UKBouldering.com

Inspiring 8A's (Read 18219 times)

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:24:35 pm
I'm almost over climbing for numbers but I'll admit that I find 8A inspiring and as such it's a long term ambition of mine.  I'm not quite shallow enough to be inspired by a number alone so need the added incentive of trying to do something that's actually quite good – hence asking for suggestions.  I suppose I'm just looking for things that have good line and movement.  Something with a good amount of moves for an 8A experience. ie. not a link up of easier problems or a longer traverse.  Something fairly steep I think so the holds aren't too unpleasant.  Limestone, grit or mountain rocks anywhere in yorkshire, the lakes, the peak or wales or even the County would all qualify.  I'm a good way off that standard at the moment but it would be useful to see some good quality suggestions to aspire to in the coming year(s).
Cheers

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3092
  • Karma: +150/-5
#1 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:44:54 pm
Careless Torque
Ironman @ trowbarrow
Jason's Roof @ Crookrise

Dunno if the UK is the land of inspiring Font 8a boulder problems, best to be shallow and look for the soft/popular ones. Press low right?

dave

  • Guest
#2 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:46:35 pm
river of life?

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
#3 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:59:34 pm
Quote
Careless Torque
inspiring alright, thought it was 8A+? not sure I'll ever be able to get my foot up like that though...
Quote
Ironman @ trowbarrow
good call, likely candidate
Quote
Jason's Roof @ Crookrise
I thought of that one as I was writing the post.  Isn't it 7C+ now though?  Never even been to look at it but has a good rep.
Quote
Dunno if the UK is the land of inspiring Font 8a boulder problems
That's what I thought/have found so far so thought I'd ask....

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#4 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:14:35 pm
Will.
Help the young sitter

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
#5 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:28:17 pm
what's Will?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29285
  • Karma: +635/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#6 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:30:49 pm
Prob in N Wales somewhere. Looks ace

Sure you know of this but if not


http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/

Plenty of inspiration

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#7 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:36:26 pm
Its at the Mallory boulder, unrepeated but very good, gets 7c+ though! (is prob 8a)

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
#8 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:39:00 pm

Sure you know of this but if not


http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/

Plenty of inspiration

I didn't, nice one!  The ticklists on there give all the inspiration I need, thanks alot.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#9 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:54:38 pm
Press low right?

That's not soft for 7C+.

Whyatt

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 191
  • Karma: +9/-0
#10 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 08:58:47 pm
Jerrys problem at the sheep pen boulders N wales
Clyde at parisellas cave N wales
Ride the wild smuff N wales really good line crimpy and powerful a present from mule

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#11 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 10:54:22 pm
Jerrys problem at the sheep pen boulders N wales
Clyde at parisellas cave N wales
Ride the wild smuff N wales really good line crimpy and powerful a present from mule

Ha ha nice one oracle, 7c+, 8a+ and 7c+ more like

Stubbs

  • Guest
#12 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 11:03:22 pm
Zoo York (if it's ever dry again). Best 8A on grit that's not actually a route?

superfurrymonkey

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 779
  • Karma: +28/-1
#13 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:25:45 am
Sway on Gallt Yr Ogof Ogwen valley  :thumbsup:

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3092
  • Karma: +150/-5
#14 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 09:30:36 am
Just had a look at that Elite UKB - Queen Kong @ Queens Crag has got to be one of the best lines in the UK at Font 8a I would have thought. Vide of the sitter here:

Whyatt

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 191
  • Karma: +9/-0
#15 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:25:03 am
Ha ha nice one oracle, 7c+, 8a+ and 7c+ more like


Yeah doylo nice work on Halfway! ill be back for pit and cavelife in tha new year keep em dry for us  ;)

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#16 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:29:25 am
Ironman @ trowbarrow

Now downgraded to 7c+.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#17 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:32:12 am
Zoo York would be top of my list if i was scratching at the balls of 8a.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4946
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#18 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:34:51 am
Ironman @ trowbarrow

Now downgraded to 7c+.

Really? None of the people who have actually done it took 7c+...?

Greg          
Jordan Buys
Nik             
Paul Smitton          
Dan Warren   
Ryan - Doesn't count.       

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#19 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:40:06 am
True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+  :shrug:

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#20 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:42:13 am
i second Queen Kong

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4946
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#21 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:43:16 am
True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+  :shrug:

I went back on it recently as i was trying the Pacman link, i still think its 8a, albeit soft.

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#22 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:06:06 pm
True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+  :shrug:

I went back on it recently as i was trying the Pacman link, i still think its 8a, albeit soft.

Funny one this. I was having a similar conversation with Tom Newberry about this problem the other day. I downgraded it on the list because I noticed 'everyone' said it was soft, and easier with the new toe-hook beta - which I have yet to try. However, Tom and Nick Clement have had numerous sessions on it and still not done it (as far as I know). I just presumed this toe-hook jazz made it much easier, as was implied on various 8a.nu scorecards and general mutterings? Perhaps not. I'm happy to bump it back up to 8a...

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#23 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:20:54 pm
While I'm here I'm going to do some shameless pimping of my own (relevant) problem:



This is one of the best 8a's (and boulders) I have seen in the UK.... well until someone downgrades it at least.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#24 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:23:12 pm
Zoo york and Queen Kong both look fantastic, but neither of them are ever going to be dry again!  :'(

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4946
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#25 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 02:51:28 pm
I just presumed this toe-hook jazz made it much easier, as was implied on various 8a.nu scorecards and general mutterings? Perhaps not. I'm happy to bump it back up to 8a...

