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Inspiring 8A's (Read 18155 times)

Adam Lincoln

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#25 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 02:51:28 pm
I just presumed this toe-hook jazz made it much easier, as was implied on various 8a.nu scorecards and general mutterings? Perhaps not. I'm happy to bump it back up to 8a...

I think you should  ;) Newberry or Clement are hardly weak. The crux is still the transition into Vitruvian anyway.

Richie Crouch

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#26 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 03:25:19 pm
Clearly 8A, It adds at least 2 grades to the stand which is bottom end 7C, and is a lot harder than Art of Self Destruction at Woodwell. I didn't realise it was down as 7C+ either :o

nik at work

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#27 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 07:55:54 pm
I did it without the going out left cheaty lanksters stuff  ;) and it felt proper 8A to me. I'd agree with others, defo not 7C+. Maybe the toe-hook thing makes it soft 8A, but a soft 8A can just be a soft 8A rather than a nails 7C+.

Greg C

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#28 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 08:52:07 pm
That's all good enough for me. Your wish is my command:



Iron Man is officially reinstated to 8a.  ;)
I have added the stuff done in November and December to the lists too.

http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf

Also, I've updated the "Top 5o" list: http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html

Open to suggested alterations for this...

Jaspersharpe

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#29 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 24, 2009, 08:58:23 am
I'm just amazed Dense hasn't posted on this thread.

c.j.d.

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#30 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 24, 2009, 09:21:48 pm
Hey Greg - whats that one at St B's your on - looks cool.  Maybe in touch for a visit soon.

tomtom

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#31 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 03:55:00 pm
A mini thread resurrection...

I was out at Runcorn Heath with Andy Popp this lunchtime - and whilst (both) failing on a 7A+ > 7B+ depending in height arete, Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple) and its something I have always aspired to - and having scraped 7C earlier in the year feel its vaguely within range (albeit long range!)...

So setting this as a long term target (within 12-24 months) we both started talking about Iron Man at Trowbarrow (Stubbs had mentioned this to us a while back) as a possible candidate... any thoughts on this as a good 8A to project? Of course it all depends on our abilities and relative strengths/weaknesses etc... but its often fairly well in condition, within striking range (for me 90min of manchester) and of course you can start with Vitruvian man (the 7C) then work in the sit to make it harder - which would seem like a sensible way to start. Or - any other/better suggestions.

Basically - whats the softest touch 8A within range? ;)

Richie Crouch

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#32 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:01:33 pm
Backhand roof (non original version) into flying finish at Woodwell o'ert road is quite steady if you have decent hip flexibility and a few pads. Not far from trowbarrow either, so you could go work on both and see how you get on. It won't be 'in' for more of the year than iron man though but stays dry quite well once o'ert dries out.

GCW

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#33 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:34:00 pm
so you could go work on both

What would Gaskins say????   :spank:

tommytwotone

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#34 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:42:52 pm
Depending on your testicular capacity I gather that Pebbledash is still in need of a repeat!




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#35 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:44:01 pm
Didn't Nik do that years ago?

tomtom

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#36 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:45:44 pm
I have small balls and inflexible hips! fnarr..

andy popp

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#37 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:50:18 pm
Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple)

As if I'd be so shallow! The very thought of it ...

Anyway,  now my preposterous daydreams have been well and truly outed I will gladly accept all the help I can get.

tomtom

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#38 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:55:52 pm
Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple)

As if I'd be so shallow! The very thought of it ...

Anyway,  now my preposterous daydreams have been well and truly outed I will gladly accept all the help I can get.

:D

(hope you don't mind!)

Doylo

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#39 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 07:33:51 pm
Backhand roof (non original version) into flying finish at Woodwell o'ert road is quite steady if you have decent hip flexibility and a few pads. Not far from trowbarrow either, so you could go work on both and see how you get on. It won't be 'in' for more of the year than iron man though but stays dry quite well once o'ert dries out.

Is this really soft 8a!?

nik at work

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#40 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 08:46:21 pm
Didn't Nik do that years ago?
Nope, I had a play on a rope years and years before Nigel did the  F.A. But have not done it. Isn't Iron Man considered rather soft 8a (7c+ really...) by "the masses"? Not saying I agree, just saying like.

willackers

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#41 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 09:01:01 pm
Zoo York
Traci Lords
Sabotage

Proper boulder problems, proper good.

ducko

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#42 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 11:42:17 pm
Will Mallory boulder it is 8a and v good
Cross therapy
Caseg groove sit

turnipturned

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#43 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 21, 2013, 12:06:37 am
Best 8a's I have done in the UK

Prep H (debatable grade)
Jason's roof (debatable grade)
Sideliner
Sole fusion
Will
Grand Opera Sit
Chaismata
Peckitts problem (best 8a I have done on the slime)
Metronome
Requiem for a dream (access issues)
Supersede sds
The end is nigh
Special cases (8a/8a+)
Zoo York

Good spread across the country for you.

Plenty more I haven't done!

If you are Yorkshire bound I would say there is some great 7c+ to do (some are probably more 8a) Ben's Groove, Underworld, Curious yellow (I thought it was 8a because I am 5 foot and a peanut) heaven in your hands.....


 

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