I thought Tom posted some Science in another thread basically saying that it didn't (fairly recently).
If I remember rightly, almost complete capillary occlusion will occur at 30% of max in a muscle, so I suppose you'd have to find out if open handing/crimping caused varying capillary occlusion at the same force applied.I'd always thought it was better to open hand, but I think it's more a natural deduction that you're drawn to because:When you're crimping on a route = you're trying hard on the moves = you get pumpedWhen you're open handing on a route = you're often not at your limit = you're less pumped. The above is a massive generalisation, but I think across the whole spectrum of routes/route experiences, this would hold true. So................. I thought, why not test out this on crimp master himself Ed Hamer. He's a monster on crimps, but would he be any good if I forced him to open hand. Well, interestingly, his endurance was actually better on the crimp. Make me have a bit of a re-think.I tried it out on myself as well and I found I have no difference at all if I crimp or not. I was surprised to say the least.
Does anyone have an idea how endurance or power endurance is related to relative strength at certain grip types?Say, If I'm strong on crimps and weak on pockets then will I have better crimp endurance?Or can I train pocket endurance to better-than my crimp endurance even though I'm maximally stronger on crimps?
There are general rules that you can go by, but they can always be broken by odd climbing styles/inefficiencies/psychological issues.
It's almost impossible to say conclusively whether one person will experience the same issues as another when training different grip types for endurance. There are general rules that you can go by, but they can always be broken by odd climbing styles/inefficiencies/psychological issues.Mostly grip types should be fairly specific to their angle when it comes to strength or endurance due to the rule of specificity Personally, I'd make a decision on what type of climbing I was aiming for and train predominantly that grip type. You can't go too far wrong hopefully