I think you should  ;) Newberry or Clement are hardly weak. The crux is still the transition into Vitruvian anyway.

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#26 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 03:25:19 pm
Clearly 8A, It adds at least 2 grades to the stand which is bottom end 7C, and is a lot harder than Art of Self Destruction at Woodwell. I didn't realise it was down as 7C+ either :o

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3590
  • Karma: +312/-2
#27 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 07:55:54 pm
I did it without the going out left cheaty lanksters stuff  ;) and it felt proper 8A to me. I'd agree with others, defo not 7C+. Maybe the toe-hook thing makes it soft 8A, but a soft 8A can just be a soft 8A rather than a nails 7C+.

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#28 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 08:52:07 pm
That's all good enough for me. Your wish is my command:



Iron Man is officially reinstated to 8a.  ;)
I have added the stuff done in November and December to the lists too.

http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf

Also, I've updated the "Top 5o" list: http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html

Open to suggested alterations for this...

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#29 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 24, 2009, 08:58:23 am
I'm just amazed Dense hasn't posted on this thread.

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
#30 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 24, 2009, 09:21:48 pm
Hey Greg - whats that one at St B's your on - looks cool.  Maybe in touch for a visit soon.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20289
  • Karma: +642/-11
#31 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 03:55:00 pm
A mini thread resurrection...

I was out at Runcorn Heath with Andy Popp this lunchtime - and whilst (both) failing on a 7A+ > 7B+ depending in height arete, Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple) and its something I have always aspired to - and having scraped 7C earlier in the year feel its vaguely within range (albeit long range!)...

So setting this as a long term target (within 12-24 months) we both started talking about Iron Man at Trowbarrow (Stubbs had mentioned this to us a while back) as a possible candidate... any thoughts on this as a good 8A to project? Of course it all depends on our abilities and relative strengths/weaknesses etc... but its often fairly well in condition, within striking range (for me 90min of manchester) and of course you can start with Vitruvian man (the 7C) then work in the sit to make it harder - which would seem like a sensible way to start. Or - any other/better suggestions.

Basically - whats the softest touch 8A within range? ;)

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#32 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:01:33 pm
Backhand roof (non original version) into flying finish at Woodwell o'ert road is quite steady if you have decent hip flexibility and a few pads. Not far from trowbarrow either, so you could go work on both and see how you get on. It won't be 'in' for more of the year than iron man though but stays dry quite well once o'ert dries out.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#33 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:34:00 pm
so you could go work on both

What would Gaskins say????   :spank:

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3637
  • Karma: +200/-3
#34 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:42:52 pm
Depending on your testicular capacity I gather that Pebbledash is still in need of a repeat!




GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#35 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:44:01 pm
Didn't Nik do that years ago?

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20289
  • Karma: +642/-11
#36 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:45:44 pm
I have small balls and inflexible hips! fnarr..

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5545
  • Karma: +347/-5
#37 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:50:18 pm
Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple)

As if I'd be so shallow! The very thought of it ...

Anyway,  now my preposterous daydreams have been well and truly outed I will gladly accept all the help I can get.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20289
  • Karma: +642/-11
#38 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 04:55:52 pm
Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple)

As if I'd be so shallow! The very thought of it ...

Anyway,  now my preposterous daydreams have been well and truly outed I will gladly accept all the help I can get.

:D

(hope you don't mind!)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#39 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 07:33:51 pm
Backhand roof (non original version) into flying finish at Woodwell o'ert road is quite steady if you have decent hip flexibility and a few pads. Not far from trowbarrow either, so you could go work on both and see how you get on. It won't be 'in' for more of the year than iron man though but stays dry quite well once o'ert dries out.

Is this really soft 8a!?

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3590
  • Karma: +312/-2
#40 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 08:46:21 pm
Didn't Nik do that years ago?
Nope, I had a play on a rope years and years before Nigel did the  F.A. But have not done it. Isn't Iron Man considered rather soft 8a (7c+ really...) by "the masses"? Not saying I agree, just saying like.

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 870
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#41 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 09:01:01 pm
Zoo York
Traci Lords
Sabotage

Proper boulder problems, proper good.

ducko

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 750
  • Karma: +39/-6
#42 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 20, 2013, 11:42:17 pm
Will Mallory boulder it is 8a and v good
Cross therapy
Caseg groove sit

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 717
  • Karma: +108/-1
#43 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 21, 2013, 12:06:37 am
Best 8a's I have done in the UK

Prep H (debatable grade)
Jason's roof (debatable grade)
Sideliner
Sole fusion
Will
Grand Opera Sit
Chaismata
Peckitts problem (best 8a I have done on the slime)
Metronome
Requiem for a dream (access issues)
Supersede sds
The end is nigh
Special cases (8a/8a+)
Zoo York

Good spread across the country for you.

Plenty more I haven't done!

If you are Yorkshire bound I would say there is some great 7c+ to do (some are probably more 8a) Ben's Groove, Underworld, Curious yellow (I thought it was 8a because I am 5 foot and a peanut) heaven in your hands.....


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal