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Inspiring 8A's (Read 18232 times)

Steve R

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Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:24:35 pm
I'm almost over climbing for numbers but I'll admit that I find 8A inspiring and as such it's a long term ambition of mine.  I'm not quite shallow enough to be inspired by a number alone so need the added incentive of trying to do something that's actually quite good – hence asking for suggestions.  I suppose I'm just looking for things that have good line and movement.  Something with a good amount of moves for an 8A experience. ie. not a link up of easier problems or a longer traverse.  Something fairly steep I think so the holds aren't too unpleasant.  Limestone, grit or mountain rocks anywhere in yorkshire, the lakes, the peak or wales or even the County would all qualify.  I'm a good way off that standard at the moment but it would be useful to see some good quality suggestions to aspire to in the coming year(s).
Cheers

T_B

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#1 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:44:54 pm
Careless Torque
Ironman @ trowbarrow
Jason's Roof @ Crookrise

Dunno if the UK is the land of inspiring Font 8a boulder problems, best to be shallow and look for the soft/popular ones. Press low right?

dave

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#2 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:46:35 pm
river of life?

Steve R

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#3 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 05:59:34 pm
Quote
Careless Torque
inspiring alright, thought it was 8A+? not sure I'll ever be able to get my foot up like that though...
Quote
Ironman @ trowbarrow
good call, likely candidate
Quote
Jason's Roof @ Crookrise
I thought of that one as I was writing the post.  Isn't it 7C+ now though?  Never even been to look at it but has a good rep.
Quote
Dunno if the UK is the land of inspiring Font 8a boulder problems
That's what I thought/have found so far so thought I'd ask....

cofe

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#4 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:14:35 pm
Will.
Help the young sitter

Steve R

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#5 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:28:17 pm
what's Will?

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:30:49 pm
Prob in N Wales somewhere. Looks ace

Sure you know of this but if not


http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/

Plenty of inspiration

Doylo

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#7 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:36:26 pm
Its at the Mallory boulder, unrepeated but very good, gets 7c+ though! (is prob 8a)

Steve R

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#8 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:39:00 pm

Sure you know of this but if not


http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/

Plenty of inspiration

I didn't, nice one!  The ticklists on there give all the inspiration I need, thanks alot.

Jaspersharpe

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#9 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 06:54:38 pm
Press low right?

That's not soft for 7C+.

Whyatt

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#10 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 08:58:47 pm
Jerrys problem at the sheep pen boulders N wales
Clyde at parisellas cave N wales
Ride the wild smuff N wales really good line crimpy and powerful a present from mule

Doylo

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#11 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 10:54:22 pm
Jerrys problem at the sheep pen boulders N wales
Clyde at parisellas cave N wales
Ride the wild smuff N wales really good line crimpy and powerful a present from mule

Ha ha nice one oracle, 7c+, 8a+ and 7c+ more like

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#12 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 22, 2009, 11:03:22 pm
Zoo York (if it's ever dry again). Best 8A on grit that's not actually a route?

superfurrymonkey

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#13 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:25:45 am
Sway on Gallt Yr Ogof Ogwen valley  :thumbsup:

T_B

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#14 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 09:30:36 am
Just had a look at that Elite UKB - Queen Kong @ Queens Crag has got to be one of the best lines in the UK at Font 8a I would have thought. Vide of the sitter here:

Whyatt

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#15 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:25:03 am
Ha ha nice one oracle, 7c+, 8a+ and 7c+ more like


Yeah doylo nice work on Halfway! ill be back for pit and cavelife in tha new year keep em dry for us  ;)

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#16 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:29:25 am
Ironman @ trowbarrow

Now downgraded to 7c+.

cofe

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#17 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:32:12 am
Zoo York would be top of my list if i was scratching at the balls of 8a.

Adam Lincoln

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#18 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:34:51 am
Ironman @ trowbarrow

Now downgraded to 7c+.

Really? None of the people who have actually done it took 7c+...?

Greg          
Jordan Buys
Nik             
Paul Smitton          
Dan Warren   
Ryan - Doesn't count.       

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#19 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:40:06 am
True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+  :shrug:

Doylo

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#20 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:42:13 am
i second Queen Kong

Adam Lincoln

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#21 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 10:43:16 am
True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+  :shrug:

I went back on it recently as i was trying the Pacman link, i still think its 8a, albeit soft.

Greg C

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#22 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:06:06 pm
True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+  :shrug:

I went back on it recently as i was trying the Pacman link, i still think its 8a, albeit soft.

Funny one this. I was having a similar conversation with Tom Newberry about this problem the other day. I downgraded it on the list because I noticed 'everyone' said it was soft, and easier with the new toe-hook beta - which I have yet to try. However, Tom and Nick Clement have had numerous sessions on it and still not done it (as far as I know). I just presumed this toe-hook jazz made it much easier, as was implied on various 8a.nu scorecards and general mutterings? Perhaps not. I'm happy to bump it back up to 8a...

Greg C

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#23 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:20:54 pm
While I'm here I'm going to do some shameless pimping of my own (relevant) problem:



This is one of the best 8a's (and boulders) I have seen in the UK.... well until someone downgrades it at least.

andy_e

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#24 Re: Inspiring 8A's
December 23, 2009, 12:23:12 pm
Zoo york and Queen Kong both look fantastic, but neither of them are ever going to be dry again!  :'(

 

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