Paul B]

Doylo?

[petejh]

That's one placebo I'm not prepared to try.