Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights

[Will Hunt]

There are various standard placements for each set of holds and then people have made various problems based on those. Each hold has a "North arrow" on it so if you've built a to-spec Moon Board you can orientate the holds according to the standard placement quite accurately. Some of the problems in the database will use holds from one, two, or all three of the individual sets of holds.

So you do need all three sets of holds and maybe to change round the holds to play?

My understanding is that if you wanted to climb every single problem then you would need to have all three sets of holds and would need to arrange them in various different ways.
However, if you only had one set of holds then there should be plenty of options still open to you - those problems which climb using only the particular set of holds that you bought. I'm afraid that's where my knowledge runs out. I couldn't advise you on the % split between problems that use the various combinations of hold sets A/B/C/AB/AC/BC/ABC.

Hopefully you could tell the app which sets of holds you had, and what standard arrangement you had them set up in, and it would filter the problems accordingly and show you only the ones you could climb. Then you could sort them by grade/votes on quality etc

 

[tim palmer]

As far as I can tell no one you are asking actually has a Moonboard with LEDs themselves to be able to answer your question.

You could try installing the application (for free) to see if the database holds the stated number of problems you are querying.

Failing that try the horses mouth at @moonclimbing. If he doesn't know no one else will.

I am seriously procrastinating here, it would appear that if you turn on all the hold sets on the app, presumably unlocking all possible problems, there is about 160 problems.

 

[cha1n]

Ben's a business man, he obviously thinks he'll be able to sell a few, perhaps climbing walls is his target market.

You're too smart for your own good James. TCA have just announced they're getting one fitted on the 20th over fb. I'll report back after I've had a play.

 

[chris20]

As far as I can tell no one you are asking actually has a Moonboard with LEDs themselves to be able to answer your question.

You could try installing the application (for free) to see if the database holds the stated number of problems you are querying.

Failing that try the horses mouth at @moonclimbing. If he doesn't know no one else will.

I am seriously procrastinating here, it would appear that if you turn on all the hold sets on the app, presumably unlocking all possible problems, there is about 160 problems.

On the archive section of the moonboard website there are alternative setups for the different hold sets which looks like it'll give you more problems

 

[tim palmer]

As far as I can tell no one you are asking actually has a Moonboard with LEDs themselves to be able to answer your question.

You could try installing the application (for free) to see if the database holds the stated number of problems you are querying.

Failing that try the horses mouth at @moonclimbing. If he doesn't know no one else will.

I am seriously procrastinating here, it would appear that if you turn on all the hold sets on the app, presumably unlocking all possible problems, there is about 160 problems.

On the archive section of the moonboard website there are alternative setups for the different hold sets which looks like it'll give you more problems

Ah well spotted, but they don't appear to be on the app….. presumably will be added at a later date, seems a little disingenuous to me but hey ho, mystery solved.

 

[cha1n]

Dave, T_B, what's the reason nobody uses the moonboard (except Ben)? I've heard the holds aren't great on the joints/skin, the rest of it seems like a really good system.

 

[lagerstarfish]

I still think a progammable laser projector might be a more flexible option - and allow for many more holds to be put on the wall

create a JPEG for each problem (use a photo of the wall as a background template with corner markers to get alignment perfect)

https://www.chinavasion.com/china/wholesale/Electronic_Gadgets/Laser_Gadgets/Programmable_Laser_Light_Show_System_My_Effect_II_-_Red_Green_and_Purple_Laser_Custom_Annimations/

 

[dave]

Dave, T_B, what's the reason nobody uses the moonboard (except Ben)? I've heard the holds aren't great on the joints/skin, the rest of it seems like a really good system.

Other people's opinions might vary, but the black and white sets of holds I really don't like. The texture is much coarser than most other modern holds, and the pockets in there are about the sharpest indoor pockets I've ever seen. The older yellow set are much better but there's still some sharp shockers in there. The whole concept would work better IMO with guest holds which are nicer.

Plus, it's hard to compete with a 23year old board covered with polished '90s bendcrete holds, sawn-up banister rails, and disintegrating bits of wood pulled out of skips.

 

[cha1n]

Thanks Dave, that sort of echos what I've heard. Now getting twitchy about this replacing the woody at TCA, which is an excellent punter level board...

 

[Will Hunt]

I have the yellow set and generally like them. Two complaints: its ALL crimps; there are a small few of them that are ridiculously, outrageously tweaky (that three finger horn thing, you know the one, who the fuck's idea was that?)

 

[a dense loner]

The white and black holds are perfect for the warmer weather, seem a bit coarser.

 

[Fadanoid]

I have a moonboard in my garden built to the specs.

I only have the Black and white holds, The texture is a bit coarse but to be honest I think the angle demands a bit of texture so I can hold on to the bloody things. Yes some of the pockets are a bit sharp, but you get used to them.

I won't be able to put the leds on, whilst its weatherproof I worry that over time the damp weather/fog/mist. It would make like easier but I'm managing fine just looking at my phone and seeing the sequence on that.

The only negative about the moonboard is the frigging sandbagging of grades by certain climbers. I honestly feel that if you can't grade something properly don't post it. These arent 8b/8c problems that are going to start a big debate in magazines and on website forums if they are a bit out. It just gives the impression that you want people to think that you are a beast that climbs at such a level they have forgotten what 6a-6c feels like, when in actual fact you are posting 7a-7b problems max and calling all of them 6a.

Ahhh, i feel better for that.

 

[Three Nine]

Thanks Dave, that sort of echos what I've heard. Now getting twitchy about this replacing the woody at TCA, which is an excellent punter level board...

It is, and it wont trash your skin/tendons like a moon board. Please please don't just keep it to yourself, email/pester TCA and get your chums to do it too. I have done so, but they'll only take notice if lots of people bother to get in contact.

 

[cha1n]

Sorry 39, if past decisions are anything to go by, then it's a done deal (even more likely seeing as the thing is set to be installed in less than 2 weeks). All we can hope is that the board is moved elsewhere. If not, then hey ho, at least there is a training board, even if the holds aren't ideal. It's not like in Sheffield where you actually need your skin for the grit!

 

[Duma]

copied over from powerclub...

I know, not happy about seeing it go (although having said that I'm hopeful it may stay in one form or another).

Please email Paul and let him know!!

FWIW (and Paul is on here very occasionally so may reply himself) I saw him this morning when stripping the steep circuit board and they're currently mulling making a less steep woody on the board immediately to the left (ie the old mirrorboard)

Given the relatively low hold density on the MB do you think it'd be possible to add further holds between the MB positions?

 

[Hugh]

copied over from powerclub...

I know, not happy about seeing it go (although having said that I'm hopeful it may stay in one form or another).

Please email Paul and let him know!!

FWIW (and Paul is on here very occasionally so may reply himself) I saw him this morning when stripping the steep circuit board and they're currently mulling making a less steep woody on the board immediately to the left (ie the old mirrorboard)

Given the relatively low hold density on the MB do you think it'd be possible to add further holds between the MB positions?

Hmm, that's a start, although the old mirror board is really not steep enough to make it useful (personally speaking).

I had the same thought about adding holds; can't really comment as it's been a long while since I've seen one in the flesh, but it certainly looks like stuff could be squeezed in.

 

[cha1n]

I think there are additional holes drilled to hold the LEDs, so probably a no regarding additional holds. I suppose it's just a case of waiting to see what happens, it's certainly a negative that the existing woody has no system being used to log people's climbs and without having other people's problems to try it can get a bit dull. I think the feedback has been mixed enough that I'm willing to be open minded regarding the new board (seeing as it's happening regardless of what everyone thinks).

In reality, the woody users are hardly the people putting the most money into TCAs pockets and it is a business after all.

 

[Duma]

what happened to the woody book?

 

[Sasquatch]

What a frickin brilliant innovation - especially for those like me befuddled when confronted with a woodie with an immediate desire to run for the hills

I'm curious if it was Saquatch's mate Chad who first did this out in Alaska that has stimulated its subsequent development and incorporation into the official Moon Board.

Saquatch's post about it here in the forum bringing attention to it is dated the same as a post on the Moon Blog about it. Both are 16th January 2015.

Indeed it was my mate Chad who developed the LED system. The app was done by the Moon guys.

We have a great group using it now and we have sessions every Thursday evening. The board/holds/problems are all a bit funky to get used to, but I know we have all learned alot from using it and gotten far stronger. So far we have learned to like most of the holds on the board. They're all very different so they force you to climb differently.

I have a moonboard in my garden built to the specs.

I only have the Black and white holds, The texture is a bit coarse but to be honest I think the angle demands a bit of texture so I can hold on to the bloody things. Yes some of the pockets are a bit sharp, but you get used to them.

I won't be able to put the leds on, whilst its weatherproof I worry that over time the damp weather/fog/mist. It would make like easier but I'm managing fine just looking at my phone and seeing the sequence on that.

The only negative about the moonboard is the frigging sandbagging of grades by certain climbers. I honestly feel that if you can't grade something properly don't post it. These arent 8b/8c problems that are going to start a big debate in magazines and on website forums if they are a bit out. It just gives the impression that you want people to think that you are a beast that climbs at such a level they have forgotten what 6a-6c feels like, when in actual fact you are posting 7a-7b problems max and calling all of them 6a.

Ahhh, i feel better for that.

Indeed they are sandbagged as S%^&. We have just decided that the grades are fictional and in no way relate to outdoor climbing. One issue that we are having though is that two of the guys we climb with set at the local wall and the grades at the local wall have started to get a bit sandbagged as well. We have been adding new problems and just tried to be consistent with the sandbagged versions.

 

[Duma]

Just had a first play on tcas. Pretty good actually, and they've put a woody on the less steep board next to it which looks better than I thought one on this board would. Lights work well too, well done sasquatch and friends.